95 Accord front brakes are confusing me
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Brakes
okay that 1990-1997 brake tutorial.. got me all confused..
okay i'm assuming whats keeping the rotor in is the 4 bolts on the front hub right.. so if thats the case i don't need to remove lower balljoint.. tie rod ends.. and all that other crap..
let me get this right.. the hub assembly is bolted to the knuckle with 4 bolts going into bearing than from the bearing into the front hub... and thats what act as wheel stud aka lug nuts.. than the rotor sits behing the bearing and the wheel stud come thru the middle of the rotor and then 4 bolts going into the front hub is this right.. i think after looking at that tutorial it got me even more confused..
i think the reason why u have to remove most of the steering parts is because the rotor can't slide out without the bearing remove because the rotor sits on the bearing so u gotta unbolt the front hub that right there brakes free of the rotor but the rotor can't move because hub is in the way.. so u gotta take the hub out and thats why u gotta undo the balljoints, tierods and axles.
SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME I'M RIGHT.. FEELS LIKE I'M THINKING TO HARD AND I'M GOING CRAZY....
Modified by soon2bdropped at 8:37 PM 3/17/2007
okay i'm assuming whats keeping the rotor in is the 4 bolts on the front hub right.. so if thats the case i don't need to remove lower balljoint.. tie rod ends.. and all that other crap..
let me get this right.. the hub assembly is bolted to the knuckle with 4 bolts going into bearing than from the bearing into the front hub... and thats what act as wheel stud aka lug nuts.. than the rotor sits behing the bearing and the wheel stud come thru the middle of the rotor and then 4 bolts going into the front hub is this right.. i think after looking at that tutorial it got me even more confused..
i think the reason why u have to remove most of the steering parts is because the rotor can't slide out without the bearing remove because the rotor sits on the bearing so u gotta unbolt the front hub that right there brakes free of the rotor but the rotor can't move because hub is in the way.. so u gotta take the hub out and thats why u gotta undo the balljoints, tierods and axles.
SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME I'M RIGHT.. FEELS LIKE I'M THINKING TO HARD AND I'M GOING CRAZY....
Modified by soon2bdropped at 8:37 PM 3/17/2007
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Re: Brakes (soon2bdropped)
let me see if i can help..first off the rotor doesnt slide off..its pressed on and you have to get a machine shop to press it off unless you can find another method to get it off which iknow there is but i leave it to the pros..anyways...theres 4 bolts on the back of the hub assembly that do have to be removed to get the rotor off..also you would have to remove the brake caliper to get the hub assembly out..theres 2 bolts that holds the caliper on..if your going to take your rotors somewhere to get the rotors pressed off and new ones off..you can take the hub assembly off and just take that to the shop...and to do that you have to unbolt the lowercontrol arm take the axle out of the hub..take the caliper off..unbolt the brake lines that connect to thehub and unbolt it from the upper control arm..theres no need in unbolting the tie rods..they are on the lower control arm..also the reason you cant just slide the rotors off like other cars is the wheel bearing on the inside is what keeps it pressed in thats why you have to get it pressed off..i dont know if that helped any but i tried?
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Re: Brakes (lowered94accord)
sorry to dissect your post but...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..first off the rotor doesnt slide off..its pressed on and you have to get a machine shop to press it off </TD></TR></TABLE>
no, it's not pressed on. I don't get why people keep saying this. The only parts that are pressed in the entire front knuckle assembly is the lower balljoint into the knuckle and the hub into the bearing, thats it. Unless you want to count the balljoints being pulled into the knuckle and lower control arm. Either way, the rotor isn't pressed on in any way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..theres no need in unbolting the tie rods..they are on the lower control arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you shouldn't have to unbolt the tie rods to get the axle out but if you take the knuckle off the car yes you do. The tie rod isn't bolted to the LCA, it's bolted to the knuckle. Thats how you steer the car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..also the reason you cant just slide the rotors off like other cars is the wheel bearing on the inside is what keeps it pressed in thats why you have to get it pressed off..</TD></TR></TABLE>
The bearing isn't pressed into the knuckle. It's just bolted on by those 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle. Sometimes the bearing gets so rusted to the knuckle that you need a press to seperate the two but it's not actually pressed into the knuckle. Once those 4 bolts are removed you SHOULD be able to just pull the hub/rotor/bearing assembly off the knuckle. But it doesn't always work like that. Sometimes you can hit the back of the rotor and it'll pop free and sometimes you have to have a machine shop press it apart. When I did mine, the bearing was so rusted into the knuckle I had to have a machine shop press it apart. Then I cleaned the bore where the bearing goes into and greased it to help prevent it from rusting up the next time I needed to replace the rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..first off the rotor doesnt slide off..its pressed on and you have to get a machine shop to press it off </TD></TR></TABLE>
no, it's not pressed on. I don't get why people keep saying this. The only parts that are pressed in the entire front knuckle assembly is the lower balljoint into the knuckle and the hub into the bearing, thats it. Unless you want to count the balljoints being pulled into the knuckle and lower control arm. Either way, the rotor isn't pressed on in any way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..theres no need in unbolting the tie rods..they are on the lower control arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you shouldn't have to unbolt the tie rods to get the axle out but if you take the knuckle off the car yes you do. The tie rod isn't bolted to the LCA, it's bolted to the knuckle. Thats how you steer the car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..also the reason you cant just slide the rotors off like other cars is the wheel bearing on the inside is what keeps it pressed in thats why you have to get it pressed off..</TD></TR></TABLE>
The bearing isn't pressed into the knuckle. It's just bolted on by those 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle. Sometimes the bearing gets so rusted to the knuckle that you need a press to seperate the two but it's not actually pressed into the knuckle. Once those 4 bolts are removed you SHOULD be able to just pull the hub/rotor/bearing assembly off the knuckle. But it doesn't always work like that. Sometimes you can hit the back of the rotor and it'll pop free and sometimes you have to have a machine shop press it apart. When I did mine, the bearing was so rusted into the knuckle I had to have a machine shop press it apart. Then I cleaned the bore where the bearing goes into and greased it to help prevent it from rusting up the next time I needed to replace the rotors.
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Re: Brakes (soon2bdropped)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay i'm assuming whats keeping the rotor in is the 4 bolts on the front hub right.. so if thats the case i don't need to remove lower balljoint.. tie rod ends.. and all that other crap..</TD></TR></TABLE>
somewhat... the four bolts on the front is holding the rotor to the hub but you do need to take the axle nut off, pop the lower balljoint free and remove the axle from the hub. This give you access to the four bolts on the back of the knuckle. These four bolts hold the bearing to the knuckle. Once removed the hub/rotor/bearing assembly SHOULD pull away from the knuckle but this doesn't always work this way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me get this right.. the hub assembly is bolted to the knuckle with 4 bolts going into bearing than from the bearing into the front hub... and thats what act as wheel stud aka lug nuts.. than the rotor sits behing the bearing and the wheel stud come thru the middle of the rotor and then 4 bolts going into the front hub is this right.. i think after looking at that tutorial it got me even more confused..</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow, thats confusing and hard to read...
the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing to the knuckle do not go any further than the bearing, they are not the wheel studs.
The rotor is held to the hub by the four bolts on the front of the hub, the hub is pressed into the bearing. Then the axle goes through the hub and then the axle nut goes on.
The rotor doesn't sit behind or in front of the bearing, it is kind around the bearing. Hard to explain but once you have it off you'll see what I mean.
ok, looking at the diagram above, part #2 is the wheel bearing. Part #22 are the four bolts holding the bearing to the knuckle. Part #3 is the hub that gets pressed into the bearing. Part #21 is the wheel stud. Part #20 is the four bolts holding the rotor to the hub. And of course part #17 is the rotor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the reason why u have to remove most of the steering parts is because the rotor can't slide out without the bearing remove because the rotor sits on the bearing so u gotta unbolt the front hub that right there brakes free of the rotor but the rotor can't move because hub is in the way.. so u gotta take the hub out and thats why u gotta undo the balljoints, tierods and axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
again, thats a bit hard to follow but it seems like you have the general idea of what and why certain things need to be done.
If you have any more questions, just ask
somewhat... the four bolts on the front is holding the rotor to the hub but you do need to take the axle nut off, pop the lower balljoint free and remove the axle from the hub. This give you access to the four bolts on the back of the knuckle. These four bolts hold the bearing to the knuckle. Once removed the hub/rotor/bearing assembly SHOULD pull away from the knuckle but this doesn't always work this way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me get this right.. the hub assembly is bolted to the knuckle with 4 bolts going into bearing than from the bearing into the front hub... and thats what act as wheel stud aka lug nuts.. than the rotor sits behing the bearing and the wheel stud come thru the middle of the rotor and then 4 bolts going into the front hub is this right.. i think after looking at that tutorial it got me even more confused..</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow, thats confusing and hard to read...
the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing to the knuckle do not go any further than the bearing, they are not the wheel studs.
The rotor is held to the hub by the four bolts on the front of the hub, the hub is pressed into the bearing. Then the axle goes through the hub and then the axle nut goes on.
The rotor doesn't sit behind or in front of the bearing, it is kind around the bearing. Hard to explain but once you have it off you'll see what I mean.
ok, looking at the diagram above, part #2 is the wheel bearing. Part #22 are the four bolts holding the bearing to the knuckle. Part #3 is the hub that gets pressed into the bearing. Part #21 is the wheel stud. Part #20 is the four bolts holding the rotor to the hub. And of course part #17 is the rotor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the reason why u have to remove most of the steering parts is because the rotor can't slide out without the bearing remove because the rotor sits on the bearing so u gotta unbolt the front hub that right there brakes free of the rotor but the rotor can't move because hub is in the way.. so u gotta take the hub out and thats why u gotta undo the balljoints, tierods and axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
again, thats a bit hard to follow but it seems like you have the general idea of what and why certain things need to be done.
If you have any more questions, just ask
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Re: Brakes (TouringAccord)
aslright i got it.... i see 2 longers bolts behind the calipers that goes inside the knuckle.. are those 2 bolt what holds the caliper on the rotor and the 2 other bolts on the caliper is what keeps the pads inside the caliper and on the rotor itself?
so basically if i wanted to change my rotor which i do really bad.. is take axle nut off.. take wheels off.. pull axle out of hub...... undo the lower balljoint and undo the 4 bolts in the front of the hub and 4 bolts behind the knuckle and i'm clear to pull the hub away from the rotor....
what if i needed to change my wheel stud one of them are torn up... do i just simply knock it out with a hammer with everything still in or those are pressed into wheel bearing?
why is harder to change the front rotor on our cars rather than toyota camry and maybe like jeep cheroke(sp)
so basically if i wanted to change my rotor which i do really bad.. is take axle nut off.. take wheels off.. pull axle out of hub...... undo the lower balljoint and undo the 4 bolts in the front of the hub and 4 bolts behind the knuckle and i'm clear to pull the hub away from the rotor....
what if i needed to change my wheel stud one of them are torn up... do i just simply knock it out with a hammer with everything still in or those are pressed into wheel bearing?
why is harder to change the front rotor on our cars rather than toyota camry and maybe like jeep cheroke(sp)
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Re: Brakes (soon2bdropped)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aslright i got it.... i see 2 longers bolts behind the calipers that goes inside the knuckle.. are those 2 bolt what holds the caliper on the rotor and the 2 other bolts on the caliper is what keeps the pads inside the caliper and on the rotor itself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorta...
2 of the bolts your looking at hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle.
The other 2 bolts hold the caliper to the caliper bracket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically if i wanted to change my rotor which i do really bad.. is take axle nut off.. take wheels off.. pull axle out of hub...... undo the lower balljoint and undo the 4 bolts in the front of the hub and 4 bolts behind the knuckle and i'm clear to pull the hub away from the rotor....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pretty much... but you have to undo the lower ball joint before you can pull the axle out. You've got the idea though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if i needed to change my wheel stud one of them are torn up... do i just simply knock it out with a hammer with everything still in or those are pressed into wheel bearing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they aren't pressed into the bearing, they are pressed into the hub. But they are able to be hammered out pretty easily. Then just use a lug nut and some washers to pull the new stud back into the hub. Since you're replacing the rotor and you're going to have it apart, you can just do it when you have the bearing/hub assembly off the car. It'll make it easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is harder to change the front rotor on our cars rather than toyota camry and maybe like jeep cheroke(sp)</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's just a bad design. You can convert to rotor-over-hub by using Acura CL hubs and different rotors. You can either reuse your calipers or you can upgrade the caliper and rotor to something larger at that time as well. But since you probably already have all the parts thats probably not an option right now. But if you want, just check out the FAQ and you'll see some links on how to do this, they list the parts and all.
Sorta...
2 of the bolts your looking at hold the caliper bracket to the knuckle.
The other 2 bolts hold the caliper to the caliper bracket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically if i wanted to change my rotor which i do really bad.. is take axle nut off.. take wheels off.. pull axle out of hub...... undo the lower balljoint and undo the 4 bolts in the front of the hub and 4 bolts behind the knuckle and i'm clear to pull the hub away from the rotor....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pretty much... but you have to undo the lower ball joint before you can pull the axle out. You've got the idea though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if i needed to change my wheel stud one of them are torn up... do i just simply knock it out with a hammer with everything still in or those are pressed into wheel bearing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they aren't pressed into the bearing, they are pressed into the hub. But they are able to be hammered out pretty easily. Then just use a lug nut and some washers to pull the new stud back into the hub. Since you're replacing the rotor and you're going to have it apart, you can just do it when you have the bearing/hub assembly off the car. It'll make it easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is harder to change the front rotor on our cars rather than toyota camry and maybe like jeep cheroke(sp)</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's just a bad design. You can convert to rotor-over-hub by using Acura CL hubs and different rotors. You can either reuse your calipers or you can upgrade the caliper and rotor to something larger at that time as well. But since you probably already have all the parts thats probably not an option right now. But if you want, just check out the FAQ and you'll see some links on how to do this, they list the parts and all.
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Re: Brakes (TouringAccord)
okay i'm lookin to buy an air ratchet that'll be able to get the 4 front bolts out of the front hub.. 2 that holds the caliper bracket into knuckle 2 that holds the calipers to the calipers bracket.. and 4 that holds the bearing into knuckle.. i can prolly use my air impact on some of the bolts..
air ratchet that i had couldn't even unbolt the the bolt thats on the valve cover.. that ratchet was so horrible i could hold the air ratchet with the socket in my hand hold it tight and i could keep the socket from spinning.. weak lil crap... it was about 50 ft torque 3/8" drive i dunno.. biggest one ive seen is 65 ft lb torque and i doubt that would make a big difference.. now my impact is heavy duty 400 ft torque and that thing got *****... i need something like but an air ratchet.. help me out guys..
also the shims what is it for and whats its use.. does all car have it.. and the wear indicator is it on the pads itself? does does slide off the old pad and put on new pads.. i'm assuming whe the pads are low it rubs against the rotor making the squealing sound?
thanks...
air ratchet that i had couldn't even unbolt the the bolt thats on the valve cover.. that ratchet was so horrible i could hold the air ratchet with the socket in my hand hold it tight and i could keep the socket from spinning.. weak lil crap... it was about 50 ft torque 3/8" drive i dunno.. biggest one ive seen is 65 ft lb torque and i doubt that would make a big difference.. now my impact is heavy duty 400 ft torque and that thing got *****... i need something like but an air ratchet.. help me out guys..
also the shims what is it for and whats its use.. does all car have it.. and the wear indicator is it on the pads itself? does does slide off the old pad and put on new pads.. i'm assuming whe the pads are low it rubs against the rotor making the squealing sound?
thanks...
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From: BRICKTOWN, NEW JERSEY, USA
Why do people have to make **** more complicated then it should be?
take the 2 damn bolts off on the caliper and take off the big 36 mm or whatever bolt in the center then knock it off with a slide hammer...
take the 2 damn bolts off on the caliper and take off the big 36 mm or whatever bolt in the center then knock it off with a slide hammer...
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Re: Brakes (soon2bdropped)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also the shims what is it for and whats its use.. does all car have it.. and the wear indicator is it on the pads itself? does does slide off the old pad and put on new pads.. i'm assuming whe the pads are low it rubs against the rotor making the squealing sound?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the wear indicator is on the pad itself. It's built into the pad. So when you replace the pads the wear indicator is replaced as well. and yes, when the pad gets low the wear indicator rubs the rotor making a loud squeal and if yu wait too long that wear indicator will put a groove in the rotor.
Yes, the wear indicator is on the pad itself. It's built into the pad. So when you replace the pads the wear indicator is replaced as well. and yes, when the pad gets low the wear indicator rubs the rotor making a loud squeal and if yu wait too long that wear indicator will put a groove in the rotor.
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Re: (standbackimapro)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by standbackimapro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do people have to make **** more complicated then it should be?
take the 2 damn bolts off on the caliper and take off the big 36 mm or whatever bolt in the center then knock it off with a slide hammer...</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, you shouldn't do that. You pull the hub right out of the bearing exposing the inside of the bearing. If any dirt, rust or anything gets in there while the hub is out then it'll mess up the bearing when you re-assemble everything and start driving, then you have to spend more money and more time to fix it. Do it right the first time. Also, it's recommended that you replace the bearing if you pull the hub out.
take the 2 damn bolts off on the caliper and take off the big 36 mm or whatever bolt in the center then knock it off with a slide hammer...</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, you shouldn't do that. You pull the hub right out of the bearing exposing the inside of the bearing. If any dirt, rust or anything gets in there while the hub is out then it'll mess up the bearing when you re-assemble everything and start driving, then you have to spend more money and more time to fix it. Do it right the first time. Also, it's recommended that you replace the bearing if you pull the hub out.
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Re: (TouringAccord)
okay something is wrong with my brakes..okay i changed the front brake padsand while i was pushing the piston back in.. fluid was leakin from the master cylinder.. so i opened up the cap... thats about 3-4weeks ago.. my master cylinder has fluid in it kinda dirty though..its full.. and i check under the pedal near the brake pedal its not leaking.. also i'm gonna try bleeding it next.. thanks.. i don't get how would air get in..
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Re: (accord2021)
no i just open the cap on the master cylinder so fluid can spill out.. i was pushing the front piston in... i heard if u open the cap while doing that it will prematurely damage the MC but i doubt thats the cause of it... if the rear brake pads are low and the front is new will it make the pedal grab nice and firm but if u ride it so more it feels like it almost goes to the floor.. but the pedal will come back up.
i think i got air some how or my rear pads are acting up..
i think i got air some how or my rear pads are acting up..
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