h2b crx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bejita »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the hell are you talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most H2B kits make you have to prop up the hood in the back or the engine will hit the hood. Don't know if thats true or not about that kit.
Most H2B kits make you have to prop up the hood in the back or the engine will hit the hood. Don't know if thats true or not about that kit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mengy007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all, what engine are you talking about? Second, have you tried searching?</TD></TR></TABLE>
h2b= h22+ B series tranny
There are adaptor plates/ kits made by diff companies. OP Wants to know if anyone has had any experience with that particular kit and if you need to prop up the hood in the back.
h2b= h22+ B series tranny
There are adaptor plates/ kits made by diff companies. OP Wants to know if anyone has had any experience with that particular kit and if you need to prop up the hood in the back.
what you are talking about is in the EG chassis. If you are using it in any other chassis like the EF or EK, you have to make your own mounts. Its up to you how high you want to have the engine/trans to situp. You have to fabricate the mounts if using an EF at this time. There are no bolt on kits for the EF as for now with the Evolution Industries kit.
oh and the Evolution kit is now approved by NHRA, IDRC and BOTI for their racing series for competition.
oh and the Evolution kit is now approved by NHRA, IDRC and BOTI for their racing series for competition.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exospeedAMcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what you are talking about is in the EG chassis. If you are using it in any other chassis like the EF or EK, you have to make your own mounts. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What ? No you don't, you use b series mounts. As far as I saw, the h2b kit makes it so you can't close your hood, I could be wrong. Check out this thread and ask in there
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1806590
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1638988
What ? No you don't, you use b series mounts. As far as I saw, the h2b kit makes it so you can't close your hood, I could be wrong. Check out this thread and ask in there
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1806590
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1638988
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oh mah bad. I havent kept up with the Swap in an EF. I just know of the EG and EK H2B swaps.
I guess you can use stock B-series mounts from what he says.
I guess you can use stock B-series mounts from what he says.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exospeedAMcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh mah bad. I havent kept up with the Swap in an EF. I just know of the EG and EK H2B swaps.
I guess you can use stock B-series mounts from what he says.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Come on noob
I guess you can use stock B-series mounts from what he says.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Come on noob
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H2B swap in the EF chassis is by far the hardest chassis to work with over the EG and DC...EF's bay just isn't big enough...
H2B in a EF your going to want the following...
Remove balance shaft and gear to get the necessary clearance from frame to crank pulley. Possibly mod the timing belt cover (cut up) or not run a timing belt cover. Modify B series EF mounts. Make some hood props...and possibly a nice sledge hammer for that firewall...and a good grinder for that block so the B series midshaft clears...Stock cross member wont work with the swap...below is what we offer
ESP H or D series alternator/tensioner kit 1/2" over
ESP EF H22A Traction Bar System
H2B in a EF your going to want the following...
Remove balance shaft and gear to get the necessary clearance from frame to crank pulley. Possibly mod the timing belt cover (cut up) or not run a timing belt cover. Modify B series EF mounts. Make some hood props...and possibly a nice sledge hammer for that firewall...and a good grinder for that block so the B series midshaft clears...Stock cross member wont work with the swap...below is what we offer
ESP H or D series alternator/tensioner kit 1/2" over
ESP EF H22A Traction Bar System
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP-net »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Modify B series EF mounts
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What has to be done ? And, I really thought you had some useful information, till I saw the advertising at the end, so I never know what to really expect when you post, seems like every other post from you is advertising, or just disrespecting another companies product.
Bottom line is the h2b kit lets you use a b series tranny, which is a lot better. You left that out
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What has to be done ? And, I really thought you had some useful information, till I saw the advertising at the end, so I never know what to really expect when you post, seems like every other post from you is advertising, or just disrespecting another companies product.
Bottom line is the h2b kit lets you use a b series tranny, which is a lot better. You left that out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Come on noob
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha. so much info out there man, hard to keep up and store over 14 yrs of Honda info. lol
Come on noob
</TD></TR></TABLE>haha. so much info out there man, hard to keep up and store over 14 yrs of Honda info. lol
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Out products just happens to be what the H2B EF's use so I know what works and what doesn't...
EF B series tranny mount either Hydro or Cable mount (different) stays the same
EF B series rear mount should stay in the same location or real close and the driver mount I believe is the one that needs the most modifying to work with the H driver side bracket stud/bolt pattern...
EF B series tranny mount either Hydro or Cable mount (different) stays the same
EF B series rear mount should stay in the same location or real close and the driver mount I believe is the one that needs the most modifying to work with the H driver side bracket stud/bolt pattern...
Taken from there site, so maybe someone who knows about this subject will chime in.
The H2B kit is a drag inspired concept aimed for existing B-series racers what have tapped out their builds. The H2B adapts any H or F-series engine with complete and unmodified manual B-series drive-train without the use of customized mounts, shift linkage, or axles.
The H2B kit is a drag inspired concept aimed for existing B-series racers what have tapped out their builds. The H2B adapts any H or F-series engine with complete and unmodified manual B-series drive-train without the use of customized mounts, shift linkage, or axles.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Taken from there site, so maybe someone who knows about this subject will chime in.
The H2B kit is a drag inspired concept aimed for existing B-series racers what have tapped out their builds. The H2B adapts any H or F-series engine with complete and unmodified manual B-series drive-train without the use of customized mounts, shift linkage, or axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right
Hood spacing is required on that chassis. It either shitty ground clearance or hood spacing, take your choice.
10lbs of **** in a 5lb bag.
The H2B kit is a drag inspired concept aimed for existing B-series racers what have tapped out their builds. The H2B adapts any H or F-series engine with complete and unmodified manual B-series drive-train without the use of customized mounts, shift linkage, or axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right
Hood spacing is required on that chassis. It either shitty ground clearance or hood spacing, take your choice.
10lbs of **** in a 5lb bag.
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