Hello.

This is my write up upon request.

These are the tools:

Hack saw
14mm socket
27mm socket--Used to remove Metal ring used to hold Rubber.
1 1/4in Socket
1/2 in Ratchet
1/2in extention 3in's
17mm Wrench
Hammer

Long Bolt With nut
You can either use a washer, Or a large nut to get some distance. The farther away the nut is from the end of the thread Is important. You dont want to be screwing down and get 3/4th of the threw, and run out of thread.



Electric Drill With a Drill bit that is big enough to eat up some rubber (sizes will very). The more rubber it removes, the better. NO CORDLESS DRILLS! They run out of battery quick drilling threw this rubber

~~~~~~~Step #1 {tools used: Drill}
Drill out the Rubber Bushing. Make as many holes as you can. Remember: the more you remove, the faster it will be to get out.



~~~~~~~Step #2 { tools used: Bolt with Nut, Washer/spacer, 1 1/4 socket, 3in extention, 14mm socket, 17mm wrench, Ratchet}




Have the head of the Bolt directually on the metal bushing. then on the other side of the control arm, 1 1/14in socket, followed by washer/spacer, then Nut.


Start screwing the bushing towards the washer. what your doing is forcing the rubber bushing away from its natural position. This is the part where If you did a great job of drilling, you wont have a problem pushing the rubber bushing out. It is also important to have the socket on the head, so that it will sink into the control arm. If the Nut was placed on this side, you will relize the wrench wont stay on the nut because its sinking. plus if you have a Deep well socket here, it wont doo much good because the nut is sinking, and bolt rising.

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~Step #3{ tools: hammer, 14mm socket, 3in extention}

Pound the nut out. you can also grab the control arm itself, and hit on the ground at an angle to loosen the rubber to pull out. again, if you did a good drilling job, it will come out in a breeze.




this is what it will look like. You can remove the bolt now. The Bushing will be more than likly be stuck in Socket. You can use the bolt, and turn the socket around (looking where the washer/spacer was) and pound it out.

~~~~~~~~~~~Step 4 { tools: Hacksaw, hammer, 27mm Socket}

Now your lect with this metal piece that the rubber bushing was connected too.



Using a hack saw, cut a slit in it to relieve its pressure.
( :CAUTION: ) When I did this, I noticed the hack saw was cutting the outsides more than the Middle of the ring. Be cautious, and dont cut in too deep of the control arm. I held the control arm down with a C clamp.




Once its been cut, and you feel its all the way threw, take the blade out, and find a spot to hammer out the ring. I used the ground. I used the 27mm socket (depending on the size of the ring. you want the socket to only cover the ring, dont get it too big that your not making any progress, because its on the control arm.)



As you can see, I had the bushing helping me out on leverage.



Now your ready to install the Polyurithane Bushings

 

~~~~~~~~Step 5 { tools: None}

Get out the lube the company of the product you bought out, and use a hefty ammount of lube.


Smear the lube all around the inside, applying a nice coat.

~~~~~~~~Step 6 { tools: hammer}


Take the 1 of the Bushings supplied for your application, and press it into the hole. It shouldent be hard. If it is, hammer it in. It takes a little streingth to get them in, but its not so hard.




Now put the other one in


Take the Metal rod, and Hammer it in on the side of your choice


YOUR FINISHED!!


Now do the Rest.


Thanks for looking, and I hope it helps you out. Let me know if you have any queastions.

Dustin Reuss

 

great write up

 

good diy man

 

Thanks guys

 

Sticky? lol

 

very very nice! sticky this ****!

let us know if you notice a difference.

 

yeah good stuff dude.. exactly how i do it

for the cutting of the ring i use a sawzall...

 

Good STuff

 

awesome!

now... before you press the new bushing in, drill and tap in a grease zerk.

using the smallest grease zerk fitting you can find, drill and tap in a hole into the LCA.

clean the metal burrs, and screw in the grease zerk.

then lube it up, and put in the bushings.

the grease that you should use if you ever do run out of grease, is marine grease...

as long ans the grease is petroleum free, it should not harm the bushings.

 

this only works on stock LCAs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autox228 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this only works on stock LCAs? </TD></TR></TABLE>
why? your aftermarket lca's need their bushings replaced?

aftermarket lca bushings are either held in by a screw, or they are already some sort of silicone material..


if you do replace your stock bushings with poly ones, always lube up everything!!

basically if the poly bushing is touching a metal part.. that surface has to be lubed.

if you run out of the provided lube, all you have to find is a fully synthetic, non-hydrocarbon based grease.

hydrocarbon based grease can deteriorate the polyurethane.

also I suggest that you drill and tap in a grease zerk into the lca, taking extreme care of where you place the zerk, making sure that the zerk does not bind against another suspension component.

The zerk will allow you to regrease your bushings without having to take off the lca, and remove the bushings.

Rally cars, trucks and other veihcles have this grease zerk tapped into their main pivot points, allowing them to extend the life of their bushings by re lubing them yearly, or monthly depending on your driving conditions.

ex: if you live in a place where it rains all the time, snow or some other crappy weather that will eat away your lube.. then regrease the bushings more often than if you live in a place where the elements don't eat away your lube.

 

yea i have the old omni lca on my eg hatch for couple years now and notice my bushings are cracking..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autox228 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i have the old omni lca on my eg hatch for couple years now and notice my bushings are cracking..</TD></TR></TABLE>


I wouldent have an Idea about aftermarket LCA's and Stock LCA's.

Thanks for the great comments guys

 

sticky icky or some ****....

 

subscribed

 

Good ****!!!!! MY STYLE, GHETTO..BUT FUCKEN EFFECTIVE.....

 

Yup, we did that similar thing on some really tough bushings on my civic, basically press out the center bushing and cut the sleeve and then press it out. However, after some time, those bushings wear, so be ready to replace them depending on the amount of driving you do. I would estimate every 15k, or every few events at the track.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1563815

 

I read that article over.. I was kinda shocked. I added a reply to it. the only thing I see causing that is the friction between the bushing and frame. Sence you auto X, I can see why it wore so fast. the contuines Up and down movement. I also added that maybe a way...some kind of anti friction plate, something becides Lube to help stop friction.