403's vs OEM cams at 7500 RPM.. thoughts?
I know it sounds like a dumb idea but here's my plan for now:
Rebuild my 93 B18a, rated at 140@6300 with:
Shotpeened rods,
stock crank, maybe knife-edged
p30 pistons for 11:1 compression
Crower valve springs, and retainers
headwork done by portflow
chip to remove rev limiter, or move it to 7500/8000.
spoon or Jun cam gears
B18C oil pump
Apexi AFC or FPR
reasons for staying with stock cams with Crower valvetrain:
-for now my teg is my daily driver, I want a good idle and still try to maintain a reasonable amount of low end torque and good MPG.
-Since my power and torque both peak around 6300, wouldn't it be reasonable to say that there may still be some usable power up to around 7500, given my engines new ability to rev that high?
-My ultimate plan will be a full on race set up with hondata stage 4 and crower 404's and building the valve train will make that easier in the future. but for now practicallity and pocketbook prevent that. This will only happen after I buy another daily driver.
Does this plan seem retarded to anyone?
anybody have other suggestions, besides FI or No2?
or
Rebuild my 93 B18a, rated at 140@6300 with:
Shotpeened rods,
stock crank, maybe knife-edged
p30 pistons for 11:1 compression
Crower valve springs, and retainers
headwork done by portflow
chip to remove rev limiter, or move it to 7500/8000.
spoon or Jun cam gears
B18C oil pump
Apexi AFC or FPR
reasons for staying with stock cams with Crower valvetrain:
-for now my teg is my daily driver, I want a good idle and still try to maintain a reasonable amount of low end torque and good MPG.
-Since my power and torque both peak around 6300, wouldn't it be reasonable to say that there may still be some usable power up to around 7500, given my engines new ability to rev that high?
-My ultimate plan will be a full on race set up with hondata stage 4 and crower 404's and building the valve train will make that easier in the future. but for now practicallity and pocketbook prevent that. This will only happen after I buy another daily driver.
Does this plan seem retarded to anyone?
anybody have other suggestions, besides FI or No2?
or
the stock cams fall flat on its *** after 6800rpm. reving them to 7500 or 8000rpm would accualy slow you down in a 1/4 mile
with the 403's you will notice a good pull to 7500rpm+ if you have a skunk2 manifold and bigger bore T/B to go with it.
the 403's have a good barable idle and could be better if you play around with the idle screw. i always recommend the 403's to everyone over the 404's because of the idle quality.
also the higher the compression ratio you go for the better the idle quality will be. right now i have a little over 11:1CR and it idles very close to stock with the 403's when comparing it to the stock 9.2:1CR.
good luck.
with the 403's you will notice a good pull to 7500rpm+ if you have a skunk2 manifold and bigger bore T/B to go with it.
the 403's have a good barable idle and could be better if you play around with the idle screw. i always recommend the 403's to everyone over the 404's because of the idle quality.
also the higher the compression ratio you go for the better the idle quality will be. right now i have a little over 11:1CR and it idles very close to stock with the 403's when comparing it to the stock 9.2:1CR.
good luck.
For roughly the same amount of $$$, here's another set-up:
B20
Endyn/Wiseco pistons
Endyn/Eagle rods
Skunk2 intake manifold
JG/Edelbrock header
Crower cams/valvesprings/retainers
Toda sprockets
(tuning)
Nothing against Tom/Portflow, but a non-VTEC head is not worth dropping $$$ into.
B20
Endyn/Wiseco pistons
Endyn/Eagle rods
Skunk2 intake manifold
JG/Edelbrock header
Crower cams/valvesprings/retainers
Toda sprockets
(tuning)
Nothing against Tom/Portflow, but a non-VTEC head is not worth dropping $$$ into.
thanks guys,
I know the 403's will give a pretty good idle, But I'm planning on doing some SCCA or other club racing and I'm thinking the 404's will be fine on a pure race car where I won't care about idle and I don't want to have to buy two sets of cams.
Although... I can see your point on higher compression. What do you think the idle would be like with 11:1, 404's and a little playing with cam timing? I'd even be willing to give up a few HP for street use and then change for track use.
Perhaps I could reduce overlap for street? waddayathink?
I know the 403's will give a pretty good idle, But I'm planning on doing some SCCA or other club racing and I'm thinking the 404's will be fine on a pure race car where I won't care about idle and I don't want to have to buy two sets of cams.
Although... I can see your point on higher compression. What do you think the idle would be like with 11:1, 404's and a little playing with cam timing? I'd even be willing to give up a few HP for street use and then change for track use.
Perhaps I could reduce overlap for street? waddayathink?
you can reduce the overlap with the 404s and make it idle pretty good but i think you would loose quite a bit of power which would make them almost eaqual to the 403's.
either cam is food it just repends on what you plan on useing them for. i have 403s and i wouldent change them for anything since it's my daily driver and the lumpy idle is hardly noticable.
either cam is food it just repends on what you plan on useing them for. i have 403s and i wouldent change them for anything since it's my daily driver and the lumpy idle is hardly noticable.
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