I have the 918476 B-series non-race damper. It comes with the PS pulley.

There was little to no paperwork that explains this damper. They obviously don't care too much about us Honda guys....

My question is: what do these 8 tic marks represent? Obviously it is for setting the timing, but there is no numbers or info anywhere on this thing. I want to know where TDC is and what the other marks represent in numerical timing values. My best guess is that the mark by itself is TDC and that the 4th mark (the middle tic of the seven) is 16 degrees.

Here are the pics of what I have....


These are not my pics, but it is the exact same damper as mine.

The newer ATI dampers have 16 tic marks and this one has 7 plus the one all by itself.

Thanks.

 

Not sure how to answer your question but I do agree with you on their attitude. I tried to speak to them at the PRI show concering some issues I was having with the pully and they were total ******** to me and did not help one bit. I am glad I paid a bunch of money for a product and get crappy support.

 

ati has been very helpful with me... maybe because im only 45 mins away from them.. the one by its self should be zero and the other ones im sure are the timing advance marks maybe 10-22 degrees in 2 degree increments

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....the one by its self should be zero and the other ones im sure are the timing advance marks maybe 10-22 degrees in 2 degree increments</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's along the lines of what I was thinking.

Any one else know what's up with this.

 

just put it on the motor and use a adjustable timing light set to zero and it should be the single mark if not move the dizzy to where it lines up then advance to where you want it and mark it there with white out

 

(diameter in inches x 3.14159)\ 360 = circumfrence measurement per degree. After you calculated this measurement, devide it into the circumfrential measurement from the single mark to the first of the other marks. That would then give you roughly the timing for that mark. This is all predicated on the single mark being = to TDC.

Why not put the degree wheel back on the engine and find TDC and make a pointer that lines up with the single mark?

 

I should have just bought the degree wheel and cam degreeing kit I was looking at. This would have eliminated this problem.

I did get everything lined up last night. I ended up using a dial indicator on the number 1 cylinder and watched for TDC (the center point where in no longer moved in either direction). It lined up with the single line.

I will try out your calculation tonight to check where the marks line up.

Thanks everyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I will try out your calculation tonight to check where the marks line up.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was going to be my suggestion as well. I had to add marks to an old RX7 pulley and that is how I did it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I should have just bought the degree wheel and cam degreeing kit I was looking at. This would have eliminated this problem.

I did get everything lined up last night. I ended up using a dial indicator on the number 1 cylinder and watched for TDC (the center point where in no longer moved in either direction). It lined up with the single line.

I will try out your calculation tonight to check where the marks line up.

Thanks everyone.</TD></TR></TABLE>Do you have any info on that degree wheel and cam kit? I'd like to get me some. Thanks.

 

Mike Belben makes them. They are top notch and a great value.

Go to.... http://www.newenglandhondarebuilders.com/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mike Belben makes them. They are top notch and a great value.

Go to.... http://www.newenglandhondarebuilders.com/

</TD></TR></TABLE>Cool peice

 

Yeah, Mike does great work.

His product actually made Skunk2's 2007 catalog.

 

Bumpin' this back up.... I'm getting ready to start the motor soon.

Any more info on this? I'm starting to second guess this piece....

The ATI '0' mark is not even close to the stock damper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mike Belben makes them. They are top notch and a great value.

Go to.... http://www.newenglandhondarebuilders.com/

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is a pretty cool site. Did you buy one of his cam degree pieces?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The ATI '0' mark is not even close to the stock damper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you checked it and it's TDC, that's all you need to know. Use a dial back timing light to set the timing from that mark.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bumpin' this back up.... I'm getting ready to start the motor soon.

Any more info on this? I'm starting to second guess this piece....

The ATI '0' mark is not even close to the stock damper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

On mine, if you hold up the pulley (sticker side facing you) Indicators on North side of pulley, the hash mark furthest to the right is my TDC. To double check on "your" unit, Install your OEM pulley put it to TDC, Remove OEM pulley and install the ATI unit without moving the crank off TDC., Then look to see where the Mark lands on the timing belt cover Also, for the lower timing belt cover you need to grind down the the lip that protrudes out, right where the T-belt washer guides are. If you don't, the plastic wil rub against the inner side of your pulley and probably melt. Let me know how it turns out.

 

Thanks for the response Garry.

I don't have any rubbing issues actually and I didn't modify the cover in any way.

I guess that I'll just have to pull the ATI damper, put the stock one back on, and go from there. That is what I was trying to avoid, but it almost seems to be necessary now.

 

the hash marks on my ati ran backwards so they weren't much help.ati said this was a common problem gee thanks for telling me when i was buying it but we got it all figured out

 

That's exactly what this looks like. Pretty much what TheWickedOne said right?

 

Alright.... here's the skinny on this thing.

The one mark by itself is in fact TDC.

I did exactly what Tony recommended to me in a recent PM. I checked for the flat spot with a dial indicator, where the piston neither moves up or down, marked it on the damper then divided that by 2. That gave me the TDC and it lines up perfect with the single mark.

Those other marks really don't mean ****.... they are on the wrong side of the TDC line.

Thanks to all that helped. Too bad ATI didn't have good customer support.... or a clue.

 

kinda off topic..but do you guys think the ATI damper is better product than the Fluidamper?

 

i had the same problem with my ATI tommy

marks are worthless,
use stock crank pulley set timing up
and then put on ATI
thats what i did

good luck guys
d

 

about a year ago ati had someone else start making the pulley as opposed to the same guy who had been doing them.thats the story but yes use stock pulley then swap them back

 

i think the reason the marks are on the wrong side is bc our B's spin backwards?

thinking outloud.

 

im in for an answer too...