I'm sure that this has been covered before, I did try searching and didn't really find what I'm looking for. I've got a inline pro mani and a Precision SC34 T3/T4. I put studs in the manifold and am using nuts to secure the turbo. I put the red lock tight on the studs and on the nuts. I thought that I tighted the nuts down as tight as I could get them but, they keep coming loose. Is there a stronger strength lock tight out there or an actual torque on the nuts that I should be using. Any help would be great.

 

try lock washers

 

I'll try that.

 

thread lock? the liquid stuff? i stay away from that stuff if it's gonna be on the manifold and turbo. i'd use grade 8 bolts or heat treated ones just to be safe.

 

on my old inline pro, i had the stud kit along with lock washers and never had any problems. i should have done the same thing with the WG because i was always tightening those.

 

is yours the stainless version? i had the cast stainless model and i seemed to have less problems that other people.

 

is you downpipe braced to your motor anywhere?

 

flex pipes help too if u dont have one...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepinonacreeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is you downpipe braced to your motor anywhere?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good call your downpipe needs to braced just like the stock headers is..... the flex pipe is a very good ideal also both mods together with locking washers reduces vibration considerably which should stop the bolts from vibrating loose.

 

I run a longer bolt so I can put a lock washer and run double nuts on there so it won’t back off.... I had the same problems and that solved it

 

Make sure you evenly torque all the nuts down. If some are looser then other it would probably start backing out.

 

Drill holes in the bolt heads, then safetywire them, they won't back off until you take them out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greasemonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drill holes in the bolt heads, then safetywire them, they won't back off until you take them out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo. That's the ticket. Lock tite is ok, but some bolts/nuts will still losen up. This was happening all the damn time on my wg, so I did just like greasmonkey said, drilled some holes in the heads of the bolts and lock wired them. Been tight ever since.

Or you could get some nordlock lock washers. Very good stuff there!!

 

try http://www.stage8.com fasteners.
working well for me.

 

Try using Nylock nuts first. Cheap and easy.

If that still doesn't work, safety wire will work undoubtedly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try using Nylock nuts first. Cheap and easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahaha if these are the ones I am thinking they are, then good luck with that because the nylon shiot melts after the first heat cycle....

 

i just put a tack weld on each bolt head. I can still just break it loose with a wrench and i i have not had them back out since.

 

I'm using the SS inline pro manifold with studs. I just bought some lock washers today and I'm going to try to drill some holes in the nuts so I can try safety wiring them. If that doesn't work I'll try tack welding them. Anyways, thanks for everyones inputs!

 

You could try nord-lock washers. http://www.nord-lock.com Based off alot of info I read on here and other forums about lock washers from the majority doesnt work too well (reversing out / falling off) , since turbo manifolds arent the same may work for one car and not the other.

Nord Lock is sold on MCmastercarr website.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bingo. That's the ticket. Lock tite is ok, but some bolts/nuts will still losen up. This was happening all the damn time on my wg, so I did just like greasmonkey said, drilled some holes in the heads of the bolts and lock wired them. Been tight ever since.

Or you could get some nordlock lock washers. Very good stuff there!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could try nord-lock washers. http://www.nord-lock.com Based off alot of info I read on here and other forums about lock washers from the majority doesnt work too well (reversing out / falling off) , since turbo manifolds arent the same may work for one car and not the other.

Nord Lock is sold on MCmastercarr website.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mid knows what he is talkin about. These washers are good ish. Maybe if you tell me the stud diameter I might just be real nice and just ship you some for free. We have these here at my work. All I ask is for a ty.

 

Stud diameter is 1.25mm. I like people who feel like being nice and send out parts at everyone's favorite price! Thanks again for all of the help!

 

1.25mm? I think you mean thread pitch.

 

had the same problem i got lock nuts without the plastic in them. they look like the threads are messed up at the end almost like they crimped the end they go on tight but never loosened up

 

They also make what they call "jet nuts".They are similar to nylocks but they have a ss insert instead of nylon.These are designed for high heat.I have bought them at Yamaha bike shops in the past.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbinteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">had the same problem i got lock nuts without the plastic in them. they look like the threads are messed up at the end almost like they crimped the end they go on tight but never loosened up </TD></TR></TABLE>
These work, but sometimes they don't want to come off after a lot of heat cycles.