help with changin the Timing Belt and water pump ..!!!!!!!
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
buy a helms manual or get a diagram from a honda dealer. If you're nice, they give you the diagrams and instructions.
The two most difficult parts of swapping the timing belt, tensionor, and water pump;
First, is removing the crank pulley bolt. I took mine to a local shop and had them loosen then retighten for me. No charge. Then I already had purchased a crank pulley tool that holds your crank pulley with a breaker bar to keep it from spinning while you remove the bolt with another breaker bar and a socket. If you have a decent impact wrench, forget this first item.
Second, is timing the cams properly after the belt is installed. It must be perfect. I have a non-vtec B18A that allows you to use dowels to hold the cams in place while at TDC. Helps some, but the tension from the valve springs still makes it difficult.
Good luck and buy a $15 Haynes manual from your local auto parts store.
First, is removing the crank pulley bolt. I took mine to a local shop and had them loosen then retighten for me. No charge. Then I already had purchased a crank pulley tool that holds your crank pulley with a breaker bar to keep it from spinning while you remove the bolt with another breaker bar and a socket. If you have a decent impact wrench, forget this first item.
Second, is timing the cams properly after the belt is installed. It must be perfect. I have a non-vtec B18A that allows you to use dowels to hold the cams in place while at TDC. Helps some, but the tension from the valve springs still makes it difficult.
Good luck and buy a $15 Haynes manual from your local auto parts store.
Here is a good 7 page color photo guidline, but you should really use a Helms manuel as well, I found this to be helpful.
http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1044
http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1044
I found with instead of using a dowl pin on the intake side, I used vice grips with tape on them. This helped me to keep the dash marks on the cam gears lined up, as the intake side seemed to be under a little pressure. The exhaust side I was able to use a 3/8" dowl pin ( correct me if I am wrong, it may be smaller) to keep the cam gears lined up properly, as it wasn't under any pressure. Just make sure your four dash marks on the cam gears are lined up, and you are good to go. It took me more than one try.
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If you are not confident in your abilities you should take it to a shop. Many things can go wrong with changing the timing belt and water pump. The tensioner bolt can be a real pain, and some times it will just come off with minimal effort. If you have the time do it your self give your self the day and definitely have help. The first one I did by my self and it pretty much sucked.
I agree, the first one was a pain. It took me the whole weekend, plus a few hours, but I did a valve lash adjustment as well. The hardest part was locking the intake cam in place to keep everything lined up. The exhaust side was easy, but like I mentioned before, the intake side can be tricky, if you don't have a cam locker.
If you are second guessing yourself, I would take it somewhere. I also advise to use an impact gun to remove the nut holding your crank pully on.
If you are second guessing yourself, I would take it somewhere. I also advise to use an impact gun to remove the nut holding your crank pully on.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benhawk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, the first one was a pain. It took me the whole weekend, plus a few hours, but I did a valve lash adjustment as well. The hardest part was locking the intake cam in place to keep everything lined up. The exhaust side was easy, but like I mentioned before, the intake side can be tricky, if you don't have a cam locker.
If you are second guessing yourself, I would take it somewhere. I also advise to use an impact gun to remove the nut holding your crank pully on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well for the crank pulley, you could just put it in 5th/park, and have someone hold the brakes. Then just use a breaker bar.
But yeah its not something you wanna guess or mess up on....you're working on an interference motor, so the timing is crucial.
If you are second guessing yourself, I would take it somewhere. I also advise to use an impact gun to remove the nut holding your crank pully on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well for the crank pulley, you could just put it in 5th/park, and have someone hold the brakes. Then just use a breaker bar.
But yeah its not something you wanna guess or mess up on....you're working on an interference motor, so the timing is crucial.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well for the crank pulley, you could just put it in 5th/park, and have someone hold the brakes. Then just use a breaker bar.
But yeah its not something you wanna guess or mess up on....you're working on an interference motor, so the timing is crucial. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried that on my brother's del Sol when tightening the pulley bolt to spec. Even with the car in gear (any gear) and him holding the brakes, the engine still would turn backwards slightly when I tried to tighten it. I ended up just using my impact wrench on a lower setting to tighten it.
Well for the crank pulley, you could just put it in 5th/park, and have someone hold the brakes. Then just use a breaker bar.
But yeah its not something you wanna guess or mess up on....you're working on an interference motor, so the timing is crucial. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried that on my brother's del Sol when tightening the pulley bolt to spec. Even with the car in gear (any gear) and him holding the brakes, the engine still would turn backwards slightly when I tried to tighten it. I ended up just using my impact wrench on a lower setting to tighten it.
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drjondurst
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