I just got everything back together and I am pretty sure something is wrong. I had my head redone and my bottom end as well. My setup is p30 pistons, gsr head, valve job and all new seals and gaskets. So the head and block were professionally reassembled. I now have oil in all four cylinders, not a lot but enough to cover the piston. I have bad valve cover spark plug seals but thats not the problem. I know its either valve seals, valve guides or rings. The guides arent new but everything else is. I may start there. Another weird thing is at idle im not smoking at all. My garage is clear when it runs. Here are some pics of everything. The plugs arent new. They have about 2k miles on them from the ls motor. They work fine. At the time of being pulled from the ls motor I had it running at 20 degrees BTDC and they were running well with a brownish tent. Now you can tell they are running RICH as all HELL. IN THE PIC OF THE SPARK PLUGS THEY ARE POSITIONED 4321 FOR CYLINDER LAYOUT.









Modified by 1badteg at 2:37 AM 2/27/2007

 

NGK BKR7E-11's are $1.77 each at Advance Auto.

Go buy a couple sets.

Also, what are you tuning with?

Are the cams larger than factory? i.e. something with larger primaries?

How many miles are on the engine?

- Derek

 

Thanks on the tip for the spark plugs. I am waiting for my tuned ecu from kenji, but while I was waiting I was told it would be fine to use the ls ecu just at idle. I started it up and found out later that my timing was way off. When I rebuilt the motor and set it to TDC I must have messed something up bad. I relized my timing was at least an inch past 18 degrees TDC. So I just retarded the timing on the dizzy and -4 degrees on both intake and exhaust. Cams are stock, and the original motor has 167k on it. It is a fresh rebuild. It has had about 5-10 mins of run time with extreme advanced timing. Crazy thing is that the plugs dont look like it was running lean. Now the timing is sitting at 16 degrees BTDC. It sounds better and the oil is subsiding. Fingers are crossed thanks.

 

BTW, the part number for those spark plugs is "6097".

Good luck.

- Derek

 

did you use the right headgasket and which one?! and also did u plug the hole underneath the b16 head?

 

if the rings havenet seated yet there will be a lil bit of oil that passes the cross hatching of the fresh hone job... get that thing tuned and beat the crap out of it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16civster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the rings havenet seated yet there will be a lil bit of oil that passes the cross hatching of the fresh hone job... get that thing tuned and beat the crap out of it </TD></TR></TABLE>

give it about 500 miles before you beat the crap out if it.

 

its the headgasket that came with the GE lsvtec kit and it works well. No leaks at all. The head is pluged and all oil lines are ran correctly. I found out last night that the oil on the pistons is somewhat normal because of a hone. Its running well now and just waiting on my ecu. Kenji said it will be fine for my setup. What else do I need to tune it with? Wideband? Crome? Anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR.johnson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

give it about 500 miles before you beat the crap out if it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd love to hear your reasoning behind this one.

- Derek

 

So you shouldnt wait 500 miles before getting on it? I was going to do at least 1k. Also why is my timing so retarded and its still only at 15-16 degrees btdc? What I mean is why is it only at 15-16 degrees. Shouldnt it be more like 10 or below? Is the timing on the lsvtec this bad? I have the intake side way retaded and the exhaust side at -4. I would say the dizzy is at full retard. haha


Modified by 1badteg at 2:15 PM 2/27/2007

 

there's a thread on here from a few days ago about breaking in a motor... and according to most people the best way is to bring it up to 2k then let the engine slow you down then 4k and let teh engine slow you down then 6k........and so on to your red line.....BUT make sure its tuned because if its running rich it WILL wash out the cylenders and lean will get it to hot so make sure the timing is good and your af ratio....... to tune you can use chrome or urber data and i def sugest a wide band....it will be your best friend for your motor

 

hERE YOU GO


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfruauff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hERE YOU GO


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a good article. I had heard about that kind of break in. I guess I give it a go.

 

im just throwing this out there because i had an oil problem on my almost identical set up.

check the pcv valve

my experiance with this was that it was virtually non exhistant and the vacuum was sucking oil from the oil pan directly into the intake manifold. check you intake manifold and see if theres a decent amount of oil in it.

 

no oil is in the intake manifold. I recently found out that it is normal to have a small amount of oil in the combustion chamber due to the rings not having enough time to seal. Im just going to make sure its running stoich and give it a strong run.

 

Try a little ultra grey under your valve cover seals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no oil is in the intake manifold. I recently found out that it is normal to have a small amount of oil in the combustion chamber due to the rings not having enough time to seal. Im just going to make sure its running stoich and give it a strong run. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think that is your issue.

I have a feeling your issue is related to your cylinder head (valve stem seals) or your rings being improperly installed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think that is your issue.

I have a feeling your issue is related to your cylinder head (valve stem seals) or your rings being improperly installed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You maybe right. However I do have good compression across the board and I would rather see if it seals up and gets better than tearing it down to restart. If the rings dont fix the problem when they start to set, then I will pull the head and replace the guides and seals. The rings were installed by an engine builder and he balanced my internals while he was at it. I dont think he messed up, but you never know...Thanks.