HELP WITH EGR VALVE
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
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From: Lake Stevens, washington, united states
how hard it is to replace an EGR valve on a civic my scanner indicates there's a problem with not enough or to much something to do with the exhaust? If you have any input please let me know little red is dragging and idling like crap gas mileage still about 380 per tank
i hav the same problem. is it the code p0401: EGR flow insufficient.?
if so, don't replace ur EGR valve. i tried cleaning out my egr, running some seafoam through the egr ports, and i even replaced the egr valve and i still hav the cel. im still trying to figure out how to fix it.
if so, don't replace ur EGR valve. i tried cleaning out my egr, running some seafoam through the egr ports, and i even replaced the egr valve and i still hav the cel. im still trying to figure out how to fix it.
The bigmoose needs help here also. P0401 code on my 1997 Civic HX D16Y5 with 180,000 miles on it. I cleaned the EGR valve thoroughly. Code reset. I disassembled the EGR Valve and verified the EGR lift sensor, valve lift and flow. Code reset. I rodded out the manifold passages and blew air thru them. Code reset.
Insight would be much appreciated!
Insight would be much appreciated!
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why don't you guys try spraying brake cleaner through the egr passage ways. Then see if you can get some sort of pipe cleaner in there, like the kinds they use to clean out household furnaces, they have long flexible handles. And yeah try cleaning the valve itself. If that doesn't work, check your map and O2 sensors. Not sure how honda does it but i know GM will check for EGR actuation by looking for a decrease in manifold pressure for when EGR opens and many manufactures will use O2 input as well because there should be far less oxygen in the exhaust when EGR is working.
Ok, to help you other guys out. Got it solved here is the solution.
I tried to do a quick and dirty clean/blow out with air thru the EGR opening in the intake manifold. It didn't work. Take a few minutes, and remove the fuel rail and the fuel injectors. Then remove the top plate of the EGR section of the manifold. There are 6 screws that hold the cover on. If you are in the salt belt like me, the 6mm bolts will be corroded, they will want to snap. You don't want to drill and tap 6 of these! Heat the head of the bolt a bit, back it out a bit, then hit the head with a hammer thru a punch. This will break the corrosion bond. Keep this cycle up until you get the bolts out.
Then clean it up with a scraper and some carb cleaner. Ream the 4 holes out (about 3/16 inch diameter) that go into each runner from the main EGR cavity. Clean, reassemble and you will be good to go.
There was nothing wrong with my EGR Valve, and the serpentine EGR passsages were plugged solid their entire 4 inches.
I tried to do a quick and dirty clean/blow out with air thru the EGR opening in the intake manifold. It didn't work. Take a few minutes, and remove the fuel rail and the fuel injectors. Then remove the top plate of the EGR section of the manifold. There are 6 screws that hold the cover on. If you are in the salt belt like me, the 6mm bolts will be corroded, they will want to snap. You don't want to drill and tap 6 of these! Heat the head of the bolt a bit, back it out a bit, then hit the head with a hammer thru a punch. This will break the corrosion bond. Keep this cycle up until you get the bolts out.
Then clean it up with a scraper and some carb cleaner. Ream the 4 holes out (about 3/16 inch diameter) that go into each runner from the main EGR cavity. Clean, reassemble and you will be good to go.
There was nothing wrong with my EGR Valve, and the serpentine EGR passsages were plugged solid their entire 4 inches.
Ok, to help you other guys out. Got it solved here is the solution.
I tried to do a quick and dirty clean/blow out with air thru the EGR opening in the intake manifold. It didn't work. Take a few minutes, and remove the fuel rail and the fuel injectors. Then remove the top plate of the EGR section of the manifold. There are 6 screws that hold the cover on. If you are in the salt belt like me, the 6mm bolts will be corroded, they will want to snap. You don't want to drill and tap 6 of these! Heat the head of the bolt a bit, back it out a bit, then hit the head with a hammer thru a punch. This will break the corrosion bond. Keep this cycle up until you get the bolts out.
Then clean it up with a scraper and some carb cleaner. Ream the 4 holes out (about 3/16 inch diameter) that go into each runner from the main EGR cavity. Clean, reassemble and you will be good to go.
There was nothing wrong with my EGR Valve, and the serpentine EGR passsages were plugged solid their entire 4 inches.
I tried to do a quick and dirty clean/blow out with air thru the EGR opening in the intake manifold. It didn't work. Take a few minutes, and remove the fuel rail and the fuel injectors. Then remove the top plate of the EGR section of the manifold. There are 6 screws that hold the cover on. If you are in the salt belt like me, the 6mm bolts will be corroded, they will want to snap. You don't want to drill and tap 6 of these! Heat the head of the bolt a bit, back it out a bit, then hit the head with a hammer thru a punch. This will break the corrosion bond. Keep this cycle up until you get the bolts out.
Then clean it up with a scraper and some carb cleaner. Ream the 4 holes out (about 3/16 inch diameter) that go into each runner from the main EGR cavity. Clean, reassemble and you will be good to go.
There was nothing wrong with my EGR Valve, and the serpentine EGR passsages were plugged solid their entire 4 inches.
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