So I finally got a chance to test my car!

Main Run:

95 Prelude VTEC (H22A1) with following mods:

- Prelude typeS dynamic chamber intake with a K&N drop-in filter
- Greddy header with a 2.5" collector
- 2.5" mendrel bent piping, STOCK muffler.
- AEM tru-power pulleys
- Exedy OEM replacement clutch
- Fidanza lightweight flywheel
- Forbidden short shifter


Comparison run:

Same car, same motor, bone stock.


NOTE: The main run is a complete 1/4mile run, but with a miss-shift from 3rd to 4th (which I quickly recovered from).
The comparison run was a 0-60mph test but 1/8mile was reached (though I did let let it coast a bit before the mark). This was still enough to make a good comparison between the two. I would do a HP/TQ test but I can't get the RPM calibrated at the moment. I think it's because of the AEM pulleys. (Gtech picks up RPM signal via cig. lighter, off the alternator noise). I'll have to play with it a little to get it to work.

 

Oh, I forgot to add a few things....

This was in L.A. but I'm not sure of the exact elevation. Outside temp was about 70 with minimal wind. You will notice a difference in weight. That's because I have taken out some junk from da trunk, then lighter wheels, flywheel, pulleys, seats... It is the net weight of the car + my own weight and a 1/4 tank of gas. Comparison run - weight of the car + my weight + 1/2 tank of fuel + toolbox
But the weight plays no role in any of this except HP/TQ tests.

 

nice! my friend has a gtech pro I tried it on my f22 lude but i had my cig lighter wired into a diff power so it wudnt read rmps either. i need to take it out with my h22 lude. thx for reminding me about it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice! my friend has a gtech pro I tried it on my f22 lude but i had my cig lighter wired into a diff power so it wudnt read rmps either. i need to take it out with my h22 lude. thx for reminding me about it</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, I haven't used mine in a while either. My RPM was always ok until I installed the AEM pulleys. They whine too much and scramble the alternator noise that Gtech looks for. If I don't get it to work I'll just hook it up straight to the alternator and voila - problem solved

But even without the RPM signal, Gtech RR will show peak hp. Of course, it is then pointless as you can't view the whole power band and TQ numbers are either 0 or something bogus, like 1500 ft-lb. Damn that typeR sticker made a huge difference!!
And that's pretty much the only thing that's affected by the lack of a solid RPM signal.
Everything else still works. So my peak hp from that main run was 182. But once I get it hardwired to the alternator I'll make a few more HP/TQ runs. These should be more accurate and into detail.

 

I don't see how the cams would change the signal unless it changed the timing also. Even then I don't get it.

Would you mind to explain why you think that is the problem?

Thanks.

btw I think gtech may be the best bet for the street tune.

 

how accurate are those?

 

I'd like to see this VS a real time slip from a track from the same run.

 

You call that quickly recovered?

Looks like a nice device though, again i wonder how accurate it is too.

 

The data shows weight reduction. What did you do to cut weight?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see how the cams would change the signal unless it changed the timing also. Even then I don't get it.

Would you mind to explain why you think that is the problem?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not cams, AEM pulleys.

 

I might be going to the track friday ima try and work it out so i use the gtech and to compare the track times and gtech times. well c.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joinerneal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how accurate are those?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are very accurate. Gtech accelerometers are the same ones found in guided missiles of the US army. It's a 3axial accelerometer unlike most of others on the market. Our tests show 1/100 sec. accuracy in a 1/4 mile.
Of course, it will not always show exact same time as on a track. That depends on your settings; pitch factor correction, rollout distance, etc. In other words, you have to match Gtech settings to your staging (deep stage or shallow stage). That's because the track timer is activated by a beam your wheel crosses as you're taking off. Gtech timer is activated when the accelerometer detects movement of the car. A lot of people are not aware of these things and those are the ones that claim Gtech is not accurate. Those who know what they're doing will not have that problem. Just look at reviews from different magazines and TV shows.

http://www.gtechpro.com/accuracy.html

There you can see a run at a track, and results compared.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The data shows weight reduction. What did you do to cut weight?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You will notice a difference in weight. That's because I have taken out some junk from da trunk, then lighter wheels, flywheel, pulleys, seats... It is the net weight of the car + my own weight and a 1/4 tank of gas. Comparison run - weight of the car + my weight + 1/2 tank of fuel + toolbox
But the weight plays no role in any of this except HP/TQ tests.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GtechPro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL, I haven't used mine in a while either. My RPM was always ok until I installed the AEM pulleys. They whine too much and scramble the alternator noise that Gtech looks for. If I don't get it to work I'll just hook it up straight to the alternator and voila - problem solved

But even without the RPM signal, Gtech RR will show peak hp. Of course, it is then pointless as you can't view the whole power band and TQ numbers are either 0 or something bogus, like 1500 ft-lb. Damn that typeR sticker made a huge difference!!
And that's pretty much the only thing that's affected by the lack of a solid RPM signal.
Everything else still works. So my peak hp from that main run was 182. But once I get it hardwired to the alternator I'll make a few more HP/TQ runs. These should be more accurate and into detail. </TD></TR></TABLE>

note that the thing most likely senses alternator rpm and tries to create a relation between that and the engine rpm

that relation is going to be different now that you have underdriven the alternator with that pulley.

 

Would it be possible that it uses the disturbances created by the charging and discharging of the coil? That seems like a better solution for making the whole thing compatable for many cars, if it would work.

Does the thing have an input for a tach signal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">note that the thing most likely senses alternator rpm and tries to create a relation between that and the engine rpm

that relation is going to be different now that you have underdriven the alternator with that pulley.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That shouldn't be a problem. During calibration, Gtech asks you to rev the engine to certain RPM points and push a button, registering the alternator speed vs engine speed. It then makes necessary compensations on it's own. The problem here is a much higher frequency noise of the signal and Gtech is unable to filter it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would it be possible that it uses the disturbances created by the charging and discharging of the coil? That seems like a better solution for making the whole thing compatable for many cars, if it would work.

Does the thing have an input for a tach signal?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't have an input for a tach signal. The whole point was to make it as simple as possible with no wiring involved.

 

That makes sense, but I'm thinking that Gtech didn't do their research. Well then again maybe they have it right. It just seems like the people that are interested in buying something like this would rather have a more effective unit in exchange for ease of use. Its possible they are shooting for the frat boy lemme-pop-my-collar-while-you-are-impressed-with-my-gtech-pro clientele

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That makes sense, but I'm thinking that Gtech didn't do their research. Well then again maybe they have it right. It just seems like the people that are interested in buying something like this would rather have a more effective unit in exchange for ease of use. Its possible they are shooting for the frat boy lemme-pop-my-collar-while-you-are-impressed-with-my-gtech-pro clientele</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's your opinion and that's fine. You have your own criteria and you're judging the product based on that alone. Of course, you're not a tad bit familiar with our side of the story.

A LOT of research went into it. Don't forget that Gtech was the first company to make a plug n play performance meter back in '94. Before that, you had to buy thousands of dollars worth of equipment, you had to spend hours hooking it up, and so on.

Gtech IS very effective, we have lots of happy customers all over the world. Road racers, drag racers, autoXers, young and old... Any Joe Blow can hook it up and operate it with ease. The goal was to make it accurate, simple and compact, and to target a broader market. If our main target were tuners, guys who know how to wire stuff and who don't mind doing that kind of stuff to their cars, it would be very simple. I would want it that way too. But what about a guy who just bought a new M5 or a Ferrari? Most of them just don't want to do any wiring and they want to keep their cars the way they are. Then you have people with multiple cars who want to be able to switch it from car to car, people with diesels, etc. And we pretty much covered all those fields with success.
And don't forget that all this also had to be affordable. It's not only research and development that are involved in making a product. We're always limited by a load of other factors. Yes, we can make a unit that will have every feature you could possibly want, we could even make it bulletproof, BUT would you be willing to pay $1500 instead of $200/300? People who know what it takes to make something like this, and to make it reliable and affordable, always ask how we menaged to keep the prices that low. And the answer is exactly what I just wrote above; sell a lot of them, which means target a greater market, every car enthusiast from stunna Joe Blow to an experienced race car driver. Look at the list of features and you tell me where else you can get that for the same money. Call around to see how much a single 3-axis accelerometer costs, never mind everything else.

The fact that we we have won numerous SEMA and other awards and that we sold loads of them all over the globe, speaks for it self. And do you really think we didn't think of the tach signal? Heh, don't be silly




Modified by GtechPro at 12:56 PM 3/15/2007

 

if you dont mind my asking..... what is your position in the company? you seem to know your stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joinerneal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you dont mind my asking..... what is your position in the company? you seem to know your stuff </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm a tech.

 

so is that a serial data port on the back?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joinerneal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so is that a serial data port on the back? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, yes, I know... And I've been pushing for the USB, but apparently more people still have older computers and serial ports. But a serial to USB adapter will solve that problem.

 

lol, tell em to get new computers if they're still using that crap, or you can really blow em away and use firewire, or even bluetooth. I guess those adapters are pretty cheap on the internet, but most local stores want $40 + for one.

 

i have the passport g timer
when i went to the strip w it my times were excataly the same