Well heres the story,

i installed a greddy kit on my Stock gsr motor , dropped the pan to get the return line fabbed in blah blah . re-installed it with new rubber gasket and sealer let it sit for about 2 days ... drove every other weekend at 8psi and all the sudden i see smoke thats the first oil pan gasket

The second time i took my time , used rtv sealer let it set up for awile , put gasket up and didnt over tourque bolts , put oil in and let sit for atleast 3 days in a heated garage. not after driving the car 4 more times (100 miles maby) i go to do a little check up on the car and make sure every thing is ok. and there is the leak again but not as bad ... it is just starting and im glad i cought it. its really starting to **** me off , and am willing to take suggestions from anyone , the pan does not seem to be bent also.

thanks for any advice

 

Either there's an irregularity in the block mating surface or the pan's bent.

 

IT could be the oil pan.i have a little leak as well.

 

I have the same issue. Re-did my oilpan gasket 3 times.. and each time there was a leak. I've come to the conclusion that my oil pan might be tweaked or something..

 

Maybe somehow too much crankcase pressure.

 

is the return welded on the pan? if so maybe it warped. Did you check if anything is interfering when you install it? anything stuck either on the pan or on the mating surface on the block thats not letting it sit right?

 

Don't use sealant. Just get a new gasket and clean the block mating surface well. I've seen sealant on pans cause more problems than it ever helps. Or your pan is warped.

 

Dont use sealant

possibly did you leave the little washers on the studs near the flywheel? On an OEm gasket, there are washers INSIDE the gasket for those two studs. I've seen too many people forget and leave them on, they have a tendency to stick.

You need to upgrade your PCV system.

 

Make sure you are using an OEM gasket and no sealant

 

New honda gasket, put a little bit of honda bond on the corners where the oil pump and rear main seal cover mate to the block. Than tighten the bolts using the right torqueing sequence. Don't know if your torque wrench goes down low enough but I usually torque them down in a 2-step sequence (4ftlb than 9ftlb).. Never had any leaks using this method.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

possibly did you leave the little washers on the studs near the flywheel? On an OEm gasket, there are washers INSIDE the gasket for those two studs. I've seen too many people forget and leave them on, they have a tendency to stick.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

that would be my suggestion as well. ive done this a few times and didnt realize it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that would be my suggestion as well. ive done this a few times and didnt realize it </TD></TR></TABLE>

seen this a thousand times(work at a Honda dealer) I have fallen victim to this as well. when you have the pan off this time check pan on a flat surface.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont use sealant</TD></TR></TABLE>

and torque to spec!

went through a pan gasket m'self last summer.

 

somehow your getting a bunch of crank case pressure.
check the following:
pcv valve
vent tub (kinked or mis-routed)
leakdown test of piston rings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">somehow your getting a bunch of crank case pressure.
check the following:
pcv valve
vent tub (kinked or mis-routed)
leakdown test of piston rings</TD></TR></TABLE>


come on man.....

we have blown the dip stick out of the hole, and not had a pan leak........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


come on man.....

we have blown the dip stick out of the hole, and not had a pan leak........</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow thats some major boost.


Oh and my honda manual recomend to use sealant by the oil pump and rear main seal. I will be replaceing my oil pan with a steel moroso pan and was gonna use permatex ulta gray for sealant. Should I not do that.
Moroso also recomends using a liquid gasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


come on man.....

we have blown the dip stick out of the hole, and not had a pan leak........</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha word. Mine shot out and almost hit a friend in the face last spring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Haha word. Mine shot out and almost hit a friend in the face last spring. </TD></TR></TABLE>

during a dyno session?

 

look in the helms manual for the proper installation of the oil pan. it tells you where to put hondabond and what torque sequence to use

 

I never said it wasn;t something else i jsut pointed out things you guys were not posting. this is a help section right? so I was jsut helping out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

during a dyno session?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha nope. Never made it that far. The fuckball that originally assembled my motor screwed something up and I was getting insane crankcase pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by katoeh2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow thats some major boost.


Oh and my honda manual recomend to use sealant by the oil pump and rear main seal. I will be replaceing my oil pan with a steel moroso pan and was gonna use permatex ulta gray for sealant. Should I not do that.
Moroso also recomends using a liquid gasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It would be best to use it in the 'stock' recommended areas. Its basicly because the rubber won't squish properly in the sharp corners where they recommend it. You only need a little for the very 'pit' of each area though.

 

Went to My honda dealer , got a new gasket and a tube of honda-bond....

installed everything and let sit for about 3-4 hours , started it and it didnt leak but i havent put it under load yet , waiting to get it tuned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOBEYYYYY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Went to My honda dealer , got a new gasket and a tube of honda-bond....

installed everything and let sit for about 3-4 hours , started it and it didnt leak but i havent put it under load yet , waiting to get it tuned </TD></TR></TABLE>


smart man be patient and make sure you double check your steps. i mess up when i rush so now i research and take it slow GL with the tune

 

When you start boostin, let us know the results.