got motor repaired now having trouble with tranny shifting
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From: tHe LOnEsTar StAtE biches, TX
just recently got my motor repaired now im having a little trouble shifting gears. I never had problems with my tranny in every gear it would shift smooth with no grinds. Every gear goes in but now it goes in with some trouble and also im also starting to hear the throw out bearing. Also is it normal when i press the clutch and i c the rpms go down from 900 to 800-700??
side notes he did use an alignment tool for the clutch he was touching hte inside of the flywheel and clutch i heard this was a no no.
side notes he did use an alignment tool for the clutch he was touching hte inside of the flywheel and clutch i heard this was a no no.
You dont want to get any grease or oils on the clutch or flywheel surface. it will cause slippage.
on my car the rpm's dont drop when i push the clutch in only when in neutral.
on my car the rpm's dont drop when i push the clutch in only when in neutral.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrewMD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on my car the rpm's dont drop when i push the clutch in only when in neutral.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the **** are you talking about? Unless you have an automatic transmission, the rpms do indeed drop when you push in the clutch because - for all intents and purposes - that IS neutral. Neutral isn't a gear, douche: it's the state of NOT BEING IN A GEAR, executed by taking the gearshift lever out of the "H-pattern" or pressing the clutch and, thus, disengaging the gearbox entirely.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_tuned »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so dropping rpms is not a good sign??
could be the timing?? do i have to bleed the master cylinder??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Timing would have nothing to do with your transmission. You bleed the clutch system through the slave cylinder, not the master. You can try that - it would be a good start.
Also, since you just had your engine worked on, why don't you tell us what the hell they did to it? Did it not occur to you that such information might be helpful for us to know?
What the **** are you talking about? Unless you have an automatic transmission, the rpms do indeed drop when you push in the clutch because - for all intents and purposes - that IS neutral. Neutral isn't a gear, douche: it's the state of NOT BEING IN A GEAR, executed by taking the gearshift lever out of the "H-pattern" or pressing the clutch and, thus, disengaging the gearbox entirely.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_tuned »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so dropping rpms is not a good sign??
could be the timing?? do i have to bleed the master cylinder??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Timing would have nothing to do with your transmission. You bleed the clutch system through the slave cylinder, not the master. You can try that - it would be a good start.
Also, since you just had your engine worked on, why don't you tell us what the hell they did to it? Did it not occur to you that such information might be helpful for us to know?
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From: tHe LOnEsTar StAtE biches, TX
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the **** are you talking about? Unless you have an automatic transmission, the rpms do indeed drop when you push in the clutch because - for all intents and purposes - that IS neutral. Neutral isn't a gear, douche: it's the state of NOT BEING IN A GEAR, executed by taking the gearshift lever out of the "H-pattern" or pressing the clutch and, thus, disengaging the gearbox entirely.
Timing would have nothing to do with your transmission. You bleed the clutch system through the slave cylinder, not the master. You can try that - it would be a good start.
Also, since you just had your engine worked on, why don't you tell us what the hell they did to it? Did it not occur to you that such information might be helpful for us to know?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the crankshaft was replaced with a new one. what happened is that the keyway got worned out and the crank pulley was spunning around. in order to fix the problem the mechanic had to take out the motor then the tranny to work on the crank.
Timing would have nothing to do with your transmission. You bleed the clutch system through the slave cylinder, not the master. You can try that - it would be a good start.
Also, since you just had your engine worked on, why don't you tell us what the hell they did to it? Did it not occur to you that such information might be helpful for us to know?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the crankshaft was replaced with a new one. what happened is that the keyway got worned out and the crank pulley was spunning around. in order to fix the problem the mechanic had to take out the motor then the tranny to work on the crank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_tuned »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the crankshaft was replaced with a new one. what happened is that the keyway got worned out and the crank pulley was spunning around. in order to fix the problem the mechanic had to take out the motor then the tranny to work on the crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you say, "Also is it normal when i press the clutch and i c the rpms go down from 900 to 800-700??" are you talking about while in neutral? If so, that shouldn't be happening. If your tach reads 900rpm when your foot isn't on the clutch in neutral and then the idle falls back down to 700-800 when you step on the pedal, that indicates that the clutch could be slightly contacting the flywheel when in neutral.
Have you talked to the mechanic about these issues?
When you say, "Also is it normal when i press the clutch and i c the rpms go down from 900 to 800-700??" are you talking about while in neutral? If so, that shouldn't be happening. If your tach reads 900rpm when your foot isn't on the clutch in neutral and then the idle falls back down to 700-800 when you step on the pedal, that indicates that the clutch could be slightly contacting the flywheel when in neutral.
Have you talked to the mechanic about these issues?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When you say, "Also is it normal when i press the clutch and i c the rpms go down from 900 to 800-700??" are you talking about while in neutral? If so, that shouldn't be happening. If your tach reads 900rpm when your foot isn't on the clutch in neutral and then the idle falls back down to 700-800 when you step on the pedal, that indicates that the clutch could be slightly contacting the flywheel when in neutral.
Have you talked to the mechanic about these issues?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know what could cause that, but that sounds partially right to me. Don't forget, that in some cases, when you're putting your foot on the clutch (coming to a light or something) you're also going to be using the brakes, and that vaccum difference can cause small changes in idle like that.
When you say, "Also is it normal when i press the clutch and i c the rpms go down from 900 to 800-700??" are you talking about while in neutral? If so, that shouldn't be happening. If your tach reads 900rpm when your foot isn't on the clutch in neutral and then the idle falls back down to 700-800 when you step on the pedal, that indicates that the clutch could be slightly contacting the flywheel when in neutral.
Have you talked to the mechanic about these issues?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know what could cause that, but that sounds partially right to me. Don't forget, that in some cases, when you're putting your foot on the clutch (coming to a light or something) you're also going to be using the brakes, and that vaccum difference can cause small changes in idle like that.
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Thread Starter
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From: tHe LOnEsTar StAtE biches, TX
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damm bro you probably paid a **** load to fix your motor. i hope this wasnt your stock motor. you shoulda just got a swap. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the mechanic is a friend of mine so he just charged me 250 for the work but i ended up spending like 350 in parts. i wanted to with a swap but i didnt want to risk of buying motor and paying for shipping just to find out the motor doesnt work and get screwed.
to the other question this happens when i have it in gear and neutral.
the mechanic is a friend of mine so he just charged me 250 for the work but i ended up spending like 350 in parts. i wanted to with a swap but i didnt want to risk of buying motor and paying for shipping just to find out the motor doesnt work and get screwed.
to the other question this happens when i have it in gear and neutral.
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