Installing TWM ITBS this weekend, few questions.
As i look at the itbs its alot more clear then i thought it was excluding a few things..
I see where the tps goes, and it has a IAT already setup on it, I got the golden eagle vaccum box and all the hoses and everything meet up and what not.. On the side of the black box, it seems there's a open nipple, i'm assuming this is where the brake booster hose will go.. in any case, the only thing i actually have trouble with, is infact.. Where's the map sensor go.. secondly At the beginning and end of the twm fuel rail it isn't a stock..so i'm assuming i need to use a - line from the fuel filter and then the return line but where would i run the return line..any help would be appciated..i pretty much am ready to go..just a few helpful hints would be nice.
I see where the tps goes, and it has a IAT already setup on it, I got the golden eagle vaccum box and all the hoses and everything meet up and what not.. On the side of the black box, it seems there's a open nipple, i'm assuming this is where the brake booster hose will go.. in any case, the only thing i actually have trouble with, is infact.. Where's the map sensor go.. secondly At the beginning and end of the twm fuel rail it isn't a stock..so i'm assuming i need to use a - line from the fuel filter and then the return line but where would i run the return line..any help would be appciated..i pretty much am ready to go..just a few helpful hints would be nice.
as i look at the golden eagle vaccum box, i'm beginning to wonder if the map just plugs into one of these vac hoses..??
You do run the MAP into one of the 1/8 NPT fittings in the GE vacumm block.
Most of the TWM I've seen pics of (Not many ITB's in NE TN and too broke to get a set of my own) show the FPR on the fuel rail like stock using a -AN fitting. You will need a -AN fitting/braded line from your fuel filter and then on the return from the FPR a -AN fitting/braded line to your stock return by the master cylinder. You can just put a generic clamp on it or cut and reflange placing another -AN fitting onto it.
Most of the TWM I've seen pics of (Not many ITB's in NE TN and too broke to get a set of my own) show the FPR on the fuel rail like stock using a -AN fitting. You will need a -AN fitting/braded line from your fuel filter and then on the return from the FPR a -AN fitting/braded line to your stock return by the master cylinder. You can just put a generic clamp on it or cut and reflange placing another -AN fitting onto it.
ya i still got a few items to get it seems. I knew these wouldn't be a bolt up situation but how much i didn't know.. Whats needed for the fuel filter and return line hookups..is there anything else i'm pretty sure i got everything, thxyou for the pic it helps out alot.
i would recomend getting rid of the GE vacuum log and getting a custom one built roughly the size of a 12oz popcan. you will have an easier time getting them to run well.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would recomend getting rid of the GE vacuum log and getting a custom one built roughly the size of a 12oz popcan. you will have an easier time getting them to run well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i've seen these before, how does this make a difference?, im curious..
i've seen these before, how does this make a difference?, im curious..
It has to do with the volume of air in the vaccuum canister, a small volume of air will fluctuate more rapidly than a larger volume, and the ECU will have to try and keep up with an ever changing vaccuum signal. With a vaccuum canister approx. the size of the intake manifold, the signal is more even and the ECU gets a steadier signal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">interesting
however i've seen many people have great results using the GE vacumm log</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto that. We've been using GE units for a couple years now with good results.
As for running the MAP, run a vacuum line from one of the 1/8" nipples to the MAP sensor, and either fab a mounting bracket to secure it somewhere, or use zip-ties. You can also mount it to the side of the GE manifold, like the picture below of the setup I ran.
When I was running TWM's, I used the OE filter and made the AN fittings run from the filter to the rail, and then from the FPR on the TWM rail to the OE rubber return via barbed nipple.
however i've seen many people have great results using the GE vacumm log</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto that. We've been using GE units for a couple years now with good results.
As for running the MAP, run a vacuum line from one of the 1/8" nipples to the MAP sensor, and either fab a mounting bracket to secure it somewhere, or use zip-ties. You can also mount it to the side of the GE manifold, like the picture below of the setup I ran.
When I was running TWM's, I used the OE filter and made the AN fittings run from the filter to the rail, and then from the FPR on the TWM rail to the OE rubber return via barbed nipple.
hey man u can pmme me for more help
but as far as the fuel lines go you are going to need -6 female off both ends then a inline filter also -6 ready then off the filter you need to buy a coupler or **** i cant think of the name of it but basically you cut off your stock hard fuel line and attach these(sleeves) to it and it seals on there. then for your return line -6 also to a step down cause the return line is smaller i think its 1/8th i cant remember, then the same(sleeves) and you are good all these can be bought in a jegs or summit catalog
pmme if you need me to explain it better! i have all the part numbers you need and the prices wrote down for eg chassis i just went thru this
but as far as the fuel lines go you are going to need -6 female off both ends then a inline filter also -6 ready then off the filter you need to buy a coupler or **** i cant think of the name of it but basically you cut off your stock hard fuel line and attach these(sleeves) to it and it seals on there. then for your return line -6 also to a step down cause the return line is smaller i think its 1/8th i cant remember, then the same(sleeves) and you are good all these can be bought in a jegs or summit catalog
pmme if you need me to explain it better! i have all the part numbers you need and the prices wrote down for eg chassis i just went thru this
Well a place, some of yall might know, Hybrid-racing locally has a fuel setup which i'm buying Another question i have is which Throttle cable do i use, my integra one seems too long.
So i called TWM very helpful and nice people +10000 for customer service.. they sent me the tps plugin, and injector clips for 20 bucks.
They also said this particular model is setup for the stock throttle cable is there anyone who has had problems with this?? i'm using my stock 97 gsr TC.
They also said this particular model is setup for the stock throttle cable is there anyone who has had problems with this?? i'm using my stock 97 gsr TC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They also said this particular model is setup for the stock throttle cable is there anyone who has had problems with this?? i'm using my stock 97 gsr TC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I remember we had to adjust the throttle cable a couple times, but that is with an ITR throttle cable, which is a bit longer than a GSR if memory serves correct. There are a few adjusting tabs on the throttle butterfly on the TWM's, it will take two or three attempts to get it good.
Don't forget to order an extra return spring from TWM, otherwise you have a 9/10 chance of having throttle stick issues like many others using TWM 2000's.
I remember we had to adjust the throttle cable a couple times, but that is with an ITR throttle cable, which is a bit longer than a GSR if memory serves correct. There are a few adjusting tabs on the throttle butterfly on the TWM's, it will take two or three attempts to get it good.
Don't forget to order an extra return spring from TWM, otherwise you have a 9/10 chance of having throttle stick issues like many others using TWM 2000's.
it has two springs on it already.. and i have a type-r throttle cable, i just remembered.. because when i got my skunk2 manifold, i did the installation the right way, with the itr tc, the itr mounting bracket...
so ya. What do you recommend for the itr tc.
so ya. What do you recommend for the itr tc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you recommend for the itr tc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had it on the middle of the three adjusting spots.
You can also use a SOHC Civic VX cable, that is the shortest one available I believe.
I had it on the middle of the three adjusting spots.
You can also use a SOHC Civic VX cable, that is the shortest one available I believe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had it on the middle of the three adjusting spots.
You can also use a SOHC Civic VX cable, that is the shortest one available I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What about a '98 SOHC Civic DX cable? I have that right now, and it wraps around my strut tower.
I had it on the middle of the three adjusting spots.
You can also use a SOHC Civic VX cable, that is the shortest one available I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What about a '98 SOHC Civic DX cable? I have that right now, and it wraps around my strut tower.
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