I recently ordered a Koni/GC suspension combo, and the shocks just came in last night. While I was looking over things, and also reviewing the Koni Install Sticky, I realized that I may have a problem.

I bought my CRX used and the previous owner swapped out the stock shocks to Monroe Sens-a-tracs which need replacing anyway. Anywho, the Monroes do not have the Brake Line retaining clip/ring that stock shocks have.

The Monroe shocks do have a bracket to mount the brake lines to, but it's more of a welded tab.

Any suggestions? I was considering breaking the tab off and using a large screw type hose clamp to tie it to the shock.

 

zip ties.

use two, one around the shock, the other around the first one and the brake line so you get more angle freedom.

 

Sounds good. Cant wait to throw these in. Other than retaining the brake line, those rings dont really do much else right?

 

well, they also set the height of the forks.

but youll want to drop the shocks further in the forks, so you wont be needing them anyway.

apparently, tightening them down by the pinch bolt is good enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, they also set the height of the forks.

but youll want to drop the shocks further in the forks, so you wont be needing them anyway.

apparently, tightening them down by the pinch bolt is good enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tyson is right. Just make sure to drop both of them into the fork at the same (or as close as possible) height and you won't have any problem. The dent in the side of the Koni shock is where the pinch bolt is "supposed" to go. I would probably lower the shock .5"-.75" past that...

Here is CRX lee's how too on mounting your koni's lower in the fork...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.

You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).

Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.

BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm getting the tophats from a friend, so i'm not too sure I want to drop the shocks deeper into the forks - I'm actually afraid of screwing up the indent or the depth and having my front end a skewed.

Just reread CRXLees instructions, okay, I just may try it then...