Well finally starting my own lsvtec build and i thought i might share it with the H-T community. This is my first bottom end buildup so all tips and comments are welcome and appreciated.

OLD SETUP

00 US spec gsr (45k miles)
TWM 52mm ITBs
Camp1320 550cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Skunk 2 pro 2 cams
Skunk 2 proseries cam gears
Portflow dual valvesprings and titanium retainers
Smashed in dc header and crush bent exhaust
Hondata S300

This setup produced 175whp and 124ft lbs of torque. Not very impressive but kinda expected due to the massive overcam and terrible exhaust.
Never the less propelled my full interior eg with p/s to an 8.8et at 80mph

pics of the old setup




My plans are to do a sleeved/forged 2.0 liter build using my gsr block. Since that will take a long time I am throwing this together to have something to play with while i save for the 2.0, thats why im using several used parts. (water pump, oil pump, pistons) Im basically replacing the bottom end and using a better exhaust, header combo.

goal is solid 200whp with ac/ps

NEW SETUP
B18a1 block (cleaned, honed, stock bore)
89mm crank (cleaned and micropolished)
P30 pistons (cleaned and balanced)
PR4 rods (cleaned balanced and resized with ARP bolts)
OEM rings bearings and seals
ARP head studs
GE dowel pins
Trust sandwich plate
SS vtec oil line
plug for oil oriface on head

00 gsr tranny
ITR limited slip differential
Clutchmasters fx300 clutch disk
OEM pressure plate and flywheel
00 GSR driveline (axles, brakes etc.)

00 gsr head (no port)
TWM 52mm ITBs
TWM fuel pressure regulator
Camp 1320 550cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
MSD blaster coil
Skunk 2 pro2 cams
Skunk 2 proseries cam gears
Portflow dual valvesprings and titanium retainers
Hondata S300
Rage ver 1 header
Tanabe 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust modified with ES Tuning muffler

* parts i still have to purchase

Also this engine is going in a diff car, rhd eg6 in the background.

Heres pics of the parts i've compiled so far for the new build. I will try to update as progress moves along.
P30 pistons hung on PR4 rods and secured with ARP hardware


89mm micropolished crank

Donor engine



Picked up block today, cleaned and honed. I will be doing bottom end assembly in my room for cleanliness and better lighting for more accurate measuring purposes.





Well been kinda broke last few weeks, so parts have been a little hard to come by. (also had to spend some money on some black ITR recaros)

anyways picked up a few more parts recently so i will begin assembleing the rotating assembly tonight after i pickup my bearings from acura this afternoon. I will take pics and will post them up tonight as well.

thanks
-roma


well cleaned the block up some more, one good final time.




stock pile of parts in my room



sorry for the crappy pic, but i think everyone gets the idea.


crank installed, all the bearing clearances turned out to be perfectly in spec according to the plastigage. honda color code was right on the money this time. slightly under .0015 inches





rotating assembly complete! rod bearings clearances turned out to be all perfect as well being slightly under .0015 in.







Short block complete!
ARP head studs installed




Almost Complete! waiting on vtec oil line and welding up the water pipe





engine in the car






NEW PICS OF CURRENT SETUP AND DYNO RUN






NEW
dynoed again in some cooler weather and put down 199whp and 138ft lbs of tq
trying to get a new graph up.

MOST RECENT DYNO RUN

Close enough to my goal hp.






Modified by j spec at 10:48 AM 10/21/2007

 

Nice... in for the results

 

sup man, looks like everything is going pretty well there, quick tip... chamfer the tops of the bores on your block so that piston installation is much easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pomansouth01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sup man, looks like everything is going pretty well there, quick tip... chamfer the tops of the bores on your block so that piston installation is much easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>
not real noticeable but its done.

 

Good to see this thread!

I have a few questions...

1.) Did you daily drive your previous setup? How many miles did you have on the setup with ITB's? Ever filter them?

2.) You said it made 175whp with the stock GSR block... Do you have the dyno sheet?

3.) Did your TWM's come with the vacuum fitting installed in them on each runner?

The TWM's I bought have a spot for the MAP sensor at the end, and no fittings for vacuum lines...

Thanks!
- Derek

 

Man, I hear skunk2 stage2's do very well for this type of set-up.

 

ok, kewl I didnt notice that. What kind of gas mileage are you getting with those itb's. How broad is your power band? Do you think it would be to your advantage to have a single TB setup?? Who tuned you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The TWM's I bought have a spot for the MAP sensor at the end, and no fittings for vacuum lines...

Thanks!
- Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like you got the new version. Why TWM did this i have no idea. I have the same setup as the OP, with a line from each runner going to a log, then the map sensor getting an indiv. line from the log. Still hickups a bit at part throttle at low revs with a Hondata s200, but from what i have seen, worlds better than the sensor mounted on one runner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good to see this thread!

I have a few questions...

1.) Did you daily drive your previous setup? How many miles did you have on the setup with ITB's? Ever filter them?

2.) You said it made 175whp with the stock GSR block... Do you have the dyno sheet?

3.) Did your TWM's come with the vacuum fitting installed in them on each runner?

The TWM's I bought have a spot for the MAP sensor at the end, and no fittings for vacuum lines...

Thanks!
- Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Initially it was just a weekend driver and autocrosser. when i sold my daily driver, it took its place. I put about 12k miles on the engine after installing the ITBs. I had filter socks on them occasionally but usually no filters. I simply avoided dusty conditions and since a rebuild was planned, i didnt care too much anyway.

2. Yeah stock us spec gsr block 10:1 comp I have a dyno sheet but don't have a scanner to scan it.

3. On my ITBs each plenum has a small nipple between the throttle plate and the head. I simply ran those to a common source (vacuum manifold) to run the booster, pcv, and map sensor.

If your ITBs dont have a nipple on each plenum then my guess would be you have the newer version. (2000 series i think) They have an integrated vacuum manifold. Thats why you probly have the map sensor bung on one side and a barb on the other end for the brake booster.

Thanks
roma

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Looks like you got the new version. Why TWM did this i have no idea. I have the same setup as the OP, with a line from each runner going to a log, then the map sensor getting an indiv. line from the log. Still hickups a bit at part throttle at low revs with a Hondata s200, but from what i have seen, worlds better than the sensor mounted on one runner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he runs an S300 or any alpha-n based program, map sensor reading shouldnt affect it too much.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pomansouth01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, kewl I didnt notice that. What kind of gas mileage are you getting with those itb's. How broad is your power band? Do you think it would be to your advantage to have a single TB setup?? Who tuned you? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Gas mileage i would say is in very high 20mpg depending on driving. Should probably increase as well with higher compression.
As far as a single TB setup I got a very good deal on the ITBs. Since the car is setup for road courses i love the crisp throttle response. Plus those cams need as much flow as possible. (intake and exhaust)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man, I hear skunk2 stage2's do very well for this type of set-up. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I hope so. They will be better suited for the 2.0 liter that i plan to build later on.

Thanks
-roma

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Looks like you got the new version. Why TWM did this i have no idea. I have the same setup as the OP, with a line from each runner going to a log, then the map sensor getting an indiv. line from the log. Still hickups a bit at part throttle at low revs with a Hondata s200, but from what i have seen, worlds better than the sensor mounted on one runner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When holding them up, I can look directly through from the fitting for the brake booster to the openning for the MAP sensor.

Does anyone have any experience with these new ones with running the MAP sensor off the common section cast into the TWM's?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j spec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. Initially it was just a weekend driver and autocrosser. when i sold my daily driver, it took its place. I put about 12k miles on the engine after installing the ITBs. I had filter socks on them occasionally but usually no filters. I simply avoided dusty conditions and since a rebuild was planned, i didnt care too much anyway.

2. Yeah stock us spec gsr block 10:1 comp I have a dyno sheet but don't have a scanner to scan it.

3. On my ITBs each plenum has a small nipple between the throttle plate and the head. I simply ran those to a common source (vacuum manifold) to run the booster, pcv, and map sensor.

If your ITBs dont have a nipple on each plenum then my guess would be you have the newer version. (2000 series i think) They have an integrated vacuum manifold. Thats why you probly have the map sensor bung on one side and a barb on the other end for the brake booster.

Thanks
roma</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info. Do you have any pictures of exactly where the MAP was running off of?

Also, did you tune with a blend of MAP/TPS? Or strictly one or the other?

Thanks in advance.

- Derek

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Does anyone have any experience with these new ones with running the MAP sensor off the common section cast into the TWM's?

Thanks for the info. Do you have any pictures of exactly where the MAP was running off of?

Also, did you tune with a blend of MAP/TPS? Or strictly one or the other?

Thanks in advance.

- Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine was tuned strictly with alpha-n.
I simply ran a vacuum line from the vacuum manifold to the map sensor nipple. The vacuum manifold has six small barbs: 4 of which run to a plenum, 1 for the map, and i ran the other to the pcv valve on top of the black box. The vacuum manifold then has one large barb for the brake booster.

Also i would highly recommend tuning with an alpha-n based program. It makes for a much more driveable application and is alot easier to tune.

Vacuum manifold is in one of the pics. The last nipple that doesn't have a hose on it is what my map sensor was ran to. My new car has a firewall mounted map sensor, so i will run a vacuum line off the vacuum manifold over to the map sensor.

Thanks
-roma

 

Crome should work well, then, right?

Looks like I have to find myself a firewall-mounted MAP sensor then. I have a TB mounted one now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crome should work well, then, right?

Looks like I have to find myself a firewall-mounted MAP sensor then. I have a TB mounted one now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes chrome should work very well. It even has a tps voltage scaler which comes in very handy, my S300 didn't have that feature.

No you dont need a firewall-mounted map sensor. Unscrew your map sensor from the TB and it has a small nipple and o-ring, simply push the vacuum hose over the nipple. Thats how mine was ran previously, the firewall mounted map will look much cleaner though in my opinion.

thanks
-roma

 

Whats up man, Im the dude that you met at Autolabz. Nice build! Looks like it will make alot of power, you should do some port work for even more

Let me know if you want a wire tuck or anything stealth engine bay work on the EG6.

 

yeah im gonna send the head off to portflow when i get ready for the 2.0 build.

 

I hope to throw ITB's on my bucket one day

 

finally picked up the rod and main bearings from acura today. will update tonight.

 

Looking good man! Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j spec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">finally picked up the rod and main bearings from acura today. will update tonight. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>


post pics of your rhd roma

shoot me a pm too man

 

looking good,
keep us updated

 

well i was hoping to get the complete rotating assembly together tonight but ended up getting stuck because i didnt have a 1/4 in. extension for the ring compressor. Also for some reason the rod caps were extremely difficult to remove with the new arp bolts. Thats not going to be good once the piston is in the bore and the cap has to be removed to read/remove the plastigage.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


post pics of your rhd roma
</TD></TR></TABLE>

as soon as i get the engine in and tuned i'll take some pics and post them in the correct forum. Should have everything done for the May 20th meet though cant wait.

 

little update, shouldn't be long now till its complete.

 

yay