i just swapped in a b18a1 obd1 motor into my obd0 ef sedan. last night everything seemed fine so i took it out for a ride and it started over heating badly, so i stopped and let it cool down, once it cooled down when i tried to start it the car wouldnt idle correctly, it would stay on for about a second and then die out. when i would give it gas it would stay on but if i stopped giving it gas it would just die out again. today i started my car up and it idled fine again. i dont have a clue whats going on with it, any ideas?

btw my radiator didnt have much coolant/water in it so it over heated, but i put more in there and it still over heats, im thinking thats because of a bad thermostat?

 

I think when the engine is cold, the ecu is running closed loop (reading from maps), once the engine warms up, it switches to open loop and reads from the o2 sensor. If you shut it down, and tried restarting while still warm, it seems expected that it would still have the same problem. This is just a guess, but it seems like you have a sensor issues, maybe o2. Someone please correct me if i'm wrong.

 

i am using the old d series o2 sensor and its throwing a code im pretty sure...

 

i think obd1 needs a 4 wire o2 (heated) and the old one is just a 2 wire...
try that

 

i didnt convert mine to obd1 though, and the o2 sensor is in the same location as the d series, not right by the cat, but at the 4 pipe part of the headers, so it is heated. and its an obd0 integra ecu.

 

so you kept the obd0 ecu and distributor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shrug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am using the old d series o2 sensor and its throwing a code im pretty sure...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you checked the code? What code is it throwing?

It sounds like you might have air trapped in your coolant system. Try jacking the front of the car up a little and filling the radiator. This makes the top of the radiator WAY higher than anything else on the car and all the air comes to the top. You still may want to squeeze the upper and lower hoses as you get close to filling it all the way up.

 

im not sure if i checked the codes right but i think im getting codes 9, 10 and 14. theres 9 short blinks, 1 long blink, and 1 long with 4 short. i am using a obd0 ls distributor and ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shrug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not sure if i checked the codes right but i think im getting codes 9, 10 and 14. theres 9 short blinks, 1 long blink, and 1 long with 4 short. i am using a obd0 ls distributor and ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve

Do you have the plugs on the IACV and the IAT backwards? CYP means something is cooky with the distributor wiring.

 

ill check the plugs...i dont think they are backwards? if i switched the two wires youre supposed to add to the dizzy would that trip that code? its possible i got mixed up when wiring the car.

 

To address the overheating issue...

1)fill it up with coolant
2)let it idle with the cap off so all the air comes out of the coolant and then top it off
3)when the car gets up to temp, make sure the cooling fan comes on
4)if the fan comes on and it still overheats, you probably need a new headgasket (I know you have one, but you should get the head shaved enough to make sure it is still straight which will cost $40 but ensure your head won't leak)
It could be your thermostat but the chances of that motor having a bad thermostat are slim since it was probably changed already. That said, that could be the problem since it might have sat and dried out of coolant making it stick closed. If the coolant is drained out, or not filled all the way already, it's an easy changed since you do have that entire engine gasket kit to your disposal and it's good insurance to change thermostats when you don't know their age.

For your wiring problems
1) for the two sensors that share the same type of plugs just switch the plugs and hope that will fix those problems. I really doubt both of those sensors went bad at the same time.
2) look over your wiring for your distributer

Good luck with this stuff man, hopefully I'll be down this weekend with the turbo, oil line kit, and some help. If you don't get a thermostat by then, I know I have a "no fail" extra one lying around that I could give you this weekend. Later.

 

The IAT and IACV will mess with your idle if they are not right. Other than that the distributer problem can also contribute to a bad idle. I wish I had another obdo dizzy to give you to try, but I dont...

 

Hey man, do you still have those obd2 injectors in your car? If not could I trade you some different injectors for them since I found someone who needs obd2s for the car this b16 is going into. Thanks man and good luck again.

 

i switched the wires around for the IAT and IACV, but im still throwing codes 9 and 14. ill switch the distrbutor wires see if that helps anything, and im guessing if im throwing code 14 my IACV sensor is bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shrug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i switched the wires around for the IAT and IACV, but im still throwing codes 9 and 14. ill switch the distrbutor wires see if that helps anything, and im guessing if im throwing code 14 my IACV sensor is bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the IACV...
To clean it you can just take it off, spray carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner inside of it, let it dry and make sure it is all degunked and decarboned, and attach it back on with one of those O-ring gaskets in that full engine gasket kit you have. Reset your ecu again, check the wire that goes to it for crackes, make sure the connections are corrosion free and solidly on there, and it should run fine. If it STILL throws the code for the IACV you can get one for cheap or I might be able to get you a free deal on one this weekend.

For the Dizzy...go with your instinct and make sure your wiring is good. If you think the dizzy will never be the same again, you can get an obd0 one, that is good, and used, for about $35 shipped...I see the things for sale all the time. The obd0 ones go for cheap, the obd1 LS dizzys are the pricier ones.

After that you should be golden.

I was hoping to get to help you this weekend, but I had a ****-ton of papers to grade, so I couldn't do anything until late sunday night...sorry man. I think Matt is planning on stopping in sometime this week with my stuff to sell you. Like always, good luck with the car!

How has your overheating problem been since it's full of coolant?

 

my over heating problem should be good now, i havent let it get up to temp yet but i let the car idle for a bit with out the cap on so it could drain the air of the the system.

since its only two wires im going to try switching them, if that doesnt work ill just switch them back and try a new dizzy. i have an obd2 dizzy, are they worth any money?

ill have to try cleaning out the IACV and hope that works, that part of the engine is deffinately a pain in the *** to work on though lol pretty hard to reach.

thanks for the tips dan, and everyone else. hopefully i can get my hands on a 1g BOV and some of the other parts i need to finish up and ill have a sweet sleeper sooner rather than later.

 

Yeah man, it sounds like you will. Check out homemadeturbo.com for the best prices on those BOVs

 

The obd2 LS dizzies are hard to sell honestly. I had a mint one minus the cap for a while and I only got $35 shipped for the damn thing. With the cap around $40 shipped should be the selling price.

 

switched the dizzy wires and code 14 went away. wehn i let it idle for a bit, 14 pops back up in like 20 seconds.

 

A clean should fix that IACV. Matt told me he should by tonight so hopefully you two can get it running perfect.

 

matt stopped by, the turbo is much bigger than the old t25 i had for my d series setup. and i like it! he didnt really take a look at my car, just mentioned that its one of three possible things. my wiring, the distributor is bad or the ecu is bad. i dont think its my wiring, i deffinately have it in the right ecu pins and checked switched the wires, the way i have it now is how i think it belongs since its only throws the code after ten seconds rather than constantly. he said he'll bring down his diz to check and see if thats the problem next time he comes down, along wtih the standard t3 exhaust housing. ill have to give the IACV a good clean see if that helps that.

seems like this thread is just me and you now dan lol

 

Haha, yeah it is...oh well.

I'm glad you like the turbo. It should work nicely to make a fast spooling car for you. Hopefully cleaning the IACV will do the trick and switching out the dizzy might be a help to narrow this problem down at least (but I don't really think it's related anymore) Later man.

 

i dont understand why its off for the first few seconds the car is on and then throws the code? im hoping its just the distributor, if not something less serious, CELs are getting kind of lame...

if anyone else wants to chime in and offer some input feel free lol.

btw thanks for the towel dan haha! matt said the turbo was off a daytona, which is funny, there was one at shortys when i went the other day to find a turbo for my buddies accord but the motor was pulled. ill give him a call tomorrow to see if he wants that manifold

 

I'll chim in here so you guys don't get lonely

If your friend wants another one of those turbos I'll keep an eye out for one


Get your car streetable and then bring it up our way and we can work out some of the bugs in a garage and not on the street

 

haha this thread is funny the two people helping me anyway are responding most.

it will drive, the over heating is fixed. just those two codes now. its just out of inspection and loud! if the police around you dont mind loud cars then id say i could bring it up whenever, if they do though the expired inspection might be a problem.

im going to go clean that IACV now. hopefully the only bug to work out will be code 14