OK, so i just got the car up and running recently and a little later than I wanted too. I have the Pinks All Out race this coming weekend and i'm in trouble. Out of maybe 10 runs, i got into 2nd once and that was babying it into gear at maybe 8000.

Both trips to the track I've been having problems getting into 2nd gear and a couple times it was tough to get in 3rd too. At first i just felt like it was just me being retarded and getting back into the feel of things. Now i'm feeling a little like it might be the trans or something like that. I haven't had any problems shifting below 5000rpms and all on the dyno and a day or normal driving (maybe 40 miles) no problems whatsoever. But around 9000, thats giving me problems.

Now, I'm using Torco 5w30 synthetic oil http://www.torcoracingoils.com...20oil in 5w30 in it, but i'm starting to feel like its just too thin to lubricate anything. Its almost feeling like a transmission with no fluid inside. I'm wondering if the fluid just does nothing at 9000rpms.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, I have some RGO that Torco supplied to me to use. http://www.torcoracingoils.com...bda83 in 80w90. I'm really really really tentative to use this as I feel it may be too thick, but if it solves my problems now, i'm all for it.

Does anyone have any good info on using 80w90 or the like in a honda trans?

Last question. can you put some sort of Dye in trans fluid so we can differentiate leaks. I'm wondering what sort of dyes wouldnt hurt.
Thank you
-Francisco


Modified by RPRacing at 10:05 PM 4/1/2007

 

ive heard the amsoil synchromesh is supposed to be really good for brass synchros... im gonna try it when i put mine back together

 

ive messed with 75w 140 in some of my trannys before not the best when its cold feels very nocthy going into gear but when it was warm it would go into gear like butter

 

Its most likely your clutch.

 

syncromesh works good for a quick fix but it clogges the syncros up if you use it lonh term

 

ok. on that note. I'm talking with a buddy right now. He thinks that too. Its a Brand New Comp Clutch Stage 4 Unsprung 6puck kit. Act flywheel fresh surface at .112" step.
He was saying the pressure plate may be faulty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive messed with 75w 140 in some of my trannys before not the best when its cold feels very nocthy going into gear but when it was warm it would go into gear like butter
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmmm, i may try this then. i mean, gotta experiment to learn what works.

 

also fill the tranny from the vss hole and put like 3qtz in it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok. on that note. I'm talking with a buddy right now. He thinks that too. Its a Brand New Comp Clutch Stage 4 Unsprung 6puck kit. Act flywheel fresh surface at .112" step.
He was saying the pressure plate may be faulty. </TD></TR></TABLE>I ran the ACT unsprung 6 puck with an Extreme PP. and I could not get it in gear when I went past 8500rpm.. I changed it to a ACT street strip clutch and it went in gear very easy even at 9500. I could not beleave the diff. that it made.

 

also, get someone to push in the clutch while u watch the engine/trans mating surface and make sure it isnt pressing apart at all i got mine into gear fine last yr w a dual diapraghm PP, unsprung 6 puck, shifting at 9500-9800

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran the ACT unsprung 6 puck with an Extreme PP. and I could not get it in gear when I went past 8500rpm.. I changed it to a ACT street strip clutch and it went in gear very easy even at 9500. I could not beleave the diff. that it made.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmmm, all last season i used ACT unsprung 6puck with stock pressure plates. Ate thrrough the plates withing 3-5 trips to the track but had plenty laying around from customer jobs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also fill the tranny from the vss hole and put like 3qtz in it</TD></TR></TABLE>
why 3? Also, i changed trans fluid last night after the first track trip to get the metal out after the trip and it was just taken apart so it might have little stuff running around. I popped open the helms today and it said 2.2L on fluid change and 2.6 at overhaul. why do you say 3?

 

It wasnt the disk. It was the PP's..

 

so far thats 2 votes for pressure plate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmmm, all last season i used ACT unsprung 6puck with stock pressure plates. Ate thrrough the plates withing 3-5 trips to the track but had plenty laying around from customer jobs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know what to tell you but I also use an ACT unsprung 6puck with stock pressure plate and I don't have any problems shifting at 9500 rpm.

 

i had a similar problem on my car, would grind or not go in not gear at high rpms, so i figured it was the clutch, ended it was a leaky master cylinder, so make sure you check your slave and master cylinder for any signs of fluid.

 

i wouldnt put anything in your tranny other then the honda mtf!

as for torco GREAT NO PERFECT oil for your engine just would only use honda mtf for the trans!

have tried all sorts of other gear oils and always problems like your talking about so i would just go back with honda mtf for your tranny!

and use the torco for your engine

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cimburke23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive heard the amsoil synchromesh is supposed to be really good for brass synchros... im gonna try it when i put mine back together </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I use.... I found it better than the Honda MTF that I use to run.

No buildup like others have claimed.

 

what is your engine mount set up? how much power?


when the motor torques a lot it makes it very difficult to get into gear, i had this problem going into 2nd gear as well when i was in a hurry swapping tranny's inbetween rounds and didnt put on the lower torque mount on the transmission side.


i personally feel its very important to run both top mounts, rear mount, and BOTH lower torque mounts.


if you are missing any mounts right now, this would be the easiest thing to test to see if its the problem

 

Joe, you don't run solid mounts? For some reason I thought you did....

 

when you put a new clutch in sometimes you have to adjust the mastercylinder throw, i had this problem, wouldn't shift at high rpm, sometimes the slave pushes too far , wich is what it sounds like to me, you have to adjust the nut on the master out,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is your engine mount set up? how much power?

when the motor torques a lot it makes it very difficult to get into gear, i had this problem going into 2nd gear as well when i was in a hurry swapping tranny's inbetween rounds and didnt put on the lower torque mount on the transmission side.

i personally feel its very important to run both top mounts, rear mount, and BOTH lower torque mounts.

if you are missing any mounts right now, this would be the easiest thing to test to see if its the problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

motor makes 220/156. I have all 5 mounts in. top 3 are Prothane, bottom 2 are avid. I dont think the linkage is binding up due to motor movement.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorMark &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you put a new clutch in sometimes you have to adjust the mastercylinder throw, i had this problem, wouldn't shift at high rpm, sometimes the slave pushes too far , wich is what it sounds like to me, you have to adjust the nut on the master out, </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll have to check the throw in the slave and see how far in or out its going. good call.

 

its really not something you can "see" more of an adjustment ,where does your clutch release is it high or low pedal? if its high it needs to be adjusted out for sure...eberything else being ok i would put money on this being the problem

 

Fran, have you tried Honda MTF? I been using it no problems, my old B16A I revved up to almost 11k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostfed.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fran, have you tried Honda MTF? I been using it no problems, my old B16A I revved up to almost 11k </TD></TR></TABLE>and what clutch were u using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOOSTIN1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and what clutch were u using?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Old old clutch was a Clutch Specialties 6 puck dual diaphragm and then I had a Competition Clutch Twin disc, I did have probs at the track BUT changed out the slave, master and lines all at the same time. No probs since. I was having issues with it needing to be bled in between rounds. Problem solved since