can anyone help me figure out how this is possible. I have a 2000 ek d1678 motor stock originally with a t3/4 turbonetics turbo. That one had broken and the perpellers scratched up against the housing and im some metal in the oil. but i got the oil flushed every option at Jiffy Lub for 160 bills. i got a new garret t3/4 and put that in. I draged it once down the street first time the intercooler piping came loose. Fixed that and the second time the the turbo stopped producing boost. i looked at it n there was oil in the air filter pipe and the perpeller was already loose. But the bolt was torked down properly and tight. How is this possible the only thing i could think of was the oil was bad but it looked fine to me. And the oil line wasnt that bad either. Is it possible it could break it within just a few min??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ferd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i got the oil flushed every option at Jiffy Lub for 160 bills. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's all I read.

 

so you have two garrett turbos that are toast?

 

ummm oil doesnt break a turbo

sounds like you bought a junk turbo from the start.... where either one used before?

 

you apparently have a very large boost leak somewhere, and you are overspinning the **** out of those turbos, causing them to self destruct... Seen it many times before...

 

My guess is you aren't running an oil restrictor (or its still too big), and are running it before the oil is warmed up enough. My motor oil sees ~80psi before it warms up, and 60+ psi into the center section of a turbo is an easy way to ruin seals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My guess is you aren't running an oil restrictor (or its still too big), and are running it before the oil is warmed up enough. My motor oil sees ~80psi before it warms up, and 60+ psi into the center section of a turbo is an easy way to ruin seals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My thoughts as well.

Even with an oil restrictor you can get oil in the compressor housing, the backing plate might also be a problem. Where both turbos new or were they used? But all of this usually takes a little more than one pass. I would go over your setup.

 

I'm betting all of you are wrong and his drain line is kinked or something along those lines. One pass with no restrictor is not going to blow a turbo that fast. And you cannot leak oil though a backing plate.

Buying a turbo off ebay doesn't help. lol

 

did you get the oil flushed while the turbo was on the car? thats stuff is like running kerosene instead of oil. it is very thin, and the spinning turbo may not have had the normal oil cushion.

 

blown seals?

 

share your oil feed line setup, oil return line, air filter?? what type of oil do your run not that it should matter but just wondering..

 

Everyone is always saying blown seals, do any of you know what the seals are made of? How they work?

 

That depends on the seal type, and where its leaking. For leaks in the housing, its dynamic, encapsulated or four-piece carbon for the shaft seal - at least for Garrett. The most common for new turbos is dynamic, which works like the most common exhaust seal on most old/new garretts - almost like a piston's ring. The two carbon seals work similarly, by nearly contacting each other, one with a spring, one with an odd hat-shaped piece.

There's also the rubber seal around the thrust bearing in most turbos, which can be blown outwards from pressure. That would leak between the chra and the backplate.

Its possible there could be a kink, but if there's oil leaking in the amount he says, I doubt it. It doesn't need much oil for lube, but it does need to stay cool. Oil-cooled only with very low oil flow would cook the oil before it was allowed to exit.

 

did you make sure to tighten all the bolts when you clocked your turbo?

 

i bought the garret turbo brand new from the factory i sent it back to get rebuilt becuase i have a warentee but i dont want the same thing to happen again

 

dont goto jiffy lube.. are you insane?

 

metal cant get from the turbines to the oil... so u pissed away 160$ on that.


second the shaft will always feel loose in the bearings, thats normal. (unless bb)

third, u dont seem like a very smart individual to boot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont goto jiffy lube.. are you insane?</TD></TR></TABLE> You have a turbo car and you can't change your own oil?