h22 -> f22 fuel rail...
can you use an h22 rail on an f22b1 ...?
I need a good fuel rail and I want to use a GE unit but they are only for the h22... anyone know if the injector spacing and bolts to hold it down are in the same place?
thanks.
I need a good fuel rail and I want to use a GE unit but they are only for the h22... anyone know if the injector spacing and bolts to hold it down are in the same place?
thanks.
I know aem list both the h22, h23, and f22 together in their application guide for their rails but I do not know if they use the floating mounts to bolt it down (which means you can move them around to fit).
anyone?
even if someone who has done a swap with stock rails on their f->h series swaps knows, please feel free to post up.
anyone?
even if someone who has done a swap with stock rails on their f->h series swaps knows, please feel free to post up.
What is the inner Diameter of the after-market rail you are looking at? I bored my stock F22B2 rail out to an inner diameter of 1/2". I didn't get any pics of the process but it is as "high flow" as the AEM 1/2" fuel rail. What benefits do the after-market ones actually have for the price they want? other than looking nice in different colors and A/N nitrous ports.
The wall thickness of the stock rail bored out is more than enough to hold well over 60 psi. If you want to go higher than 60 all you have to do is get an aluminum cap/plug welded to the end opposite the fuel line just for insurance that the stock plug doesn't blow
I am doing another one for a d15 this weekend. I will document this one if you think it's worth it? A local machine shop could probably do it for half the price of a Venom or AEM. Or your local machine shop can surprise you with what they can do some times. If they have no idea what your talking about go to there shop and show them what your looking for. They should be able to pressure test it as well.
Cheers
Edit.....
The one I did for my ITB's does work I tested it on my car before I painted it. pic can be seen here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1938405
Modified by GhostAccord at 2:07 PM 4/2/2007
The wall thickness of the stock rail bored out is more than enough to hold well over 60 psi. If you want to go higher than 60 all you have to do is get an aluminum cap/plug welded to the end opposite the fuel line just for insurance that the stock plug doesn't blow
I am doing another one for a d15 this weekend. I will document this one if you think it's worth it? A local machine shop could probably do it for half the price of a Venom or AEM. Or your local machine shop can surprise you with what they can do some times. If they have no idea what your talking about go to there shop and show them what your looking for. They should be able to pressure test it as well.Cheers
Edit.....
The one I did for my ITB's does work I tested it on my car before I painted it. pic can be seen here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1938405
Modified by GhostAccord at 2:07 PM 4/2/2007
i'd have to concur with GhostAccord . go to a local machineshop. you'll get just as good results with one they'll make as one you'd get from AEM or whatever. that, and you'll be able to put "custom bored fuel rail" on your list of modifications.
Thanks for the ideas and replies gents, I appreciate it greatly.
Honestly though, I actually like the GE one and am not worried about the money.
As well as I dont have the time to go to the local machine shop and deal with them on making something although I am sure they could... unfortunately it is not feasable for me at this moment though.
I also dont want to bore a stock rail because I an switching to an independant regulator (sx unit) and braided fuel line setup with AN fittings. So I would rather just adapt a premade off the shelf unit to my needs.
Agian I appreciate the replies greatly.
Honestly though, I actually like the GE one and am not worried about the money.
As well as I dont have the time to go to the local machine shop and deal with them on making something although I am sure they could... unfortunately it is not feasable for me at this moment though.
I also dont want to bore a stock rail because I an switching to an independant regulator (sx unit) and braided fuel line setup with AN fittings. So I would rather just adapt a premade off the shelf unit to my needs.
Agian I appreciate the replies greatly.
Ok, well then to answer your question quickly, AEM Fuel rails don't fit both. AEM makes 2 different Fuel rails for the H22/H23 and the F22 series motors
F22 Part number Item # AEM-25-106
H22 & H23 Part number Item # AEM-25-104
What year is your engine?
5th gen guessing buy your name. If you want to go AEM above is the part number your looking for.
F22 Part number Item # AEM-25-106
H22 & H23 Part number Item # AEM-25-104
What year is your engine?
5th gen guessing buy your name. If you want to go AEM above is the part number your looking for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know aem list both the h22, h23, and f22 together in their application guide for their rails </TD></TR></TABLE>
correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the H22, H23 and F22Ax fuel rails all have the banjo bolt fitting on the passenger side whereas the F22Bx fuel rails banjo bolt fitting is on the driver side.
Also, this thread...
http://www.accordinglydone.com...11176
states that the F22Bx fuel rail studs are spaced 3" apart and the H23 fuel rail studs are spaced 4.5" apart. The F22A6 and H23A1 IM's are almost the same thing, slight differences, so maybe the fuel rail studs are spaced the same and thats where they get the H22, H23, F22 from in the listing. Kinda like Hondata did with their manifold gasket, saying it was for H23/F22 when it was only for the F22Bx. Just a thought, I don't have any first have experience with AEM fuel rails.
correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the H22, H23 and F22Ax fuel rails all have the banjo bolt fitting on the passenger side whereas the F22Bx fuel rails banjo bolt fitting is on the driver side.
Also, this thread...
http://www.accordinglydone.com...11176
states that the F22Bx fuel rail studs are spaced 3" apart and the H23 fuel rail studs are spaced 4.5" apart. The F22A6 and H23A1 IM's are almost the same thing, slight differences, so maybe the fuel rail studs are spaced the same and thats where they get the H22, H23, F22 from in the listing. Kinda like Hondata did with their manifold gasket, saying it was for H23/F22 when it was only for the F22Bx. Just a thought, I don't have any first have experience with AEM fuel rails.
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I actually dont want AEM, I am trying to get a golden eagle one that will fit... hence my delima... oh well... I guess I will quit while I am ahead and just get something else.
The AEM-25-104 is the unit I was refering to in my second post... which includes the f22 found in the prelude s... which you are right had the banjo on the other side from what I know (which does not really matter cause I am making new fuel lines, nor will I use a banjo anymore). The stud spacing is the majority of my concerns.
Thanks for the posts.
Modified by twkdCD595 at 12:50 PM 4/2/2007
The AEM-25-104 is the unit I was refering to in my second post... which includes the f22 found in the prelude s... which you are right had the banjo on the other side from what I know (which does not really matter cause I am making new fuel lines, nor will I use a banjo anymore). The stud spacing is the majority of my concerns.
Thanks for the posts.
Modified by twkdCD595 at 12:50 PM 4/2/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my f22b1/2 rail did not fit my h22 manifold </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks...
what I needed to know.
I guess I will just have to figure out something else... maybe I will just sand the logo off the AEM rail.
thanks...
what I needed to know.
I guess I will just have to figure out something else... maybe I will just sand the logo off the AEM rail.
Ah a brand thing.....cool!
Well at least ya finally got the answer you were/probably weren't looking for, I missed that you didn't want AEM.....could have saved myself a few posts on that one
The world of "F"series motors is a very small one when it comes to parts I have found. That's why I like them and mod my own parts, they don't have any brands on them but my own......most times DNA
Well at least ya finally got the answer you were/probably weren't looking for, I missed that you didn't want AEM.....could have saved myself a few posts on that one
The world of "F"series motors is a very small one when it comes to parts I have found. That's why I like them and mod my own parts, they don't have any brands on them but my own......most times DNA
yeah I am not much of a brand name person... I am not opposed to some but I dont really care for some funky blue, red, or whatever colored shiny polished rail with a logo etched down the face side of it
yeah f22b1 is such an oddball... it makes modding more fun sometimes and others its just a pita.
I guess I cannot be too picky with such a lack of support for the f series cars.
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