I'm at a cross road, one direction is a D15B2, the other a D16A6. I'm having a machine shop Deck and hone the cylinders of one of the two blocks.

Here's what makes the 2 blocks a delima.

I have a D16Y7 head milled .050 inches (1.27mm) ,the exhaust ports are ported and polished. I'm using a D16Y8 intake manifold port matched to a GSR throttle body. Other additions are Skunk2 cam gear,B&M FPR, V-racing 3" SIR w/ Fujitsu filter, Megan 4-2-1 header, and custom 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust w/ high flow cat. I'm also using a PG-7 ECU (89 Integra).

I've run the set up on a D15B7 block before and it pulled like lil monster and suprised quite a few people.

But now i have a D16A6 block, so do I go with more displacement and potential more torque with slightly less compression?

Or do I keep the rod/stroke ratio of the D15B2 and higher compression.

Eventually a custom cam shaft will come into play but not anytime soon.

 

Urrr i guess I should have posted in another forum?

 

p-29's in the A6 block, you wont regret it esp if you zero the deck height to the pistons

 

Originally I was going to run P29s but i'm already between 11:1.1 and 12:1.1 compression with the flat top pistons in the d15B2. Adding the p29 to D16A6 with my head would put me over 13:1.1 compression I do believe . But figuring out what compression i'm at , looking at having, has been and is not an area i'm good at.

 

dont believe the hype on those calculators, my setup was a A6 block with p-29s and a A6 head milled .080k with a one layer HG. Ran in on pump gas no problem, made the power and time in my sig

 

Thats cool, with out swapping pistons which set up would you choose? No money for P29s right now

 

I went with the A6 block. Took the crank rods/pistons out , had block decked, cylinders honed and block, rods/pistons and crank cleaned. Took the Y7 head to the shop had the valves checked, make sure none where bent when the head gasket went. I did suffer damage to the stock cam (scratches) and left head gasket indentions which they milled out and took care of any other damge to the head. Now my Crower stage 2/3 (street/Strip) cam will be here Monday. Putting new bearing in and piston rings, maybe ARP rod bolts, i have ARP head studs already. I can't wait to get this finished wanted to do this a long time!

 

Should have gone with the A6 head to over that Y7 also.

Here's my old A6 build. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1739065

Sold the car but I see it every day. Engine has over 10k on it now.

 

Only good thing about the Y7 head is the rocker arms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should have gone with the A6 head to over that Y7 also.

Here's my old A6 build. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1739065

Sold the car but I see it every day. Engine has over 10k on it now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is better about the A6 head over the Y7. I would think the larger valves would be a benefit.

 

The bigger B7 valves dont flow as well as the A6 because they are shrouded by the cylinder walls. Big valves that are too close to the cyl walls wont flow as well as smaller valves that are farther away from cyl walls. Plus the A6 port shape are a little better.

Just my 2 cents

 

But the Y7 does have larger intake and exhaust ports if i remember correctly. The Y7 is the same cast as a Y8 minus the the Vtec. The A6 head had 2 bent valves and had chunks missing from the lobes. The kid who originally owned it ,basically trashed it. I just got it for the bottom end. Also i got the Y7 head from a 99 civic DX for free, with less then 16,000 miles on it. It's still got less then 20,000 on it, i like the idea of it having low miles and less wear and tear.
Nice D16 build , i hope to have some good numbers as well.

 

Y7 intake ports suck, just as the Y8's do. They're curved and theres nothing you can do to fix that without welding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Y7 intake ports suck, just as the Y8's do. They're curved and theres nothing you can do to fix that without welding.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Hondacivic4g, i read that you used a pg7 ecu on a d15b7.... how did you setup your wiring??....did you use an obd1 distributor?...and everything else obd0?? .... please explain it all.. i got a pg7 and a d15b8 bottom /w a d15b7 top.... i cant seem to get it to fire right...


(isnt pg7 = pm7?) idk..

 

Just a correction to myself, Y7 intake ports are not the same as Y8's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtroy917 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondacivic4g, i read that you used a pg7 ecu on a d15b7.... how did you setup your wiring??....did you use an obd1 distributor?...and everything else obd0?? .... please explain it all.. i got a pg7 and a d15b8 bottom /w a d15b7 top.... i cant seem to get it to fire right...


(isnt pg7 = pm7?) idk..</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure you use the 88-89 pg7...the 86-87 is vacuum advance...

 

i got it , but .... im misfiring... O.o help!!... idk what im doin wrong now...

 

jtroy917 , i'm not sure i'm following what your asking. The original block used for my 1st build was a D15B7, but thats the only part of the D15B7 i used. The head was a D16Y7 (99 civic DX). The distributor was from a D16A6 (crx SI) and the ECU was a PG7 (89 integra). The wiring was normal MPFI set up.
So maybe that clears up your question?

 

Oh did you think I was running the D15B7 longblock?

 

not not quite... thought you were running obd0 ecu + harness /w an obd1 dizzy