OK, I'm attempting my first car alarm install. I think I picked the hardest model to attempt this with. It's a Compustar 2w900fm with remote start and pager. The instructions were written by a tech who obviously wasn't thinking of a novice installing this. My question is on a few of the wires in a couple of harnesses.

1. CN2 Harness - Black wire - Instructions say it's the "Status Out" wire and you would connect to a Transponder Module or VATS module. What are those?

2. It has several references to a 2nd accessory or 2nd starter or 2nd ign. How do I know if I will be hooking these up?

3. CN 5 Harness - Orange Wire - This is the Re-arm wire - Instructions say it provides with a (-) pulse when armed after remote start and then again one second after remote start shutsdown. Where does this wire connect?

Thanks guys, I read the posts about having someone install for you but didn't expect to run into this many quesitons.

Thanks in advance.

 

well transponder is the chip in the key. its so your remote start can work.

2nd acc or ign.. well i have never seen any of these on a honda

the re arm wire is to re arm a factory alarm or could be used to turn off a fuel kill.

so your prly not gonna need any of those wires.

 

Thanks for the reply. I should have started by saying that the car is an 1995 Honda Accord.....so there's no chip in the key. Is there somewhere else the wire should connect to?

 

you should be fine with out it.

 

remember that the alarm is only as good as the install. read around on how to make it look 'stealth' or look more like factory installed wires so if it is broken in, that will slow them down even more

 

Thanks for the reply. I've read around looking at the stealth install and plan to do the same. I'm just not sure what the wire have listed are for?

thanks

 

Alarms are made to be universal and work with all types of cars. Well, every manufacturer wires their car up differently. Some cars have multiple starter wires, multiple ignition wires, immobilizers built into the key, etc. Luckily for you, Hondas are some of the easiest cars to put alarms on.

1. don't use

2. Your car doesn't have multiple starter, ignition, or accessory wires.

3. This is used to trigger a start kill relay. Many remote start alarms don't have a seperate start kill relay because this function is built into the remote start capability of the alarm.

Yes, Compustar instructions are some of the worst.

 

Thanks for your help.
I'm still a little confused on where to connect some of these wires. Maybe they get connected together to a positive constant power source?

Thanks

 

http://www.directwholesale.net...eID=3 Here is a tag in sheet.
First thing I would ask is your car an auto or manual transmission?

As has been mentioned your car does not have a "chipped" key, so bypass module is not needed, and if your car is an auto transmission neither is the black lead, [CN2/2].

I would start by removing, [depining] any leads you do not need....

CN1 remove the 2nd ign./acc./starter relay and it's wiring.

CN2 none are needed if your car is an auto transmission, just don't use the plug.

CN3 you do not need /1 light blue, [unless car is a manual transmission] /6 red, /7 brown/black, /8 brown/white.

CN4 you do not need /2 violet/white, [unless installing trunk release] /3 orange/black

CN5 you do not need /1 orange, /2 orange/white, /3 violet, [unless doing dome light supervision] /5 white, [ unless using stock horn] /6 and /7 yellow and yellow/white, [unless you need EXT functions]

One other thing, if your car is an auto transmission, don't forget to cut the jumper loop

This is not a difficult alarm/starter to install, it will have the same number of wires to connect to the same wires in car as any alarm/starter.

Feel free to IM me if you have any other questions. 94

 

Sorry for the lack of info. My car is a 1995 Honda Accord 4cyl 5 spd.

OK, maybe I'm making this more difficult than it is. First, I think I've got
CN1 installed OK.

On CN2, pin#2, I'm not sure what the Status Out wire connects to? I'm assuming something impt. to communicate between car and brain.

On CN3 - Pin 9 - I can't find the tach wire under the hood. I've researched and everyone says it's a blue wire, but I can't find it at the distributor. Could it be the green wire?

On CN4 - I ordered a trunk release kit and it should be here this week. I'll tackle this one later.

On CN 5 - Not sure where to connect Pin 1,2

Thanks again for your help

 

Jesus... Have you even read the posts above that FCM & SuspendedHatch took the time to type out??

 

OK, Thanks for all the help getting everything connected. The door locks and alarm on the Compustar 2W900FMR work great. Just one problem. The remote start isn't getting any power to the starter so it's not cranking over. It should be 12V at the brain but there's nothing. Going back to the relay there's no power on the 2 yellow wires coming out of the relay. I changed the relay and got the same thing.

Any ideas???

 

Did you program tach? 94

 

Yes. I programmed the tach and it seemed to be successful. Should have heard one chirp and I did. Spent an hour on the phone with Compustar tech support. They recommend I try another brain. I've got one on order. Has anyone else experienced this? Do I need a 12volt constant lead connected to the starter wire?

Thanks

 

You do not need a 12V constant connected to the starter.
What exactly happens when you press the remote start button?
What do the park lights do?
Please be exact. 94

 

dumb question. is the car a auto?

 

Thanks guys. When I press the start button, the ignition lights come on but it never tries to turn over. The lights will just stay on like you're wearing down the battery. I thought it might be the clutch bypass switch but I also tried it from inside the car with the clutch pressed in and same thing.

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by compint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, Thanks for all the help getting everything connected. The door locks and alarm on the Compustar 2W900FMR work great. Just one problem. The remote start isn't getting any power to the starter so it's not cranking over. It should be 12V at the brain but there's nothing. Going back to the relay there's no power on the 2 yellow wires coming out of the relay. I changed the relay and got the same thing.

Any ideas??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

the yellow wires on compustar should be connected to the starter wire in the car. if i remember right...you should cut the car's starter wire and connect one side of it to the yellow and the other side to the other yellow. just make sure that the remote starts output for the starter is going away from the ignition cylinder or you will feed 12v+ into the switch and fry it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> just make sure that the remote starts output for the starter is going away from the ignition cylinder or you will feed 12v+ into the switch and fry it. </TD></TR></TABLE>Now how would sending 12V+ into a 12V+ circuit, that is open by the way, "fry" anything?? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now how would sending 12V+ into a 12V+ circuit, that is open by the way, "fry" anything?? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have ever accidentally wired 5 wire locks improperly...then you would know exactly what i'm talking about

 

Not the same thing, on a 5 wire locking system the motor wires are both ground when switch is at rest, and yes I have done a few hundred or so.
Putting 12V+ to a ground would be a bad thing, nothing more then a blown fuse, if fused properly.
A starter wire, [from ign. switch] is open or 12V+.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not the same thing, on a 5 wire locking system the motor wires are both ground when switch is at rest, and yes I have done a few hundred or so.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pwnt.

 

OK, problem was the brain. Replaced the brain and she fired right up with remote start. Since this is my first install, I didn't mount the brain first. I wanted to make sure everything worked. I there a good place under the dash of a 95 accord to mount it? It looks tight.

Thanks again