Hi there, I have a 1989 honda accord LX. I started having a really bad shake in the steering wheel when braking. I went to a brake shop and they said I have warped rotors and I need them replaced. So I went to my local auto supply shop and bought 2 new rotors. I put them on and the shaking was EVEN WORSE (at that time I didn't know that I managed to get factory defect rotors with a warp right where the rotor bolts on to the hub) Anyways, I said it couldn't be the rotors because they are new. But a friend suggested I have them machined at a machine shop, so I did, and the shake was still there just as bad as ever. Then I put new pads, and calipers in, and emptied and bleed the entire brake system. I also resurfaced the rotors a 2nd time. I tried the car and I was getting the shake even more now! You can imagine how annoyed I was. I cheked the rotors with a digital dial indicator and had .22 mm runout! and the limit is .10 mm. So I took the rotors off and had them machined a 3rd and last time, at that time an Idea popped in my mind. My dad has a 1986 honda accord which he as no problem with. I took the digital dial indicator and put it on his rotors and hubs, and had like .01 mm run out, which is practically perfect. I took his rotors off and put on my newly machined rotors that I had machined the 3rd time. I put the dial indicator and had .11 mm runout!! I couldn't believe it, I took the rotors back and asked for a refund because the rotor was a factory defect. They wouldn't do it. Anyways, thinking that my whole problem was from the rotors, I went out and bought 2 more new rotors from another auto shop a couple days ago and put those on. I greased all the pins nicely and thought everything would be perfect. I tried it out and what do you think! I STILL HAD THE SHAKING!! ARGGHHH. I took the new rotors off AGAIN and put them on my dads accord to check them with the dial indicator, they were straight and true, So my rotors are straight and true. I put them back on my car and checked them, and I am getting a .04 mm runout, and I think that is because my hub might be warped .04 mm. Anyways, .10 mm is the limit so I don't think I should be getting such a bad shake when braking at .04 mm!! I had the tie'rods, suspension, lower arm, and upper arm inspected and checked and they are all nice and tight. The last two things I came down to are fixing the hubs, or checking my rack & pinion. I don't know what to do anymore, this has been the most bizzare experience. I appreciate if you were able to read through all this, and ANY help would be appreciated, because I am running out of options. Remember, I am getthing this shaking ONLY when braking, even doing 80 mph, I have a nice solid steering wheel and my car runs like a dream, but the moment I hit the brakes!, It feels like the whole car is gonna come apart!! LOL. ahhhh, hope somebody can help me.

Thank you all!
A desperate person.....

 

I have the same problem on my 94 Accord, and my friend had the same problem on his 96 Accord, he told me he had the bake pads switched out and the problem disappeared.. so Ima do the same.

Hope that helps, and good luck fixing it.

 

well im thinking its time to swap out complete spindles from another accord and start from there....like used spindles from a salvage yard....it sounds like the problem is in the wheelbearings, bushings, ball joints, rotors all of it....in my opinion i would just buy used spindles and go from there....a new route....


Modified by Grandhustleman86 at 11:29 PM 3/18/2007

 

I recently just fixed my shaking problem during braking...I had put on power slot rotors and factory pads last summer on my 2000 lx...and i've been having weird noises and shaking while braking...at first i thought it was Honda's fault for doing a bad job at fixing my wheel bearing...but it's really hard to believe that they'd mess something like that up....so i finally gave in and bought new pads/had o'reilly resurfaced my rotors thinking maybe i've damaged the shims when messing with the brake system...luckly the Hawk Performance Pads I bought last week has the shims built into them so i dont have to worry about messing with the shims.... and so far....the brake system has never felt smoother =P

 

Grandhustleman86:

Do you mean spindles as in the entire steering knuckle? What exactly do you refer to as the spindle? I checked my bearings, the passenger side feels tight and smooth when I turn it, but the drivers side has a little bit of grinding but it is also tight. The thing is that I don't get a noise because of the drivers side bearing so for now it isn't a problem.

Cronoousman:
What do you mean when you refer to shims? All my brakes have is: Caliper, Anti-rattle clips, pads, and rotors. I put quite alot of brake-quite grease onto the back of my pads, I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Its hard to understand what the Brake Pads would do to get shaking in the steering wheel?

 

the "spindle" connects to the upper balljoint, lower balljoint, and tie-rod end....its the whole piece that contains your rotor, hub, caliper....

 

Yea lol, I refer to that as the steering knuckle. I went to the junk yard and checked about 9 steering knuckle assem. with the dial indicator and most of them were reading like .04 to .10 mm runout. I was thinking that since I also have a .04 mm runout on my rotors right now, it wouldn't do a difference, so I didn't buy any. But its kind of hard to believe that 9 cars in the junk yard would have the same problem I have. So I guess tommorow morning I will go pick up the best 2 steering knuckles I can find. My local Junk yard charges like $35 each, which isn't too bad. Thanks for all the help everyone! I will keep you guys updated on what happens after I replace the steering knuckles.

 

good luck man....chances are the problem will stop here....

 

i have a 94 accord, and i had put new rotors on my shaking went away, but came back after a few thousands miles. I thought it was (i did need new ones)the axles, got them replaced and it was still there. To make a long story short, turns out it was my tires, cause they were mismatched and uneven and what do you know streeting wheel vibration during braking went away. Also i know your issue is realted to braking but did you check your struts and bushing hopefully thats the problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grandhustleman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im thinking its time to swap out complete spindles from another accord and start from there....like used spindles from a salvage yard....it sounds like the problem is in the wheelbearings, bushings, ball joints, rotors all of it....in my opinion i would just buy used spindles and go from there....a new route....


Modified by Grandhustleman86 at 11:29 PM 3/18/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you retarded? Why would you replace the whole knuckel just fora brake pulsation? Do you change your whole engine when you get a rough idel?

To the OP, you probably have either warped rotors, or the caliper is not moving freely on the sliders. I would get new pads and rotors and service the caliper. This includes cleaning and lubeing the sliders, and cleaning and greasing the caliper bracket.

As you have stated, you've tried all that, but Its always good to double check things, sometimes in a rush you dont do thing properly. The wheel bearings wouldent cause a shake, unless they are ready to fall out. Balljoints will make a knocking sound when they are really worn, and they will consistantly shake, not just when your on the brakes. Perhaps you need to clean the hub when you put the new rotors on, make sure that there is no rust build up, and ensure that the rotor is sitting flush.

 

TO: JDM_DC4_Fanatic:

I have new calipers, brake pads, and a 2nd new set of rotors put on. I just greased the caliper pins a couple days ago, and the caliper bracket was moving easily from side to side. The rotors were checked on my dads honda accord and they have only a .01 mm run out. Which is close to perfect. I have no idea what it can be, I'm going to the junk yard this morning to pick up different steering knuckles, they don't cost too much so it shouldn't be a problem. (Oh, I also sprayed brake clean on the hubs and cleaned them really good with a brush, made them like new, and wiped them dry with WD40.)


TO Jmumblez2001:

I'm thinking if it was the tires, I would get a shake all the time, but it only happens when braking.



Modified by Danutdlp at 9:55 AM 3/19/2007

 

your rotors are warped

 

It looks like you haven't read everything lol. Anyways, I tested these rotors on my dads Perfect hub with a Digital Dial Indicator, and I am getting only .01 mm runnout on the rotors. My manual said's that I can have up to .10 mm runout. So the rotors are practically perfect. Thats why I'm soo baffled lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you retarded? Why would you replace the whole knuckel just fora brake pulsation? Do you change your whole engine when you get a rough idel? {Idle....knuckle....spell check man....or just intelligence....why post with improper spelling?}</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok the OP has done everything in his best intrest and power to fix this problem....Its about time to get rid of those spindle's and go from there....obviously YOU haven't been reading....once again HE'S DONE EVERYTHING IN HIS POWER to fix this problem....I'm not saying Backtracking is a bad thing and I will agree with you all day on that....but he's better off with a fresh start....

 

FINNALY!!! I went yesterday and bought 2 Spindle Assemb. from a salvage yard, and the car works BEAUTIFULLY!!! Ahhh, finnaly lol. The funny thing is though that with my old spindles I was getting like .03 to .04 runnout on my rotors, and with the new spindles I am getting a .05 mm runnout on the rotors but I'm not getting the shaking as I was with my old spindles, and also the spindles I got from the salvage yard was from a car that was totaled in the front LOL, you would think the wheels were hit too, but I guess not. WOW this was one wierd experience. LOL Thanks for all your help people!

 

Glad to help man....keep us updated on any further problems!