anyone had problems with FRAM oil filters?
so my buddy got done putting his motor together yesterday morning and started the breakin procedure. Was driving fine and he decided to open it up. He hit 7500 RPMs and the motor bucked and lost power. Looked at his oil pressure and it was LOW LOW.
He towed the car home, changed the oil and changed the oil filter. Oil pressure went back up, the motor revved good, but he knew there was something still wrong. Dropped the oil pan and removed the rod bearings. 2 and 3 werent so bad but 1 and 4 were really messed up. He came to the conclusion that it was oil starvation by the oil filter considering 1 and 4 are the last to get oil and those were the worst, not to mention oil pressure rose back to normal after changing to a new filter.
anyone else had problems with these filters?
He towed the car home, changed the oil and changed the oil filter. Oil pressure went back up, the motor revved good, but he knew there was something still wrong. Dropped the oil pan and removed the rod bearings. 2 and 3 werent so bad but 1 and 4 were really messed up. He came to the conclusion that it was oil starvation by the oil filter considering 1 and 4 are the last to get oil and those were the worst, not to mention oil pressure rose back to normal after changing to a new filter.
anyone else had problems with these filters?
How did you conclude it was the filter? Just because it lost oil? Cut the filter apart and see if there is any reason that the filter caused the failure. It could have been any number of things. I might be wrong but i think the factory U.S. honda filters are made by fram.
because the inside bearings didnt get much wear and receive oil first, but the 1 and 4 bearings get oil last which means there was oil starvation. And the fact that when he changed the oil and filter, oil pressure went back up to normal.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PeopleAgainstJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he was probably low on oil to begin with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hes not stupid.
hes not stupid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phil M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did they have the correct clearance? Were they each measured? What was the clearance?</TD></TR></TABLE>
he measured everything. He knows how to build a motor correctly, thats not the problem.
he measured everything. He knows how to build a motor correctly, thats not the problem.
uh id def take everything apart and be postivie it was the oil filter before u come on here givin fram a bad name iv never had a problem with there filters and will always use them
are you not listening?
he changed the oil and filter and everything went back to normal, but the damage had already been done to the bearings.
The motor is running now with new stuff that replaced the beat up parts just so he could get to work and stuff. But its not going to last long because its knocking. Just slapped everything together cuz he had to make it happen.
I am asking if anyone else has had a problem with these filters, does this thread look like a thread for bashing a product? dont think so.
he changed the oil and filter and everything went back to normal, but the damage had already been done to the bearings.
The motor is running now with new stuff that replaced the beat up parts just so he could get to work and stuff. But its not going to last long because its knocking. Just slapped everything together cuz he had to make it happen.
I am asking if anyone else has had a problem with these filters, does this thread look like a thread for bashing a product? dont think so.
well i have a couple of friends that use fram with fully built motors. ones n/a and the other turbo, and they've never had any trouble. i use them on all my cars and they work fine for me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zzcoupezz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i have a couple of friends that use fram with fully built motors. ones n/a and the other turbo, and they've never had any trouble. i use them on all my cars and they work fine for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
millions of people have run them with no problems. I'm looking for the people who have had problems before. Its great it works fine for you but there is always a chance something will mess up for other people. In this case, we believe it was caused by the filter.
Obviously the pick up had shards of metal in it, as well as the oil pan. Everything was cleaned immensely prior to installation.
millions of people have run them with no problems. I'm looking for the people who have had problems before. Its great it works fine for you but there is always a chance something will mess up for other people. In this case, we believe it was caused by the filter.
Obviously the pick up had shards of metal in it, as well as the oil pan. Everything was cleaned immensely prior to installation.
I use hamp oil filters...on my hondas...but I havent heard bad stuff about fram...does he have an OEM oil pan or something like a moroso?..
if it is an aftermarket oil pan..that could possibly starve the motor from oil...or something could be clogging the oil from going up and back down to the oil squirters.
if it is an aftermarket oil pan..that could possibly starve the motor from oil...or something could be clogging the oil from going up and back down to the oil squirters.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
he measured everything. He knows how to build a motor correctly, thats not the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so my buddy got done putting his motor together yesterday morning and started the breakin procedure. Was driving fine and he decided to open it up. He hit 7500 RPMs and the....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does anyone else take their fresh engine during break in period up to almost redline?
he measured everything. He knows how to build a motor correctly, thats not the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so my buddy got done putting his motor together yesterday morning and started the breakin procedure. Was driving fine and he decided to open it up. He hit 7500 RPMs and the....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does anyone else take their fresh engine during break in period up to almost redline?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gibsanez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
does anyone else take their fresh engine during break in period up to almost redline?</TD></TR></TABLE>
now, why wouldnt you?? wha bearing need to break in? lol explain yourself.
the filter was on my engine.
lost oil pressure during break in.
0 psi at idle, 7 at around 1500 and no more than 20 at after 3k. which leads me to believe that the release spring was working
#1 and 4 rods and 1 nad 5 mains are the worse ones
got it towed home, 1st thing i tried is changing oil filter...voila pressure went right back to normal
gonna cut the filter open today.
oil pick up had bearing scrap on it but not clogged. oil never left the top mark
oil pump gears are scared but tested within spec
and i HAVE had a fram oil filter clog up on me before. not to this extent though.
im not saying fram sucks (or maybe i do) but its just my opinion
does anyone else take their fresh engine during break in period up to almost redline?</TD></TR></TABLE>
now, why wouldnt you?? wha bearing need to break in? lol explain yourself.
the filter was on my engine.
lost oil pressure during break in.
0 psi at idle, 7 at around 1500 and no more than 20 at after 3k. which leads me to believe that the release spring was working
#1 and 4 rods and 1 nad 5 mains are the worse ones
got it towed home, 1st thing i tried is changing oil filter...voila pressure went right back to normal
gonna cut the filter open today.
oil pick up had bearing scrap on it but not clogged. oil never left the top mark
oil pump gears are scared but tested within spec
and i HAVE had a fram oil filter clog up on me before. not to this extent though.
im not saying fram sucks (or maybe i do) but its just my opinion
Had a few buddies have the filter actually implode on itself.. while on the dyno
fram has made some good / bad filters, i dont run their filters.. I run k&n/mob filters. I ran fram one time and after a buddy came to me and said he lost his 7k motor because the filter imploded and what not i was like never. Sorry to hear about that, i would contact fram about this..
fram has made some good / bad filters, i dont run their filters.. I run k&n/mob filters. I ran fram one time and after a buddy came to me and said he lost his 7k motor because the filter imploded and what not i was like never. Sorry to hear about that, i would contact fram about this..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so my buddy got done putting his motor together yesterday morning and started the breakin procedure. Was driving fine and he decided to open it up. He hit 7500 RPMs and the motor bucked and lost power. Looked at his oil pressure and it was LOW LOW.
He towed the car home, changed the oil and changed the oil filter. Oil pressure went back up, the motor revved good, but he knew there was something still wrong. Dropped the oil pan and removed the rod bearings. 2 and 3 werent so bad but 1 and 4 were really messed up. He came to the conclusion that it was oil starvation by the oil filter considering 1 and 4 are the last to get oil and those were the worst, not to mention oil pressure rose back to normal after changing to a new filter.
anyone else had problems with these filters?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the idiot who asked why would you take a freshly built motor to almost redline?? Because its the correct way to break the motor in, breaking in the motor consist of doing one thing, Seating the rings.. your not breaking in bearings, or rods or anything of that sort.. your tryin to seat the rings correctly..
how bout you use that search feature before you try to clown on someone.
He towed the car home, changed the oil and changed the oil filter. Oil pressure went back up, the motor revved good, but he knew there was something still wrong. Dropped the oil pan and removed the rod bearings. 2 and 3 werent so bad but 1 and 4 were really messed up. He came to the conclusion that it was oil starvation by the oil filter considering 1 and 4 are the last to get oil and those were the worst, not to mention oil pressure rose back to normal after changing to a new filter.
anyone else had problems with these filters?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the idiot who asked why would you take a freshly built motor to almost redline?? Because its the correct way to break the motor in, breaking in the motor consist of doing one thing, Seating the rings.. your not breaking in bearings, or rods or anything of that sort.. your tryin to seat the rings correctly..
how bout you use that search feature before you try to clown on someone.
I used to always use fram back in the day and never had a problem. But after searching around and finding the nickname "orange can of death" I stopped and now use wix/napa gold filters on everything.
i definatly changing my filter.
sorry about your engine, how many miles were on the engine?
do you have a in car oil pressure gauge or did you hook up a tester after the fact
sorry about your engine, how many miles were on the engine?
do you have a in car oil pressure gauge or did you hook up a tester after the fact
Fram is a brand name filter, made god only knows where anymore, built to the lowest (cheap) standards. They have no place on any engine that I own. You might have invested thousands in your build, are you going to use a $3.00 or $4.00 filter? I will happily spend $11.00 on a Mobil 1 filter. There was a comparison on the North Texas Prelude Owners Group website, they cut a bunch of new filters apart and compared quality. If you can find that, you will never buy another cheap oil filter. I can tell you that Fram has had significant QC issues in the past. Specifically, oil filters that would blow off the engine at high rpm, because the female threads were slightly oversized. This happened on a large number of motorcycle filters, under roadracing conditions. For those of you who aren't familiar with motorcycle roadracing, when your filter comes off and oils your rear tire, while you are leaned over at 120 MPH, VERY BAD THINGS HAPPEN! I don't know if the filter caused the problem you described, but I will never buy another Fram product.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i definatly changing my filter.
sorry about your engine, how many miles were on the engine?
do you have a in car oil pressure gauge or did you hook up a tester after the fact </TD></TR></TABLE>
motor had about 10 miles on it. use a in car mechanical oil pressure gauge.
car bogged and when i looked it was pushing 20psi of pressure at 5k rpms...
sorry about your engine, how many miles were on the engine?
do you have a in car oil pressure gauge or did you hook up a tester after the fact </TD></TR></TABLE>
motor had about 10 miles on it. use a in car mechanical oil pressure gauge.
car bogged and when i looked it was pushing 20psi of pressure at 5k rpms...
10 miles, DANM
how many times did you change the oil after the first startup?
i changed my oil about three times before i ever put the car on the road
how many times did you change the oil after the first startup?
i changed my oil about three times before i ever put the car on the road



