I need to hold the ignitor to drive my car?? what's wrong!
i recently posted that i couldn't get my car to start...it seems like i can get the car running if i keep the ingnition on...I didn't drive more than 15 feet (I just had to move it from the middle of my drive way to the side.)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1910966
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Hi I need some advice.
I have a 94 Integra. 163000 miles.
My car starts, and then turns off right away. I try to get the RPM's up after the car starts, but it dies right away.
The radio and my lights are running fine. I have half a tank of gas.
I changed my battery less than 4000 miles ago, changed my distributor cap 11,000 miles ago and my alternator and my distributor in 2000 (probably at 105K+ miles.)
Does anyone have an idea of what my problem is?
I did get a SMOG check 2 days ago. I checked my wires going into the distributor cap.
Thank for your help!
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some ppl suggested that it was fuel pump.... ( i also haven't changed my fuel filter for 55-60K miles.)
does anyone have any other suggestions?
Modified by pineapplemike at 1:13 AM 3/26/2007
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1910966
__________________________________________________ ____
Hi I need some advice.
I have a 94 Integra. 163000 miles.
My car starts, and then turns off right away. I try to get the RPM's up after the car starts, but it dies right away.
The radio and my lights are running fine. I have half a tank of gas.
I changed my battery less than 4000 miles ago, changed my distributor cap 11,000 miles ago and my alternator and my distributor in 2000 (probably at 105K+ miles.)
Does anyone have an idea of what my problem is?
I did get a SMOG check 2 days ago. I checked my wires going into the distributor cap.
Thank for your help!
__________________________________________________
some ppl suggested that it was fuel pump.... ( i also haven't changed my fuel filter for 55-60K miles.)
does anyone have any other suggestions?
Modified by pineapplemike at 1:13 AM 3/26/2007
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Yeah my vote is ignition switch. My ignition switch fried itself last spring, car died while I was driving.
Try turning the key to the RUN position, and see if things like windows and wipers and sunroof works. If not, it's definitely the ignition harness. It's like a $35 part and very easy to change out.
On my car, I had my sunroof popped open when the car died. It was towed to a shop, but I didn't want to risk rain getting in. I was able to turn the key and hold it in the start position (starter cranking over) and press the sunroof button to close it.
Try turning the key to the RUN position, and see if things like windows and wipers and sunroof works. If not, it's definitely the ignition harness. It's like a $35 part and very easy to change out.
On my car, I had my sunroof popped open when the car died. It was towed to a shop, but I didn't want to risk rain getting in. I was able to turn the key and hold it in the start position (starter cranking over) and press the sunroof button to close it.
I have a similar problem... when I turn the key to start the car sometimes there is a delay. I have to hold the key in the start position (all the way forward) and nothing happens for like 3 or 4 seconds, then the car starts normally. It doesn't do it all the time, it seems to be random. Also, I've been noticing that my clock will randomly reset the time, like as if my battery died and sometimes my radio will go in to the "code" mode. I thought it was the battery but I had it tested and they said its fine.
Didn't mean to thread jack but I did anyway...
Anyone have an idea of what it could be?
Didn't mean to thread jack but I did anyway...
Anyone have an idea of what it could be?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numotive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a similar problem... when I turn the key to start the car sometimes there is a delay. I have to hold the key in the start position (all the way forward) and nothing happens for like 3 or 4 seconds, then the car starts normally. It doesn't do it all the time, it seems to be random. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not really a similar problem. Yours is most likely the starter solenoid contacts are worn down, you can easily rebuild it for about $20 in parts. There's a thread on that around here somewheres.
Not really a similar problem. Yours is most likely the starter solenoid contacts are worn down, you can easily rebuild it for about $20 in parts. There's a thread on that around here somewheres.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not really a similar problem. Yours is most likely the starter solenoid contacts are worn down, you can easily rebuild it for about $20 in parts. There's a thread on that around here somewheres.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah not really the same problem, just thread jacking here is all
So you say its the starter solenoid contacts? Would that have anything to do with my clock getting reset all the time, and my radio getting reset?
Not really a similar problem. Yours is most likely the starter solenoid contacts are worn down, you can easily rebuild it for about $20 in parts. There's a thread on that around here somewheres.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah not really the same problem, just thread jacking here is all

So you say its the starter solenoid contacts? Would that have anything to do with my clock getting reset all the time, and my radio getting reset?

i found this pic off another thread. maybe it will help some ppl.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numotive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Instead of purchasing a rebuilt starter (~$135), you can rebuild your starter for less than $20. The part that wear out in the starter are the copper contact points. Honda does not sell the contact points, BUT Toyota does. Honda starters are made by Nippondenso and so are Toytota (as well as other manufactures). Toyota sells the contact points in a starter rebuild kit. The parts that you will need are 28226-74070 ($11.89) and 28226-64370 ($6.32). These Toyota starter parts are identical to the Honda starter parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zero...89486
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numotive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm.. but my clock getting reset all the time and my radio getting reset sometimes makes me think its something else. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's probably 2 separate problems that just so happen to be at the same time.
Now back to the OP, did you try what I said with the key in the ON position?
It's probably 2 separate problems that just so happen to be at the same time.
Now back to the OP, did you try what I said with the key in the ON position?
i changed my ignition coil. that wasn't the problem...i also changed my fuel filter and that wasn't it.
i will replace my fuel pump next.
i will replace my fuel pump next.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pineapplemike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i changed my ignition coil. that wasn't the problem...i also changed my fuel filter and that wasn't it.
i will replace my fuel pump next.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please, before you spend more money, put your key in the ON/RUN position and see if your windows and wipers work. If not then it's only a $35 part - the ignition switch harness.
i will replace my fuel pump next.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please, before you spend more money, put your key in the ON/RUN position and see if your windows and wipers work. If not then it's only a $35 part - the ignition switch harness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pineapplemike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i changed my ignition coil. that wasn't the problem...i also changed my fuel filter and that wasn't it.
i will replace my fuel pump next.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to what patrick is saying....dunno why u would do a fuel pump next
Does your pump prime when you turn the ignition on?
I had a similar problem on my dc last year, died while driving.. would start for a second then shut off. Would only stay running if I started it and held the key in the ON position. Replaced Igntion Switch and problem was fixed.
i will replace my fuel pump next.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to what patrick is saying....dunno why u would do a fuel pump next
Does your pump prime when you turn the ignition on?I had a similar problem on my dc last year, died while driving.. would start for a second then shut off. Would only stay running if I started it and held the key in the ON position. Replaced Igntion Switch and problem was fixed.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jBj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Listen to what patrick is saying....dunno why u would do a fuel pump next
Does your pump prime when you turn the ignition on?
I had a similar problem on my dc last year, died while driving.. would start for a second then shut off. Would only stay running if I started it and held the key in the ON position. Replaced Igntion Switch and problem was fixed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
more specifically, the switch with the harness on it, that plugs into the fuse box under the dash, NOT the key cylinder where you stick the key in.
Listen to what patrick is saying....dunno why u would do a fuel pump next
Does your pump prime when you turn the ignition on?I had a similar problem on my dc last year, died while driving.. would start for a second then shut off. Would only stay running if I started it and held the key in the ON position. Replaced Igntion Switch and problem was fixed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>more specifically, the switch with the harness on it, that plugs into the fuse box under the dash, NOT the key cylinder where you stick the key in.
on another board someone mentioned that it could be the fuel pump. i don't think that's right. it must be something electrical.
is the harness something that goes bad over time? do you have to replace the whole thing right? can i buy just the harness?
is the harness something that goes bad over time? do you have to replace the whole thing right? can i buy just the harness?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pineapplemike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on another board someone mentioned that it could be the fuel pump. i don't think that's right. it must be something electrical.
is the harness something that goes bad over time? do you have to replace the whole thing right? can i buy just the harness?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the switch itself screws into the back of the key cylinder. You don't need the key cylinder, only the switch w/ harness. Run the check that I described above to see if your windows and wipers will work with the key in the on position. That will tell you for sure if it's the harness or not. If you have a multimeter you can unplug the harness from the fuse box and run various continuity checks with the key in different positions to check it even further. I would have to look in my Helm's manual and post up which wires to check when I get home tonight.
This is the part you need, #24 p/n 35130-ST7-A01, $35.90 from Baranco

http://www.barancoacuraparts.c...ch=no
is the harness something that goes bad over time? do you have to replace the whole thing right? can i buy just the harness?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the switch itself screws into the back of the key cylinder. You don't need the key cylinder, only the switch w/ harness. Run the check that I described above to see if your windows and wipers will work with the key in the on position. That will tell you for sure if it's the harness or not. If you have a multimeter you can unplug the harness from the fuse box and run various continuity checks with the key in different positions to check it even further. I would have to look in my Helm's manual and post up which wires to check when I get home tonight.
This is the part you need, #24 p/n 35130-ST7-A01, $35.90 from Baranco

http://www.barancoacuraparts.c...ch=no
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
more specifically, the switch with the harness on it, that plugs into the fuse box under the dash, NOT the key cylinder where you stick the key in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, I didnt replace the cylinder just the harness.
more specifically, the switch with the harness on it, that plugs into the fuse box under the dash, NOT the key cylinder where you stick the key in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, I didnt replace the cylinder just the harness.
yeah i tried it. the windows don't work with the key in the on position. they work if i'm turning the key. i will order the part. thanks for all your help. hopefully this is all that is wrong.






