Today was the big day, but it didn't go like I had hoped. Here's what I went up with:

I/H/E
Magnaflow cat
12lb flywheel
64mm TB with matched intake
Crower stage 1 cams with adjustable gears
Fairly heavy 17" rims (didn't cheat and throw my light weight 15's on for the day)

I went down there with Team Blindside to tune the car. To hook up the wideband, we had to remove my muffler, so the videos I post later will be pretty loud. First two runs went fine, just establishing everything. Next run they tried to lean out my AF, which threw a CEL as soon as they touched it. There were unable to do any ECU tuning because of this. Right now I have a chipped P14 with an approximate chip. Anyway, after we gave up on that, we adjusted the gears, which in itself leaned it out a little, and gave me 15 more HP on the top, as well as a much beefier midrange (which was my goal, we could have had more on top if I wanted). In the end, I had 137 HP, 138 TQ with an AF of about 13. Now, this was on a Mustang dyno, so it's 17% lower than a dynojet. Now, just before we pulled it off, we did one last run with the muffler on back on and I lost almost 20 HP and TQ. So I learned two lessons today. There's a reason no one chips the P14, and Pacesetter really does suck. Anyway, graph and videos to come (uploading now)

 

what kind of motor do you have?

 

get p28 or p72

 

H23 with 176k, 175 PSI on each cylinder

 

danm the stock muffler really soaks up hp
sure is quiet tho

 

Oh, it's not stock. It's a 2.5" Pacesetter dual tip. I had heard horror stories, and it even felt like the car was weaker when I put it on, but I thought it was in my head. He also recommended a P06, but I think he forgot about the lack of support for my secondaries. Blindside mostly does turbo Hondas, where they usually remove the secondaries or get a whole new intake


Modified by InvaderTrax at 9:51 PM 3/13/2007

 

You should add the 2.5" collector for your header to your next to do list
do you have a true 2.5" exhuast?

 

Yup. Exhaust is 2.5" mandrel bent with the Magnaflow cat and 12" resonator. Anyway, here's the graph

 

Thanks for sharing! There don't seem to be many H23 guys working on their engines. A P28 type ECU would give you more ability to tune, but those A/F don't look all that bad.

 

Your #'s aren't that bad for a mustang dyno. If you use 15% (conservative) lower than a dynojet, then you come up with about 161 HP & 162 TQ if it was a dynojet. Most stock H23's with IHE are in the low 140's for HP. It must feel pretty decent for driving around town (ie. below 4500 rpm)

 

So when're the cams going in?

Pirate

 

Hahah, yesss that's where us H23 boys gain the most. Our stock cams stop making power around 5,2000rpm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GraphiteMW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hahah, yesss that's where us H23 boys gain the most. Our stock cams stop making power around 5,2000rpm </TD></TR></TABLE>

Work on the exhaust a little. You will pick up a little power after a characteristic H-Series dip at 5600ish rpm. Technically my OEM cams peaked at 6000rpm. Example:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....A.GIF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luder94-ChrisA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your #'s aren't that bad for a mustang dyno. If you use 15% (conservative) lower than a dynojet, then you come up with about 161 HP & 162 TQ if it was a dynojet. Most stock H23's with IHE are in the low 140's for HP. It must feel pretty decent for driving around town (ie. below 4500 rpm) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock H22's should dyno in that range, 155-165ish.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So when're the cams going in?

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Stock H22's should dyno in that range, 155-165ish.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, with a lot less torque down low
I've had both motors & H23 is still my favorite for driving around town
But my H22 kicks its butt on the racetrack

 

Even before the tune I was schooling basically stock H22's and GSR hatches. Even one of those new Civic SI's

 

looks like good numbers.

i want to get a set of cams, to bump up the power a little.

p.s. my stock cams died at 5500 for me.

 

what's your WHP goal br4h?

 

Well, I was hoping for 150 Mustang HP, which would be about 175 dynojet, which is more or less 200 crank

 

Nice I am shooting for 190whp with my build. H23 of course. How much miles do you have your motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I was hoping for 150 Mustang HP, which would be about 175 dynojet, which is more or less 200 crank</TD></TR></TABLE>

What kind of Intake Manifold do you have? I picked up some nice gains on my N/A integra w/ that and an ok tune. Or you could just throw some juice on that bish...

 

It's a stock manifold with a 64mm maxbore.com TB and matched opening

 

Does the stock H23 have secondary butterflies like the H22's? Or is it single stage? What kind of IM's do they make for the H23 anyways? Seems like theres some power just locked up in your tune as well.

 

^yes it has secondaries...

As far as i know, there is only one aftermarket H23 intake manifold (obx) but i think Blacktrax sells some...

 

Blacktrax sells some but I read the dyno's and I believe the guy lost some at the low range and gained it back up high. Better off just getting the oem im port and polished.

btw subscribed, some reason i am VERY attracted to all motor h23 builds. :D