Tips for installing front control arms - Orijin Bushings..
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Funfax, VA, United States
Does anyone have any tips/pointers for putting these little bastards back on the car, I seem to have them lined up, but the bolt will just not go through the metal bearing and through the other side.. biggest PITA yet, and this is the last thing from getting my car done.
Also the other side is a bitch too - driver side everything lined up nicely. But the driver side the compliance bushings wont seem to line up. I checked all the castings on the LCA's to make sure in fact they are correct (Civic)..
Am i just going nuts, or do i need another beer?
thanks!
Also the other side is a bitch too - driver side everything lined up nicely. But the driver side the compliance bushings wont seem to line up. I checked all the castings on the LCA's to make sure in fact they are correct (Civic)..
Am i just going nuts, or do i need another beer?
thanks!
The bolt wont go through the spherical bearing huh?
This worries me as I just got my Origin setup in and will be installing soon.
I'm installing Mugen Compliance Bushings as well so I hope I don't end up with the same problem you are, I'm just staying with the PolyU shock mount bushing that is already there though.
Is your shock unbolted or anything in a bind?
This worries me as I just got my Origin setup in and will be installing soon.
I'm installing Mugen Compliance Bushings as well so I hope I don't end up with the same problem you are, I'm just staying with the PolyU shock mount bushing that is already there though.
Is your shock unbolted or anything in a bind?
Thread Starter
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From: Funfax, VA, United States
shock is unbolted..
I believe the bolt is passing through the bearing, just wont go thru the last poly 'spacer'...
and i have no clue about the passenger side, im off to work. might tackle this later when im angrier and tired..
I believe the bolt is passing through the bearing, just wont go thru the last poly 'spacer'...
and i have no clue about the passenger side, im off to work. might tackle this later when im angrier and tired..
You need another beer....
Note sure that I can add much but they installed fine for me..... I'll state the obvious but double check the fit of the parts off the car to make sure a small burr or similar is not holding the bolt up as it passes through the bushing. The tolerances are tight, as they should be. I fought with mine and then used the impact to turn the bolt while I pressed on it. Worked a lot better
good luck
Note sure that I can add much but they installed fine for me..... I'll state the obvious but double check the fit of the parts off the car to make sure a small burr or similar is not holding the bolt up as it passes through the bushing. The tolerances are tight, as they should be. I fought with mine and then used the impact to turn the bolt while I pressed on it. Worked a lot better
good luck
navin-its not you. they just are a pain in the *** to put back together. like someone else said, make sure the bolt passes through the berring and the spacers with everything appart.
what i did with my car was put everything together loose. that gave me just enough play to get those PITA bolts to lign up. then snug everything back up.
-spenc
beer will probably work too
what i did with my car was put everything together loose. that gave me just enough play to get those PITA bolts to lign up. then snug everything back up.
-spenc
beer will probably work too
i used a screw driver and stick it in there get it all straight and put the bolt in. its pretty frustrating trying to get them to line up so yu can put the bolt in.
do not use a hammer to tap the bolt in. i did that on the driver side like a retard and the nut inside the subframe came off. i had to drill a hole and put a nut in there.
do not use a hammer to tap the bolt in. i did that on the driver side like a retard and the nut inside the subframe came off. i had to drill a hole and put a nut in there.
the first set of bushing and washer is easy to line up. after you get that far just put the washer and bushing on the bolt then use a jack to push the lca up to line up the bolt hole. it also helps to have someone help you incase you need the lca to be twisted/wiggled while you push in the bolt.
Modified by 98SpecR at 3:40 PM 3/11/2007
Modified by 98SpecR at 3:40 PM 3/11/2007
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As IP2GSR said, tolerances are tiiite, and it has to be like that.
This then brings on more difficult installation because everything needs to line up almost perfectly to be able to pass the bolt through all the different components.
The screwdriver trick usually works good,
i try and use a pointed one or a phillips with a good size ( 1/4" + )
The easiest way to install the front LCAS is to have everything unbolt from them
( radius shock and knuckle ball joint )
so that you can play with it more easily.
line up all the components while inserting the LCA into the subframe notch
( don't forget to pack it with mechanical grease before you do so )
And when it is in place, either use a small tapered end bolt or a screwdriver to try and have it all line up correclty.
There is very little tolerance wich will alow the bolt to go through...once used to it, it usually take only a few minutes for each side.
Don't use a hammer to puch the bolt through,
this could dommage the parts and break the solder on the subframe nut.
There is not magic, but a little patience is required to have it all lined up properly.
Hope this help, since i can't do much more
( other than installing it for you if you can afford to drive up to here
)
let me know if i can be of any more help,
or call at the shop during working hours
This then brings on more difficult installation because everything needs to line up almost perfectly to be able to pass the bolt through all the different components.
The screwdriver trick usually works good,
i try and use a pointed one or a phillips with a good size ( 1/4" + )
The easiest way to install the front LCAS is to have everything unbolt from them
( radius shock and knuckle ball joint )
so that you can play with it more easily.
line up all the components while inserting the LCA into the subframe notch
( don't forget to pack it with mechanical grease before you do so )
And when it is in place, either use a small tapered end bolt or a screwdriver to try and have it all line up correclty.
There is very little tolerance wich will alow the bolt to go through...once used to it, it usually take only a few minutes for each side.
Don't use a hammer to puch the bolt through,
this could dommage the parts and break the solder on the subframe nut.
There is not magic, but a little patience is required to have it all lined up properly.
Hope this help, since i can't do much more
( other than installing it for you if you can afford to drive up to here
)let me know if i can be of any more help,
or call at the shop during working hours
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,180
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From: Funfax, VA, United States
wow, thats some customer service... Orijin and Jim
actually got them in today, just took some beers and friend to come over and help...
actually got them in today, just took some beers and friend to come over and help...
I did this last night.
*I found it very helpfull to split the lower arm in two and only deal with the long peice so you can twist it easier and install bushing easier. Also taking it free from the spindle and shock is needed obviously (I had shock all the way out.)
*Once the sleeve is in the arm I put a slight film of Redline CV-2 high pressure grease in the sleeve (axle/cv/wheelbearing grease)
*insert bearing
*pack with Grease
* Insert dowl pin like things into grease
*pass bolt through
*put washer on both sides
*put poly spacer on both sides
*cleaned and slightly lubed pivot location on car
*stuck that arm up in there (bottom of arm resting ondetached sway bar and or ground (working under car on jack stands)
*used a 1/4 ratchet with a drive extension on it to line up the peices
- Note that the poly bushing/washer/sleeve had to be forced in there on the open side b/c of the way that location is made. could have used a smaller poly bushing to make this 1st part easier
*wedged bolt in there best I could with twisting motion and forcing the poly bushing up with my other hand
*typically getting the bolt through the bearing was easy
*Hard part/cross your fingers is getting through the 2nd sleeve
* still cross your fingers to start threading the bolt
Viola!! done. to get first side in it took me close to 10 minutes I think, second side was less than 5 minutes. Just a very rough guess.
Have fun!
*I found it very helpfull to split the lower arm in two and only deal with the long peice so you can twist it easier and install bushing easier. Also taking it free from the spindle and shock is needed obviously (I had shock all the way out.)
*Once the sleeve is in the arm I put a slight film of Redline CV-2 high pressure grease in the sleeve (axle/cv/wheelbearing grease)
*insert bearing
*pack with Grease
* Insert dowl pin like things into grease
*pass bolt through
*put washer on both sides
*put poly spacer on both sides
*cleaned and slightly lubed pivot location on car
*stuck that arm up in there (bottom of arm resting ondetached sway bar and or ground (working under car on jack stands)
*used a 1/4 ratchet with a drive extension on it to line up the peices
- Note that the poly bushing/washer/sleeve had to be forced in there on the open side b/c of the way that location is made. could have used a smaller poly bushing to make this 1st part easier
*wedged bolt in there best I could with twisting motion and forcing the poly bushing up with my other hand
*typically getting the bolt through the bearing was easy
*Hard part/cross your fingers is getting through the 2nd sleeve
* still cross your fingers to start threading the bolt
Viola!! done. to get first side in it took me close to 10 minutes I think, second side was less than 5 minutes. Just a very rough guess.
Have fun!
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