alright heres the specs I will be going with (in 1 week or so):
head:
crower 403 cams
Skunk2 cam gears
supertech dual valve springs, ti retainers and seats
plastic intake gasket
mild port and polish job (by me)
valve job
mill head .027"

block:
SRP pistons (10.7:1 rated cr)
eagle rods
acl bearings

overall CR should be exactly 11.01:1

tuning will be done in crome with pr4 obd1 ecu and LC-1 wideband kit

how many rpms and how much hp should be estimated out of this?

thanks!

 

anyone else build their LS for NA?

 

search under b19coupe's name he made 215+ on an 85x89 LS motor N/A

 

that looks like a really good build and an amazing project thread...

anyone build their ls with stock bore? 81x89?

 

again, anyone have stock bore, built non-vtec la motor? and hp and compression numbers?

 

Start Reading...

You are the first person to get this link, even though I'm not nearly done. Enjoy.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1923227

 

I'm not looking into ls-vtec anymore... however I did come accross some a couple really thorough ones...

I mentioned before "built non-vtec la motor" but I meant ls instead of la

 

okay I am half way done with the engine stuff now
I just got JDM 1-peice headlighs, which are a really nice change on the looks compared to bubble-eyed egay racing lights the car came with...

costs so far have been:
head/head work/pistons/rods/cams/valve springs/etc... :$1974
head lights: $160
Tuning parts (wideband kit/chip burner/chip kit/datalog kit):$315
Suspension (eibach springs/bushings):$299
subtotal:$2748

future desire to spend on:
tokiko illumina shocks/other half of bushings needed :$488
Header/exhaust: $600 (maybe, although the stock header is pretty efficient already on this car)
appearance: HID lights, driverside fender (and paint):$460
subtotal:$1548


pictures:
new headlights


engine bay at start


engine bay before head removal


head removed, surface scraped (block de-greased before head removed)


head pictures of my port and polishing... before valve job and milling







I will get my head back from the machine shop today, and hopefully see rod bearings in the mail too... then I will reassemble stuff (and hone the cylinders)
also waiting on one more piston lock from JE as I just discovered last night I was short one

 

I had a fully built non-vtec da.

404 cams, retianers, springs, aries forged pistons, shotpeened rods, knife edge crank, milled head, p&p head, ARP Rod bolts and head studs, blah blah blah.

I revved mine to 8500-8700 usually, your 403s arnt quite as agressive as the 404s so you might not have power up there. Not sure about your hp but I would say 190ish maybe.


Modified by mike5809 at 8:11 PM 3/21/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike5809 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure about your hp but I would say 190ish to 200 maybe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ha ha maybe with a 50 shot

with stock header, cat and exhaust i see this motor putting down no more then 140whp

get a nice header, test pipe 2.5" exhaust and you should be around 160-170 whp maybe a little higher

 

Well I was saying that is possible number with supporting mods implied; a good header, exhaust, real good tuning, hondat or something like that, fpr, fuel work, etc

* ok well i saw the p&p was done by himself, i thought he got a shop to do it so it might be a bit less but 180-185 should be no problem with all other mods.

 

i have a test pipe... and the design of the 92-93 ls header (4-2-1) is probably good enough for me, as spending an extra $300 for 2 more hp isn't a big thrill for me. I may do 2.25" exhaust later, but id toes have a straight through ricer muffler for the time being.
I shouldn't need a 2.5" exhaust unless I am running higher than 2.0L since there is more air moving through the engine... but 2.25" should be perfect for this motor, and help with torque a little too.

I am sticking with a stock intake manifold because after reading up on other builds, most of the short-runner intake manifolds reduce power and torque until you hit 6500+ rpms which is the only place it makes more power, which would be fine if I were drag racing all over...

as far as tuning goes, I have all the materials, but am still trying to learn what makes for good tuning practice, but eventually will get dyno tuned I imagine as there is a dyno shop near my house now

ps. the port and polish job: I did it, my first ever, and I probably wouldn't do it again due to the extreme amount of time it took to do. I would be thrilled if what I did made a 5hp difference, but I have my doubts lol. all I really did was smooth everything out and grind off the casting marks, and then polish it up real nice

 

I'm going to do a very mild build on mine. Itr pistons and probably crower 403 or 404s with a couple small other boltons.

 

Search for user nicklk. I don't know if he posts here anymore. He had a fully built NA LS motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ritalin.v2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to do a very mild build on mine. Itr pistons and probably crower 403 or 404s with a couple small other boltons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you do 404s you will need cam gears, fpr, maybe a fuel pump(i did), new ecu or chipped, cam gears, upgraded valvetrain, and a p&p head would be a good idea, and lots of tuning. The 404s are a beefy cam, not very good for DD or mostly street car.

also you would want higher cr pistons then itr. 404s love high cr.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike5809 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you do 404s you will need cam gears, fpr, maybe a fuel pump(i did), new ecu or chipped, cam gears, upgraded valvetrain, and a p&p head would be a good idea, and lots of tuning. The 404s are a beefy cam, not very good for DD or mostly street car.

also you would want higher cr pistons then itr. 404s love high cr.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard that the 404s don't always feel like a good power band below 4k rpms, and thats part of the reason why I chose the 403s instead... better for daily driving, and no loppy idle (from too much overlap) even with 403s you need valve springs, and higher compression than the stock ls motor puts out.

and for an update:
my head did not get done today, but its okay because I still need stuff to show up in the mail: ES bushings of sorts (engine mount things too) rod bearings, and I needed one more piston ring lock thinggy, as the set I bought from someone else only had 7 for some reason (but hey I still saved like $200 hehe).

I honed the cylinders, definately not quite a 60 degree crosshatch, but I've never done it before and I'm okay with it.


new pistons and rods:



honing (I used 10-W30 full synthetic oil and a flex-hone):



painted valve cover and exhaust heat shield low gloss high temp black (this valve cover is @#%$ed up so its just my beater one that I will cut the side open for tuning purposes, I have a perfect stock one in my garage I will be using after tuning is complete. still looks 20 times better than the blue it had before...



Modified by aaronhume at 6:18 PM 3/21/2007

 

mike5809,

so do you think I would be safe to rev to 8k? I will not be replacing the main bearings, just rod bearings and I am using arp studs and bolts, etc... and have the supertech dual valve springs, valve job, and so on...

I would be fine with seeing 160whp on the dyno but would love to see more once more tuning is done

ps. I also have a light flywheel and what I was told is a stage 3 clutch

 

update:
just finished lightly porting the exhaust header and A-pipe openings mainly to get carbon off, and smooth it a little.

I just found another compression calculator online: http://www.zealautowerks.com/

and with all the stats for a b18a with 81.0mm bore and +3.4cc pistons and milling the head .027" I get 11.59:1 compression ratio! the c-speedracing one told me 11.01:1 and instead of inputing milling the head I changed the head cc's on that calculator to 41.4661 cc from 45.0 cc stock.... doign the same thing in the other calculator did not change the compression ratio, so I know my head cc calculation is right... crazy, huh? I can still stick with 92 octane gas hopefully...? I think a gas station near me might be selling 93 now but maybe their sign was wrong heh.


oh ya and I got my head back today, it looks real nice on the bottom and they assembled the valvetrain for me total cost=$106 after tax! hehe nice discount... should have been around $225 for what all they did. I will get a pic up tomorow probably when it is bright and shining outside.

 

todays update:
installed front and rear engine mount inserts, got catalytic converter out and found out what was rattling... half of the guts of the cat are broken and in pieces inside it! haha then I installed the test pipe (angle grinders are an incredibly good tool to have when bolts don't want to move or are rusted in place hehe)

still no ideas about real compression?

 

update:

I'm still waiting for bearings and a piston lock to come in the mail, so I did a couple cleaning things...

completely degreased: rocker arms, cam caps and bolts, oil pan and girdle nuts and bolts, timing covers, exhaust header nuts and bolts, and many more bolts....

and I port-matched my intake manifold... that was a pain in the butt, but hopefully it should be a smoother change from the small intake ports on the manifold to the normal intake ports on the head....

I have my head back, and it looks very nice.

head surface


valve springs


intake manifold


header



I still need advise on the compression calculators...

 

nice work ...

 

so I finally got my missing part in the mail...

got all the pistons installed, head installed, intake manifold installed, exhaust manifold installed, timing belt perfect, valves adjusted, all other belts installed, etc... just about ready to get it running!

I still don't know if the compression ratio is 11.01:1 or 11.59:1 if anyone can help that would be nice!

 

update: everything is put back together... and fluids in, everything connected, etc...

one problem: the car will not start

ecu is working, it gives me info on my laptop
fuel pump primes like a charm, has pressure too.
has spark, according to a timing light, as I am working on this alone...
not sure what to do next...

everything functioned fine prior to pulling apart/headgasket failure.

 

quick update:

got the car running, I found out the catalytic converter was plugged, and I also found out my head gasket is still leaking, so I will rip everything apart and get the block resurfaced which I should have done from the beginning...

 

Nice work...