What cams?
If I didn't want to change my rev limit and needed to stay with stock valvetrain on a 200 hp JDM H22, which cam would be best for me? I have i/h/e upgrades.
Has anyone run the Crower Stage 2 with stock valvetrain? I have read in different sites that you can as long as you don't exceed the factory rev limit. But then I see that Crower says a valvetrain upgrade is required. Part of me can see the sales side of that but also that they should know the limits and requirements of their products.
So I am turning to Honda-Tech. Has anybody used the Crower Stage 2 cams with stock valvetrain?
Has anyone run the Crower Stage 2 with stock valvetrain? I have read in different sites that you can as long as you don't exceed the factory rev limit. But then I see that Crower says a valvetrain upgrade is required. Part of me can see the sales side of that but also that they should know the limits and requirements of their products.
So I am turning to Honda-Tech. Has anybody used the Crower Stage 2 cams with stock valvetrain?
Okay, how about this? Has anybody had good results with Skunk 2 Stage 1 cams? They don't require a valvetrain upgrade. What kind of performance could I expect?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jblack34 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, how about this? Has anybody had good results with Skunk 2 Stage 1 cams? They don't require a valvetrain upgrade. What kind of performance could I expect?</TD></TR></TABLE>
12-15whp across the board with the Stage 1's on my cars. I ran them with and without the valvetrain. The only difference the valvetrain made was pulling an extra 700Rpms of Peak power out of it. You decide if thats worth it for you. I have been running the Stage 1's with a stock valvetrain for 10,000+ miles.
At 3500-5000rpms the cams really shine compared to a stock cam by % comparison. I have a dyno comparison somewhere with it. Call it 12% more power at 3500-5000 rpms.
12-15whp across the board with the Stage 1's on my cars. I ran them with and without the valvetrain. The only difference the valvetrain made was pulling an extra 700Rpms of Peak power out of it. You decide if thats worth it for you. I have been running the Stage 1's with a stock valvetrain for 10,000+ miles.
At 3500-5000rpms the cams really shine compared to a stock cam by % comparison. I have a dyno comparison somewhere with it. Call it 12% more power at 3500-5000 rpms.
that boosts my confidence! do u have the manual tensioner conversion done as well? i'm guessing that u are just keeping ur stock rev limiter on the skunk2 stage 1s right? also do u have cam gears?
I was looking on Ebay and saw the OBX cams. Any feedback on those cams? The stage 1 and 2 cams look to be the same as Skunk2's.
Also, I saw the Super Tech valve springs and titanium retainers. Would they be something I should consider?
At Lightning Motorsports they advertise the Skunk2 Pro 1+ 305-05-5200 cams for $449 on an overstock sale. I am considering them. Only I will not be raising my rev limit. Would I even see the benefit of that cam without raising the rev limit?
Also, I saw the Super Tech valve springs and titanium retainers. Would they be something I should consider?
At Lightning Motorsports they advertise the Skunk2 Pro 1+ 305-05-5200 cams for $449 on an overstock sale. I am considering them. Only I will not be raising my rev limit. Would I even see the benefit of that cam without raising the rev limit?
I will tell you that the reason I will not be raising the rev limit is because it is an auto tranny. I wanted an opinion about the cams without people bashing me for using an auto tranny. It is my fiance's car. The Stage 1 may be my best bet. Plus, I don't want to kill the bottom end when using an auto tranny. The other thing is that it will be going in an Acura Integra. I am feeling the lighter car will allow me to use a good aftermarket cam, but not too aggressive.
Speaking of that, the Crower 63422a-2 Stage 2 (stock idle lobes) I feel would be a good choice for me since I will be using an auto tranny. Would that make sense?
Speaking of that, the Crower 63422a-2 Stage 2 (stock idle lobes) I feel would be a good choice for me since I will be using an auto tranny. Would that make sense?
I have multiple issues with this thread.
1. If you are on a budget, forget about all motor performance. Anything you half *** will result in failure and dissapointing results.
2. That automatic transmission is killing your performance so bad, that even with a fully built motor you would still get walked by a stock Civic Si
3. Under normal driving, that automatic transmission is a time bomb. Just imagine what will happen once you start pushing the car more wanting to take advantage of engine modifications.
There's no way this situation will end well unless you either do a 5 speed swap or dump the car before the trans goes out. Furthermore, focus on doing things right the first time.....ask anyone on this board with a 200+whp H22 N/A how much they half assed.
1. If you are on a budget, forget about all motor performance. Anything you half *** will result in failure and dissapointing results.
2. That automatic transmission is killing your performance so bad, that even with a fully built motor you would still get walked by a stock Civic Si
3. Under normal driving, that automatic transmission is a time bomb. Just imagine what will happen once you start pushing the car more wanting to take advantage of engine modifications.
There's no way this situation will end well unless you either do a 5 speed swap or dump the car before the trans goes out. Furthermore, focus on doing things right the first time.....ask anyone on this board with a 200+whp H22 N/A how much they half assed.
To my knowledge Crower 2's require a valvetrain upgrade. And any higher lift, higher duration cams will produce power higher in the powerband. It's just up to you how much higher you want to go. Skunk Stage 1 (not Pro 1), Crower 1's, or Type-S may be for you.
Upgrading the valvetrain isn't required (except I think there's some rocker arm modification required for the Type-S cams) but the principle here is much like choosing to keep your stock shocks; it's a matter of how much abuse they're willing to take. And the consequences to a valvetrain are much more catastrophic than to a blown shock.
Upgrading the valvetrain isn't required (except I think there's some rocker arm modification required for the Type-S cams) but the principle here is much like choosing to keep your stock shocks; it's a matter of how much abuse they're willing to take. And the consequences to a valvetrain are much more catastrophic than to a blown shock.
those MP1A's are excellent for daily cruising; but you'll have to service that transmission frequently, and regularly, especially with the temptation to manually downshift...but it will be better than decent. however, because automatic ECU's essentially suck, your tuning options are limiting your upgrades.
just get type-S cams or Skunk 2 stage 1, a 64mm throttle body and a V-AFC, and call it a day.
then get to a serious project
just get type-S cams or Skunk 2 stage 1, a 64mm throttle body and a V-AFC, and call it a day.
then get to a serious project
Save your money for a manual swap. Any money spent modding an Auto for power is pretty worthless.
Sorry to be one of those guys.....
I run a chipped ECU from Katman with an 8500rpm rev limit on the car with the S2S1's and Hondata S300 on the Jun Cammed beast....
Without the valvetrain you can use the stock ECU....
I tune with Golden Eagle cam gears....
Sorry to be one of those guys.....
I run a chipped ECU from Katman with an 8500rpm rev limit on the car with the S2S1's and Hondata S300 on the Jun Cammed beast....
Without the valvetrain you can use the stock ECU....
I tune with Golden Eagle cam gears....
and the skunk2's run on the stock valvetrain? im considering getting these now and maybe even lowering the rev limit a little just to be safe (to around 7500rpm). do u have the manual tensioner conversion on the car with those cams?
With the Stage 1 Skunks you can use the Stock VT.
As far as lowering the Rev-limit? Why sacrifice power? I rev my Stock Motor to over 8000's with no issues.
Manual tensioner on the JUN Prelude not on the Skunk'd Prelude.....
Yes I have 2!
As far as lowering the Rev-limit? Why sacrifice power? I rev my Stock Motor to over 8000's with no issues.
Manual tensioner on the JUN Prelude not on the Skunk'd Prelude.....
Yes I have 2!
Vibrant header on both of them.
No times with the S2S1 setup but it made 186whp with untuned cam gears using just a vafc. So I'd say its good for 190+ once the gears are tuned in considering we saw 5-7whp form tuning them on the other Prelude when I still had the S2S1's in there.
No times with the S2S1 setup but it made 186whp with untuned cam gears using just a vafc. So I'd say its good for 190+ once the gears are tuned in considering we saw 5-7whp form tuning them on the other Prelude when I still had the S2S1's in there.
Thank you for a reply about the cams instead of the transmission. I knew as soon as I mentioned it was an auto car most people were going to talk about the tranny and not the original topic.
Again, thanks!
Now, if the Super Tech valve springs are worth getting, I will get them. If not I am leaning towards S2S1.
If it is possible to raise the rpm on the p13 auto ecu Then the stock idle side Crower stage 2 is what I think I would like. I have been told the auto ecus can't be tampered with. I don't understand it. I would think you can just nobody is really doing it. As we all know, performance oriented people in the import cars prefer a stick. If anybody knows anyone that reprograms or chips auto ecus please let me know.
Again, thanks!
Now, if the Super Tech valve springs are worth getting, I will get them. If not I am leaning towards S2S1.
If it is possible to raise the rpm on the p13 auto ecu Then the stock idle side Crower stage 2 is what I think I would like. I have been told the auto ecus can't be tampered with. I don't understand it. I would think you can just nobody is really doing it. As we all know, performance oriented people in the import cars prefer a stick. If anybody knows anyone that reprograms or chips auto ecus please let me know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the Stage 1 Skunks you can use the Stock VT.
As far as lowering the Rev-limit? Why sacrifice power? I rev my Stock Motor to over 8000's with no issues.
Manual tensioner on the JUN Prelude not on the Skunk'd Prelude.....
Yes I have 2!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock motor to over 8k??
As far as lowering the Rev-limit? Why sacrifice power? I rev my Stock Motor to over 8000's with no issues.
Manual tensioner on the JUN Prelude not on the Skunk'd Prelude.....
Yes I have 2!
</TD></TR></TABLE>stock motor to over 8k??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the Stage 1 Skunks you can use the Stock VT.
As far as lowering the Rev-limit? Why sacrifice power? I rev my Stock Motor to over 8000's with no issues.
Manual tensioner on the JUN Prelude not on the Skunk'd Prelude.....
Yes I have 2!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well if i do it i think ill lower it to 7900...no higher. i definitely dont want to take the chance. and at the same time i dont wanna spend money on the s/r.
As far as lowering the Rev-limit? Why sacrifice power? I rev my Stock Motor to over 8000's with no issues.
Manual tensioner on the JUN Prelude not on the Skunk'd Prelude.....
Yes I have 2!
</TD></TR></TABLE>well if i do it i think ill lower it to 7900...no higher. i definitely dont want to take the chance. and at the same time i dont wanna spend money on the s/r.
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BukakkEK9
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Nov 3, 2006 07:31 PM




