UPDATE:After reading whats below , the next post I have a Update on the car!

Well I made a thread recently regarding my car running like **** after running excellent for about 4 months. Basically my car started bogging under heavy and even light throttle thru all RPM Ranges I even lost power BIG TIME. So the car has been doing this for about two weeks and I've been DD the car as is because bogging went away if kept the accelerator lightly tapped in some gears.(My car was driveable with the bog but just not really poweful at all). So today I was on E go to a gas station put a nice full tank of gas. Now before I pulled out of the gas station my RPMS were kinda going crazy (which I had just got a used distributor 4 months and no probelms)So i go **** my battery is dying or my alternator cable got fucked up again so i shut off my radio and put my turn signal because that helps me indicate if my batterry is gonna go dead because my CEL light would dim everytime it blinks but that wasnt the case the cel didnt blink so battery had power..So all the sudden im about a mile down after leaving the gas station RPMS go crazy again car starts to backfire/bog REALLY BAD i would WOT it and it just had the sound of shutting down after a high rev. So a little more then 1/2 a mile later the car bogs to hell backfires like a **** ...and pooof engines off im rolling to the side of the road. I checked all fluids , oil, spark plug wires to make sure they were in right. rechecked all connections and fuses. Try to start the car 10 mins later nothing. Got it towed home by a friend let it sit for a hour to cool down ...Still nothing. SO what the hell messed up now? SPECS are
D15B,I/H/E,Si Tranny,FPR,P28. I tryed reseting ECU nothing either. So remember before thise happend my car was already bogging and backfiring but NOT to a point where the car cannot be droven even on a highway.

HELP !

 

UPDATE:I just went outside since the car has been sitting off for a good 3-4 hours without being touched or tryed to get started. Press the key started up just fine no pinging or knocking if any sort just a loud squeal that seems to be from the alternator belt it only ran 10 seconds on idles and then just turned off I HAVE NOT tried to restart it again anyone have any ideas?

 

bump i just tryed again nd it started up a littkle longer im jut lettin it idle

 

The Engine is starting up but just wont stay on longer then a few seconds.

 

free bump for my buddy come htech we need this car for thursday...

 

tell me about what happened with ur alternator cable problems. I think i might be having the same thing.

 

my car didn't backfire, but it did die once while driving. 24 hrs later, i restarted it, and drove it around, then it died again, never could start it again.

turned out to be my dizzy...gl with yours

 

mien did that minus backfiring....my alternator was unpluged

 

I had a problem simular to this two day ago in my G/F driveway. It tured out to be a bad ground.

 

check grounding points and alt cable. wish i was local to take a look

 

it can be a bad ground, or it might be your fuel pump?

 

Im starting to think the dizzy went bad because of the backfiring/bogging throughout a little heavy acceleration. Also if the fuel pum was bad then the car wouldnt turn on at all correct? I checked all grounds and they are all good not like they were touched in the past anywaysz bump anyone else?

 

Did you take each ground off the car clean the contact point on the frame and the end of the wire. really look at the connection on the ring terminal bend the wire and look for corrosion and frayed/ broken wires? And yes a car can run with a fuel pump that is going bad. It might run great then just die check you fuel pressure next time it wont start have a friend bang on the fuel tank and see if it will start. If it does then you have a bad fuel pump

 

no if the fuel pump isn't copletely dead it will start but can't build enough pressure to keep the car running hence it dies after a few sec.

 

So the bad fuel pump couldve also been causing my bogging/backfiring?

 

yeah if there isn't enough fuell pressure it would deffinently bog down i guess it could back fire too.

 

Yeap im about to go get a new fuel pump im gonna try some other things before this but more then likely it could be that because i definatively have spark so yea.air for sure and fuels gotta be the problem

 

WEll yea i just tried to turn it on for the first time today turned on in one turn of the key as usual....idled for about a good 10 seconds then same process as before shuts off and it wont turn back on....SO im about to go get a FUEL PUMP is EVERYONE sure it can be most likely a faulty Fuel Pump?I have timing set correctly,dizzy is giving my spark plugs spark...i changed spark plugs as well and I banged the fuel pump while trying to start the car it just wouldnt come alive....ALSO can anyone explain why my RPM gauge was going crazy before the car finally turned off? The RPMS has to do with the dizzy correct ? I just tried to start the car and the RPMS were moving up and down between 700 to 900 rpms with the key in the start position

 

might want to check the main relay under the driverside dash

 

if ur not sure its the fuel pump dont buy the part
u should be able to hear the pump turn on plain as day when u put the key in the on posistion. if not there is one more thing pointing to the fact.

 

Fuel Pump IS not the problem just bought a ******* used one and didnt solve my problem but w.e at least i can eliminate that. Pump is activating hows its supposed to and priming. Im starting to take a look at the dizzy

 

May want to read this and get back to us.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1922346

 

WEll I just checked for Spark....NO spark at all on all 4 cylinder dizzy fried....So should I change the Coil ?

 

What color wires do you have going into your distributor?

 

I BELIEVE the black/yellow wire going into the distributor is the "ignition" wire (or wire that feeds full battery voltage). If you have one and/or able to test it. Use a multi-meter and set it ot VOLTAGE! Not amperage or ohms. But set to volts and check it, use the black wire of the multimeter on a good ground, and use the red end to penetrate the Black/Yellow wire. Now with everything connected, have someone turn the car all the way ON, but not "Crank". It should read 12-12.5 Volts or so. If you have proper voltage, then it's "most likely" the coil.

If your not getting proper voltage, let us know, we will go from there.


Edit: If you don't have a Volt meter, use a test light, use a good ground, penitrate the wire, and have the car turned on, if nice and bright, "most likely" your getting full voltage and again, probability of being a coil is rather high.