is this bad??
i heard it clicking and took the tire off to see. the boot has broken (see pic) soo the quetsion is, how do i fix this?? do i need a cv joint or a whole new shaft?? and could i auto x on it as it is??

 

well that cv is toast. you could keep driving on it I guess. I know some people that have diven on them for a long time. You should probally just replace the whole axle.

 

that axle is completely shot, I wouldn't drive on that let alone auto-x, you can get complete alxes from auto zone with a lifetime warrenty

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416

 

the boot is bad, and if it's not clicking yet it will shortly. just replace the whole axle. you can pick one up w/lifetime warranty at just about any partstore.

 

ergh. any idea on a price?? and would i need any special tools to install it?

 

price is ? what side is it make year and model of car but you are talking around 100 or so depending on what you get. Make sure you ask for a cv that has a new outer joint on it. It will be about 20% more but is well worth it. No special tool gust your basic hand tools a pry bar/ hammer to knock the shaft out of the trans. don't forget after replacement to top off your trans fluid. good luck

 

on a average, they are about $80. depends were you go and what side, i believe the driverside is alittle more (atleast around here where i live).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">price is ? what side is it make year and model of car but you are talking around 100 or so depending on what you get. Make sure you ask for a cv that has a new outer joint on it. It will be about 20% more but is well worth it. No special tool gust your basic hand tools a pry bar/ hammer to knock the shaft out of the trans. don't forget after replacement to top off your trans fluid. good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't forget ball joint seperator.

here this should help!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
here this should help!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416</TD></TR></TABLE>

really??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

really?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

?

 

i just posted that link before you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just posted that link before you</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh, didn't noticed. i guess the op didn't either.

 

i just replaced my axles and it's like 140$ with a core deposit. so bring back the fucked up one and get back like 75$ so... about 60-70$ i'd think. that was for b series ones too.

 

well the car is a 97 civic dx its on the drivers side. so let me get this strait. if i go to autozone what do i tell them. i need a whole new axle and cv joint, or just axle. or just cv joint?? or are they connected and = the same thing?
sorry about bein so noob about this.

 

ask for the whole axle.

 

then after it's put in go take your old messed up one back to reclaim your core deposit you will have to pay.

 

DONE!!!! they didn't tell me to bring the core back tho, do i just do it or what

 

only if you want money back...
take it and your new axle receipt with you and get core $

 

step one. check to see if they have a drivers axle in stock.
2. have them hold it.
3. get out 19m socket and lossen lugnuts.l
4. get out 32mm socket and remove axle nut
5. get out jack and lift car. set on jack stand.
6. remove wheel
7. use 17mm socket and remove lower shock bolt and but.
8. get out 12mm and removed bolts holding brake line to shock.
9. remove cotter pin from lower balljoint
10. use 17mm socket to loosen lower balljoint castle nut so about 1/8 gap is between nut and lca.
11. get large hammer and hit lower control arm where balljoint is attached so ball joint lossens in lca.
12. removed ball joint castle nut and separate balljoint/lca.
13. pull hub assembly away from car and remove axle from hub.
14. use pry bar and pry axle out of transmission. pull lca down and remove axle.
15. take old axle in and purchase new axle.

install in reverse order.

if you take your core in first you save money by not paying tax on the $75 core charge.

 

the best is having a slammed car and ripping the boots and just returning them, and they keep stocking axles for you

I used to work there (at a NAPA auto parts store) and I did this about 10 times in my old hatch. Well worth the money.

We have had people break the axles at the track (the lifetime ones) and just return them for new ones. Can't beat it