ok i was entering the freeway on 3rd at about 7k rpm and accidently down shifted to 2nd instead of 4th. i immediately kickd the clutch in and just put it on 5th. when i was driving home the engine would die if u dont give gas. same when its idle.
today when i started the car it idles fine but i can hear this knocking sound from the block. first i thought i probably have bent some valves but seems like the sound is from the block. what else could happen when over reving the engine?
i havent really checked the engine. dont have time yet. but if its a rod knock what parts will i have to replace? im also thinking of doing a mild build on the motor since it will be taken apart. you guys have any suggestions on mild build?

p.s. this is going to be my first time working on engine. so any help will be appreciated. thanks.


Modified by dc2-slow at 2:26 PM 3/20/2007

 

You can try to upload a quality sound clip..that will help us try to figure out the sound. Did u have oil in the car when this happen?

 

ok will try to get a sound clip. and yes theres oil.

 

TIme to go to sears and pickup a compression tester..... the dying without gas sounds like valves, the knock..... could be a few things..

 

 

took a video clip. it was also smoking white smoke.

 

Stop driving it before something punches a hole in the block.

Get ready for a rebuild

 

I hear no rod knock, but that's not to say it's the speakers I'm listening to, or the quality of sound you recorded at. However, I hear some NOISY *** valves. Compression test first, leak down second. Post results but I'm willing to bet it will be a valves issue, not a rod issue.

HTH

 

yeah.. im hoping so. but from where im listening to.. its coming from the bottom part.

 

start with compression test and don't drive the car

 

i didn't hear a rod knock at all. but it could just be at the RPMs you are at. when i blew my supra motor you couldn't hear it from idle but at 3k RPMs it was vague.

buttt i do here REALLY noisy valves. like mentioned before. Compression test, and then leakdown.

give us the numbers from the compression test.

 

hard to hear from the clip. push down on the pistons and see if one drops. maybe spun bearing

 

Sounds like valves to me, spun bearing or rod would be different knock and would change on Rev. White smoke is not good either, sounds to me you have cracked sleeve leaking coolant in from high rpm downshift.. Sorry bro. Dont run it no more!!!!

 

ok i just did a compression test
#1 245
#2 240
#3 195
#4 205
are those numbers normal for a b18c5

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2-slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i just did a compression test
#1 245
#2 240
#3 195
#4 205
are those numbers normal for a b18c5</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct me if im wrong but shouldn't they all be around 195?

 

well the idea is that theyre even.. id wouldnt be happy if that were mine..
my b16b does 240+ across board..

 

oh yea.. got these numbers without warming up the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the idea is that theyre even.. id wouldnt be happy if that were mine..
my b16b does 240+ across board.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i do believe i stand corrected.

240psi across the board is what you want. looks like 3/4 are somewhat bad.

 

It doesnt really matter how high the number is, as long as all the number are within reason of each other.

 

i would say the only one thats bad is 3. not really even bad. try a valve adjustment in cylinders 3 and 4. i think it should take care of your problem. if the valve lash is incorrect, it will cause you to lose compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by building boost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say the only one thats bad is 3. not really even bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

#3--- 195/245= 21% loss
#4--- 205/245= 17% loss

please explain your statement above???

giving incorrect information is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear no rod knock, but that's not to say it's the speakers I'm listening to, or the quality of sound you recorded at. However, I hear some NOISY *** valves. Compression test first, leak down second. Post results but I'm willing to bet it will be a valves issue, not a rod issue.

HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2, pull the head...how bad is the white smoke?

 

ok... finally got the chance to pull the head out. and heres what it looks like. nothing major damage. just need to replace 4 exhaust valves. block is fine.

 

question is.. im thinking of doing a mild build set up on the head.
blox type B cams
blox valves springs and retainers
port/polish the head
chipped p28 ecu
72 mm throttle body
intake mani match port
b&m fuel pressure regulator/gauge
walbro in-tank fuel pump
better header
test pipe

what do you guys think?

 

dont go off and start building your head. it may not be your exhaust valves. it could be our piston rings are going bad. get you compression issues figured out first thennn build your head.