'89 CRX HF - 2 questions (idle and CEL)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
'89 CRX HF - 2 questions (idle and CEL)
i did use the search button and have found some good information regarding the question that i have but nothing exact.
i'm new to the "crx" forum. i purchased this car last night as my daily commuter. it has about 168k miles and its a 89 w/ the stock 1.5 motor.
now for the question (2):
1. my idle doesnt fluctuate but when it heats up the car idles around 500-600 and it vibrates the car. i think if i move up the idle to about 800-1000, it should be fine. i havent messed with the idle adjust yet. i heard about cleaning the injectors, replacing the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, etc.. but would anyone know if this is can be fixed just by adjusting the idle? and where is the idle adjuster?
2. my check engine light comes on only on the fwy's.. but goes away when i shut down and restart the car. any ideas? (example: CEL came on when my friend jumped on the fwy as he was driving the car back to my house. fired it up this morning to drive to work and no CEL. got on the fwy and CEL came on again.. got to work.. turned off the car, waited 2 secs, turned it back on and the CEL was gone! any idea? i havent pulled the code. if someone can lead me to where i can read onhow to pull the code from my stock 89 crx hf (obdo0?), i'd appreciate it.
thanks in advance!
jimmy
i'm new to the "crx" forum. i purchased this car last night as my daily commuter. it has about 168k miles and its a 89 w/ the stock 1.5 motor.
now for the question (2):
1. my idle doesnt fluctuate but when it heats up the car idles around 500-600 and it vibrates the car. i think if i move up the idle to about 800-1000, it should be fine. i havent messed with the idle adjust yet. i heard about cleaning the injectors, replacing the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, etc.. but would anyone know if this is can be fixed just by adjusting the idle? and where is the idle adjuster?
2. my check engine light comes on only on the fwy's.. but goes away when i shut down and restart the car. any ideas? (example: CEL came on when my friend jumped on the fwy as he was driving the car back to my house. fired it up this morning to drive to work and no CEL. got on the fwy and CEL came on again.. got to work.. turned off the car, waited 2 secs, turned it back on and the CEL was gone! any idea? i havent pulled the code. if someone can lead me to where i can read onhow to pull the code from my stock 89 crx hf (obdo0?), i'd appreciate it.
thanks in advance!
jimmy
Stouts 'n' Scotch
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
The code should still be active on the ECU, pull back your passenger side footwell carpet and you should be able to see the light blinking. Count the number of blinks, that's your code, then you can check it in the FAQ here. As far as the idle it could be bad grounds or the car could simply need a tuneup. I'd try replacing some basic tuneup stuff before you go messing with the idle screw.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (HT Chaplain)
ok, i see it. it looks like code 1 (blink, pause, blink, pause, blink, etc..). does that sound right, or did i have to watch it for longer. i watched for about 20 blinks and it was consistent as above.
thanks guys,,
thanks guys,,
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (jchung)
okay,
tried replacing my o2 sensor twice (returned the 1st one). its not the actual sensor. it may be the wiring? i also heard that i could be a bad ecu...
the car runs fine after starting her up until the CEL comes on. when the CEL comes on the difference of drive is definitely noticeable. it gets a lot more boggy under 3k and there is definitely a lack of power. everytime i turn the engine off, and then turn it on, the CEL disappears, but i still have the red light blinking from the ecu. the car feels rough instantly when the CEL comes on, not the red blinking light. the CEL coming on varies everytime. this weekend it came on after about 5 mins of driving, where as other (majority) of times it comes on after 15 mins or so, approximately when i hit the fwy.
some random facts: the car is originally from texas. i know they have different emission restrictions. the car passed smog w/ out the CEL on. i resetted the ecu a few times by taking out the 10 fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. the o2 sensor is on tight. the car starts stinking after a long (25+ mile) fwy commute, which when my CEL is on. maybe the bogging is burning my clutch (because thats the smell).
any thoughts?
tried replacing my o2 sensor twice (returned the 1st one). its not the actual sensor. it may be the wiring? i also heard that i could be a bad ecu...
the car runs fine after starting her up until the CEL comes on. when the CEL comes on the difference of drive is definitely noticeable. it gets a lot more boggy under 3k and there is definitely a lack of power. everytime i turn the engine off, and then turn it on, the CEL disappears, but i still have the red light blinking from the ecu. the car feels rough instantly when the CEL comes on, not the red blinking light. the CEL coming on varies everytime. this weekend it came on after about 5 mins of driving, where as other (majority) of times it comes on after 15 mins or so, approximately when i hit the fwy.
some random facts: the car is originally from texas. i know they have different emission restrictions. the car passed smog w/ out the CEL on. i resetted the ecu a few times by taking out the 10 fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. the o2 sensor is on tight. the car starts stinking after a long (25+ mile) fwy commute, which when my CEL is on. maybe the bogging is burning my clutch (because thats the smell).
any thoughts?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (jchung)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jchung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay,
tried replacing my o2 sensor twice (returned the 1st one). its not the actual sensor. it may be the wiring? i also heard that i could be a bad ecu...
the car runs fine after starting her up until the CEL comes on. when the CEL comes on the difference of drive is definitely noticeable. it gets a lot more boggy under 3k and there is definitely a lack of power. everytime i turn the engine off, and then turn it on, the CEL disappears, but i still have the red light blinking from the ecu. the car feels rough instantly when the CEL comes on, not the red blinking light. the CEL coming on varies everytime. this weekend it came on after about 5 mins of driving, where as other (majority) of times it comes on after 15 mins or so, approximately when i hit the fwy.
some random facts: the car is originally from texas. i know they have different emission restrictions. the car passed smog w/ out the CEL on. i resetted the ecu a few times by taking out the 10 fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. the o2 sensor is on tight. the car starts stinking after a long (25+ mile) fwy commute, which when my CEL is on. maybe the bogging is burning my clutch (because thats the smell).
any thoughts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
^bump
tried replacing my o2 sensor twice (returned the 1st one). its not the actual sensor. it may be the wiring? i also heard that i could be a bad ecu...
the car runs fine after starting her up until the CEL comes on. when the CEL comes on the difference of drive is definitely noticeable. it gets a lot more boggy under 3k and there is definitely a lack of power. everytime i turn the engine off, and then turn it on, the CEL disappears, but i still have the red light blinking from the ecu. the car feels rough instantly when the CEL comes on, not the red blinking light. the CEL coming on varies everytime. this weekend it came on after about 5 mins of driving, where as other (majority) of times it comes on after 15 mins or so, approximately when i hit the fwy.
some random facts: the car is originally from texas. i know they have different emission restrictions. the car passed smog w/ out the CEL on. i resetted the ecu a few times by taking out the 10 fuse out from the fuse box under the hood. the o2 sensor is on tight. the car starts stinking after a long (25+ mile) fwy commute, which when my CEL is on. maybe the bogging is burning my clutch (because thats the smell).
any thoughts?
</TD></TR></TABLE>^bump
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (wiZCo)
hi wiz, 
hm.. the smell was like the clutch burning smell.. would the o2 sensor CEL come on because of the cat? i thought it wouldnt matter because the sensor is located in the headers before the cat..
hm.. the smell was like the clutch burning smell.. would the o2 sensor CEL come on because of the cat? i thought it wouldnt matter because the sensor is located in the headers before the cat..
Stouts 'n' Scotch
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
Re: (jchung)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jchung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi wiz,
hm.. the smell was like the clutch burning smell.. would the o2 sensor CEL come on because of the cat? i thought it wouldnt matter because the sensor is located in the headers before the cat..</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the O2 sensor wqouldn't be affected by a bad cat. Maybe it's something having to do with your exhaust manifold? Maybe you got some substance on it that is burning off? So your code is still for the O2 sensor? That would explain why it runs so rough after the CEL comes on..... wow, I'm pretty stumped right now. If the wiring and sensor are good but the code still comes up.... have you tried using a different ECU?
hm.. the smell was like the clutch burning smell.. would the o2 sensor CEL come on because of the cat? i thought it wouldnt matter because the sensor is located in the headers before the cat..</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the O2 sensor wqouldn't be affected by a bad cat. Maybe it's something having to do with your exhaust manifold? Maybe you got some substance on it that is burning off? So your code is still for the O2 sensor? That would explain why it runs so rough after the CEL comes on..... wow, I'm pretty stumped right now
. If the wiring and sensor are good but the code still comes up.... have you tried using a different ECU?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (wiZCo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, the O2 sensor wqouldn't be affected by a bad cat. Maybe it's something having to do with your exhaust manifold? Maybe you got some substance on it that is burning off? So your code is still for the O2 sensor? That would explain why it runs so rough after the CEL comes on..... wow, I'm pretty stumped right now. If the wiring and sensor are good but the code still comes up.... have you tried using a different ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the thought of using a different ecu passed my mind. there is a local guy who is selling his '90 HF ECU for $30. will that work? if not i'm sure i can get a '89 HF ECU.
hm, not sure about the exhaust manifold. it only runs rough after the CEL comes on, which is weird. it passed smog here in california, nonetheless.
i'm stumped too.
No, the O2 sensor wqouldn't be affected by a bad cat. Maybe it's something having to do with your exhaust manifold? Maybe you got some substance on it that is burning off? So your code is still for the O2 sensor? That would explain why it runs so rough after the CEL comes on..... wow, I'm pretty stumped right now
. If the wiring and sensor are good but the code still comes up.... have you tried using a different ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>the thought of using a different ecu passed my mind. there is a local guy who is selling his '90 HF ECU for $30. will that work? if not i'm sure i can get a '89 HF ECU.
hm, not sure about the exhaust manifold. it only runs rough after the CEL comes on, which is weird. it passed smog here in california, nonetheless.
i'm stumped too.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
From: 29909
Re: (jchung)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jchung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the thought of using a different ecu passed my mind. there is a local guy who is selling his '90 HF ECU for $30. will that work? if not i'm sure i can get a '89 HF ECU.
hm, not sure about the exhaust manifold. it only runs rough after the CEL comes on, which is weird. it passed smog here in california, nonetheless.
i'm stumped too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ECU will work, may not fix the issue though. If you have the spare cash it's worth a try.
When you put in the new O2 sensor did you reset the ECU? ie. Pull the Under Hood Fuse for "Hazard" then replace after 15 seconds had passed?
the thought of using a different ecu passed my mind. there is a local guy who is selling his '90 HF ECU for $30. will that work? if not i'm sure i can get a '89 HF ECU.
hm, not sure about the exhaust manifold. it only runs rough after the CEL comes on, which is weird. it passed smog here in california, nonetheless.
i'm stumped too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ECU will work, may not fix the issue though. If you have the spare cash it's worth a try.
When you put in the new O2 sensor did you reset the ECU? ie. Pull the Under Hood Fuse for "Hazard" then replace after 15 seconds had passed?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (BlueCrxNC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueCrxNC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The ECU will work, may not fix the issue though. If you have the spare cash it's worth a try.
When you put in the new O2 sensor did you reset the ECU? ie. Pull the Under Hood Fuse for "Hazard" then replace after 15 seconds had passed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is the 10 fuse, correct? i didnt put it in right after 15 secs but put it in after a bit of driving w/out it.
The ECU will work, may not fix the issue though. If you have the spare cash it's worth a try.
When you put in the new O2 sensor did you reset the ECU? ie. Pull the Under Hood Fuse for "Hazard" then replace after 15 seconds had passed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is the 10 fuse, correct? i didnt put it in right after 15 secs but put it in after a bit of driving w/out it.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Just reading this and I just recently bought myself a CRX as well...only problem(s) I have is the idle and smell...which isn't at high rpms or anything...just when the cars parked and running or running and at a stop it's idles funny in a sense of like gasping<-sp?=P for air...I found it's the IAC idle air control valve/motor the thing above the throttle...I basically unpluged the sensor iand it idels fine..I would clean the piece but not sure how...so I'm looking for a new IAC motor instead and other thing is the car stinks of gas? I guess it's just the whole exhaust system that needs replacing...car (CRX) was originally from AZ and I'm in WI so yeah...anyways good luck=P
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
From: 29909
Re: (jchung)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jchung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that is the 10 fuse, correct? i didnt put it in right after 15 secs but put it in after a bit of driving w/out it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think that it's a bad thing to drive without the fuse, but I personally wouldn't. You only need to remove it for a short period of time to reset the ECU; So you remove it for 15 secs or more, replace it, turn the car on and let it idle until the radiator fan comes on once. During that time you don't want to drive, rev, etc. It's just letting the ECU re-evaluate/calibrate or whatever. Turn car off and now act as normal.
that is the 10 fuse, correct? i didnt put it in right after 15 secs but put it in after a bit of driving w/out it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think that it's a bad thing to drive without the fuse, but I personally wouldn't. You only need to remove it for a short period of time to reset the ECU; So you remove it for 15 secs or more, replace it, turn the car on and let it idle until the radiator fan comes on once. During that time you don't want to drive, rev, etc. It's just letting the ECU re-evaluate/calibrate or whatever. Turn car off and now act as normal.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (wiZCo)
hey wiz,
i'm not sure what it is. my original assumption of the car running boggy only when the CEL comes on was proven wrong yesterday and this morning. it ran the same as when the CEL was off. its kind of weird. at this point, i think its my ecu.
is it possible for the CEL to come on even if your 10am fuse is out?
i'm not sure what it is. my original assumption of the car running boggy only when the CEL comes on was proven wrong yesterday and this morning. it ran the same as when the CEL was off. its kind of weird. at this point, i think its my ecu.
is it possible for the CEL to come on even if your 10am fuse is out?
Stouts 'n' Scotch
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
Re: (jchung)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jchung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is it possible for the CEL to come on even if your 10am fuse is out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not exactly sure but I think that this fuse only controls the code memory on the ECU.... don't take my word on this.
is it possible for the CEL to come on even if your 10am fuse is out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not exactly sure but I think that this fuse only controls the code memory on the ECU.... don't take my word on this.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: so.cal
Re: (wiZCo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not exactly sure but I think that this fuse only controls the code memory on the ECU.... don't take my word on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, flippin' weird. i'm going to reset my ecu again exactly the way bluecrx told me to.
Not exactly sure but I think that this fuse only controls the code memory on the ECU.... don't take my word on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, flippin' weird. i'm going to reset my ecu again exactly the way bluecrx told me to.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Re: (wiZCo)
well haven't had time so basically I haven't really did anything..but I am looking for the IAC and hopefully I can find one otherwise I'm not sure what other year civic I can use....anyways let me check out your for sale 
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
From: 29909
Re: (wiZCo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not exactly sure but I think that this fuse only controls the code memory on the ECU.... don't take my word on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It does act as some form of signal to the ECU to reset its memory.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMegCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well haven't had time so basically I haven't really did anything..but I am looking for the IAC and hopefully I can find one otherwise I'm not sure what other year civic I can use....anyways let me check out your for sale </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use any MPFI OBD-0 Civic/Crx IACV/EACV. OBD-0 have wider set mounting points, OBD-1 are about 1/2 inch closer together, I'm not sure on OBD-2. BTW, I'm running an Accord OBD-1 IACV on my JDM D15B VTEC (OBD-1)... Only difference really is that in order to mount it, it will be upside-down so the coolant lines must reach to the top of the intake manifold rather than just underneath; Works though, I like the way it looks. Can get pics if you want just for fun.
Not exactly sure but I think that this fuse only controls the code memory on the ECU.... don't take my word on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It does act as some form of signal to the ECU to reset its memory.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMegCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well haven't had time so basically I haven't really did anything..but I am looking for the IAC and hopefully I can find one otherwise I'm not sure what other year civic I can use....anyways let me check out your for sale
</TD></TR></TABLE>You can use any MPFI OBD-0 Civic/Crx IACV/EACV. OBD-0 have wider set mounting points, OBD-1 are about 1/2 inch closer together, I'm not sure on OBD-2. BTW, I'm running an Accord OBD-1 IACV on my JDM D15B VTEC (OBD-1)... Only difference really is that in order to mount it, it will be upside-down so the coolant lines must reach to the top of the intake manifold rather than just underneath; Works though, I like the way it looks. Can get pics if you want just for fun.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Re: (BlueCrxNC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueCrxNC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can use any MPFI OBD-0 Civic/Crx IACV/EACV. OBD-0 have wider set mounting points, OBD-1 are about 1/2 inch closer together, I'm not sure on OBD-2. BTW, I'm running an Accord OBD-1 IACV on my JDM D15B VTEC (OBD-1)... Only difference really is that in order to mount it, it will be upside-down so the coolant lines must reach to the top of the intake manifold rather than just underneath; Works though, I like the way it looks. Can get pics if you want just for fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>
still kinda noob about the OBD-0/1/2 and right now don't even remeber what that is..something with even emission I think?..lotz on my mind right now...kinda got into it..but anyways what year civic/accord etc can I take the IAV/EACV from? And now that Ive been looking for one I'm thinking freaken junk yard is going to charge me for whole throttle body with it rather then just buying the IAC/EACV which kinda suck
don't really want to pay much for it but if it means to get it running correct I just might have to get whole throttle etc...
Otherwise I'm also looking around local area for complete 92-00 soch engines/tranny for a swap? just because engines pretty old considering it is stock and starting to leak-which looks kinda nasty or basically is and saw a few for $500 and below so not too bad....but I'm trying to get the IAC/EACV first and see what I want to do afterwards. But hopefully it won't run me $100+ cuz even found a few soch engine not sure if complete for little over $100 but thanks let me know 
p.s. wouldn't mind JDm swap or something but got emissions to worry about
You can use any MPFI OBD-0 Civic/Crx IACV/EACV. OBD-0 have wider set mounting points, OBD-1 are about 1/2 inch closer together, I'm not sure on OBD-2. BTW, I'm running an Accord OBD-1 IACV on my JDM D15B VTEC (OBD-1)... Only difference really is that in order to mount it, it will be upside-down so the coolant lines must reach to the top of the intake manifold rather than just underneath; Works though, I like the way it looks. Can get pics if you want just for fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>
still kinda noob about the OBD-0/1/2 and right now don't even remeber what that is..something with even emission I think?..lotz on my mind right now...kinda got into it..but anyways what year civic/accord etc can I take the IAV/EACV from? And now that Ive been looking for one I'm thinking freaken junk yard is going to charge me for whole throttle body with it rather then just buying the IAC/EACV which kinda suck
don't really want to pay much for it but if it means to get it running correct I just might have to get whole throttle etc...Otherwise I'm also looking around local area for complete 92-00 soch engines/tranny for a swap? just because engines pretty old considering it is stock and starting to leak-which looks kinda nasty or basically is
and saw a few for $500 and below so not too bad....but I'm trying to get the IAC/EACV first and see what I want to do afterwards. But hopefully it won't run me $100+ cuz even found a few soch engine not sure if complete for little over $100 but thanks let me know p.s. wouldn't mind JDm swap or something but got emissions to worry about