I am soo confused!!! I have a Eg Hatch with a B18c1 Swap i was all set on going all motor but now, My Ek coupe is almost done and im almost ready to swap the motors and now i am starting to think that when i swap it into a heavy car i should boost it because all motor would be useless in a Ek coupe because its to heavy. all i want is 300whp and ill be content or a mid to low 13's car not gutted, All i really know is All motor and going to turbo will be like learning to walk again, does anyone have any suggestions on which route to go or does anyone have a video of a decently quick all motor ek coupe or Teg? If i do go turbo could i build the motor for boost before actually boosting it to break in the motor then slap a turbo kit on when i feel its broken in enough, or would i need to break it in with the turbo?

 

Boost it!! What is the difference in weight with full interior... 3-400lbs? 300hp on boost i would imagine is easier to get than 300hp n/a.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost it!! What is the difference in weight with full interior... 3-400lbs? </TD></TR></TABLE>


not even that much

 

Much easier to get 300whp with a turbo. You should be able to get a kit that would make 300 easy on a b18c1. Full race kit maybe. And low 13's would be easy at that

 

A guy on here with a very mild N/A B20VTEC (probably like 205whp) ran 13.1 in a 99 Si. So theres still hope

 

you definetly dont need 300 hp to run a low 13. If you want 300 hp go with a turbo, because it will cost way to much to do N/A. If you wana be cool though and not like everyone else go all motor and make like 230-250 and run high 12's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A guy on here with a very mild N/A B20VTEC (probably like 205whp) ran 13.1 in a 99 Si. So theres still hope</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was that gutted ? or full interior? i am over the gutted thing my hatch is gutted i want to be like a supra owner lol "9's civic with Full interior, a/c, power steering, full system, my 4 girlfriends in the back, while towing another civic!!! jk" but seriously i guess turbo is the way to go, does anyone have the any idea on if its okay to build a turbo car and break it in with out the turbo ? or will the rings not seal properly?

 

Boost it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gsrkid_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Was that gutted ? or full interior? i am over the gutted thing my hatch is gutted i want to be like a supra owner lol "9's civic with Full interior, a/c, power steering, full system, my 4 girlfriends in the back, while towing another civic!!! jk" but seriously i guess turbo is the way to go, does anyone have the any idea on if its okay to build a turbo car and break it in with out the turbo ? or will the rings not seal properly? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Car weighed 2450 with him but remember this is an EM1. If you have a DX I doubt it needs to be super gutted.

 

I'll make it simple:
Easy,fast,cheaper,very easy horsepower = turbo
Harder,more money,slightly more reliable,less horsepower but still fast times = all motor.

Either way you do it is fine. Just understand going all motor will be more difficult than just slapping on a turbo kit and getting it tuned. All motor cars with 200 hp will run alot faster than a 200hp turbo car.

 

Ditch the B-series and go K-Series....yeah!!!!!
To actually answer your question...BOOST IT!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostedb20EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All motor cars with 200 hp will run alot faster than a 200hp turbo car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with that, thats what makes me wanna go all motor, hmm i think i will go with th boost eventually ill get another all motor eg hatch lol, still no body has answered my question is it safe to drive a motor built for turbo with out a turbo just to break it in ?

 

by no means do i know much about boosing a car but wouldnt the low compression ratio cause problems if you didnt have the turbo on it?

 

remember its not to hard to get 200 to 210 outta a all motor set up and run mid 12's, while guys with 350-400 run same times. all motor all the way for me....l

 

go to forced induction they'll be able to tell you more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0334973 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by no means do i know much about boosing a car but wouldnt the low compression ratio cause problems if you didnt have the turbo on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my compression will be about 9.5 ratio i don't think that it would hurt the motor because some cars come stock with that compression with out a turbo but i could be wrong, what all motor cars do you know with full interior that runs mid to low 13s that a daily driver

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gsrkid_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what all motor cars do you know with full interior that runs mid to low 13s that a daily driver </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm hoping mine will. I'll let you know next week

94 EH2, making 195-200whp, full interior, last weighed 2450 with driver, drive to work/school everyday

 

go all motor cuz i want turbo to myself

 

people still ask this question?


Its based on goals. List your goals, and you have your answer. 9 times out of 10 it points to boost. I'd prefer N/A if I had the cash - but I am a cheap *** so I'll just go for 400whp instead of 200whp

 

You have 4 cylinders, not 8, natural aspiration is NOT an option.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have 4 cylinders, not 8, natural aspiration is NOT an option.




</TD></TR></TABLE>

false, a friend of mine runs 13.1 on full interior in a dc2 ls-vtec all motor he has a little over 200 whp

shut up

 

I don't understand this mentality of "All motor = more money"

If you're building a strong/proper turbo build, they cost money too. Sure if you're one of those "boosted, stock internals" people, FI is the more cost effective one. But if people are shooting for high numbers, most will build the block, use a better turbo like a GT35r or w/e and sleeve it which does cost money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm hoping mine will. I'll let you know next week

94 EH2, making 195-200whp, full interior, last weighed 2450 with driver, drive to work/school everyday</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea but im running a 97 ex coupe though, is it really possible to run low to mid 13s ? full interior? i need to go to a different sub forum and ask what the N/A Ek guys are running and what the boosted Ek guys are running

 

What all does ur friend have in his Ls-vtec Dc2?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gsrkid_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea but im running a 97 ex coupe though, is it really possible to run low to mid 13s ? full interior? i need to go to a different sub forum and ask what the N/A Ek guys are running and what the boosted Ek guys are running </TD></TR></TABLE>

Look around in the all motor forum. I'm pretty sure theres a decent amount of guys running their setups in EKs/DCs

Why do you have 93 CX in your sig then?