i read places it said that .5 v at idle and 4.5 v full throtle. now do i have to have the car on in order to set it? because at the moment there is no way i can give it full throtle with car being on.. tps is so off that car wants to blow up when i try to rev it full throtle...

 

you put your car in the on position and you open the throttle fully to measure the voltage

 

Turn the key to run, and measure the voltage. Go all the way from close to WOT, to make sure they is no large jumps in readings

 

what is the voltage supposed to be reading? and any ideas where i put the + and - in order to get the reading

 

it is only 3 wires on the sensor, 0 volt, signal and 5 volt. should put your - to 0 Volt, and + on the signal

 

i thought u put the black lead off the dvom to a battery or body ground

 

yea, u could, 0V is a filtered ground, but by check with the 0V, u can also check if it is a problem with the 0V channel. it will work either way. for us, we always check the voltage either in the ecu(standalone) or check direct with the signal and 0V

 

Ok so you guys have pretty much told us what to check for. But how do you actually adjust the TPS if it is off?

 

You twist the actual TPS itself. If it's stock you will have to dremel a cut into the screws so you can turn them with a flat head screwdriver to loosen the TPS. Once you've done that you twist it so that it's 0.5 at idle and 4.5V at WOT.

Do this with the ignition to ON but WITHOUT THE CAR RUNNING.

 

funky *** **** somebody up ther confused the heck otu of me with the 0V ? ok so its supposed to be 0.5 V at idle and 4.5V at woooooottt )) ...

 

If you plug the voltmeter into the (middle I think?) wire, and ground the other one, and don't touch the throttle body, it should be 0.5V (or maybe 0.45). At WOT it should be atleast 4.5V, but it will probably be more.

 

thinking about it some more, Im pretty sure it should be 0.45 and not 0.5V

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinanovicha &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">funky *** **** somebody up ther confused the heck otu of me with the 0V ? ok so its supposed to be 0.5 V at idle and 4.5V at woooooottt )) ... </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, 0V is used within the whole ecu wiring industry. ground is ground, 0V is sensor ground which should only be get from ecu which is a filtered ground. without that, your sensors could get noise from the chassis if u use chassis ground as sensor ground. imagine how could your ecu contorl your engine if your tps signal was 100% and 10ms later, it is 20% while u are still and wot........

 

What if the TPS is adjusted to 0.8V closed and 4.8V WOT? Will the car be more responsive? It was previously on this setting on my car and after correcting it to 0.5V, it seems to have dropped in response.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garyc17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What if the TPS is adjusted to 0.8V closed and 4.8V WOT? Will the car be more responsive? It was previously on this setting on my car and after correcting it to 0.5V, it seems to have dropped in response.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you run the risk of a cel setting it at that. and your idle might go nuts. and it wont be more responsive

i always set mine to .4 closed and it shows 4.9 WOT at that point. I dont know why. Thats the only setting that works for mine without throwing a CEL. (possibly because of the aftermarket TB i have)

Anyways, i read in a thread on here that a guy mesured his stock before he changed his TB and it read .38 or so from the factory.

 

ine is at 0.45V and everything is ****...so 0.45V FTW

 

you guys have to realize how an ecu see all the sensors and control the engine. ecu only see voltage, to give ecu 0.8v at close throttle doesnt really do anything, UNLESS the stock map is tuned by tps as engine load, which is not in honda's case.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you run the risk of a cel setting it at that. and your idle might go nuts. and it wont be more responsive

i always set mine to .4 closed and it shows 4.9 WOT at that point. I dont know why. Thats the only setting that works for mine without throwing a CEL. (possibly because of the aftermarket TB i have)

Anyways, i read in a thread on here that a guy mesured his stock before he changed his TB and it read .38 or so from the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can always set lower than 0.45V close since ecu will see just discard anything lower than 0.45V and see it as full close, but when it is over at wot , then it is a different story....

 

alite i should have be able to adjust that succker, my car ran out of gas.. it swallows gas the way it is rite now haha...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_ek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys have to realize how an ecu see all the sensors and control the engine. ecu only see voltage, to give ecu 0.8v at close throttle doesnt really do anything, UNLESS the stock map is tuned by tps as engine load, which is not in honda's case. </TD></TR></TABLE>
not 100% true.
the ECU also uses the TPS signal to verify that the throttle is actually closed at idle. If it registers open slightly the ECU will not drop into the idle portions of the code, and as a result it will not idle correctly. (also the AICV may not work propperly, there will be no ELD compensation, plus the EVAP & EGR may actuate)
Also I beleive that if the TPS is to far below the .5V@idle (I think &lt;.3V) it will eventually set the TPS CEL.
I've datalogged TPS signals that are .35v and will occasionally see negative values in the TPS readings, this messes with the ECU and will cause rough idle and off throttle response issues.


OP: .5V at closed throttle, 4.5 WOT. Key in run, engine not running.
adjusting it may require slotting the flat headed screws on the TPS, but you may have the slots all ready.

 

"but you may have the slots all ready" ? ok i understand that "OP: .5V at closed throttle, 4.5 WOT. Key in run, engine not running." which wires do i test and see the numbers on the volt meter?? moscowgateway sugested it is the middle wire on the plug for tps.. there are there of them?

 

a lot of the JDM engines come with actual screws on the TPS, USDM do not.

pin2 (middle wire) is the signal. as far as what the other two do... 5V and reference ground. You want the + on signal and - on ground. (like spoon_ek9 said above)
if I knew which wire harness you have I could tell you which wires you should use.

 

awsome.. well i have the b16a2 wiring harness... so the middle one is what i want to be focused on??? damn i was adjusting the one that is supposed to be 5v got advised wrong.. so gatwaymoscow is rite so the middle is signal =\))) awsssomeee ))

 

pin1 - green/black - ground
pin2 - red/black - signal
pin3 - yellow/blue - 5V

 

awsome )) thanks

 

A DMM ( Digital Mulitmeter ) is not going to show real time voltage. Your best bet is start and make sure you have a CONSTANT 5v going in (Yellow) wire and then set your tps to .45-.50v at closed tighten and recheck. Then open to WOT and make sure your reading is around 4.5v. Only true way to make sure their are no breaks in your tps is to use an oscillioscope, but I know not everyone has one!