motor mount inserts
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: torrance, ca, usa
motor mount inserts
hello people!! i have a problem with my motor mount so i bought an insert. i was qouted 100 and up, depends on how long it would take them to install the inserts, from the shop i went to. do you guys know any shop that charges lower than that? i live in carson. i also have no tools nor time to do it myself so diy is not possible. thanks
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 15,050
Likes: 3
Re: motor mount inserts (PrecisionH23a)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">100 bucks is pretty cheap. The rear mount is a real pain in the ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no kidding. I wouldn't even do that for $100.
no kidding. I wouldn't even do that for $100.
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,410
Likes: 1
Tools needed:
As many socket extension bars as you can find
17mm socket,
10mm socket (deep) or 10mm spanner.
Universal joint,
Torque Wrench,
Flashlight,
Blue Tac,
Hammer,
Scissor jack.
1. Remove Intake pipe
2. Connect 17mm socket to universal joint followed by extension bars.
3. Remove the #1 bolt (pictured below)
4. Remove the #2 bolt. Stick blue tac inside the 17mm socket. Slide the socket & bar straight down, between the TB and engine. Once the bolt has been undone, carefully lift the bolt out. The blue tac should keep the bolt attached to the socket.
5. Remove the #3 bolt. This one is tricky. Remove the universal joint. And just stick the 17mm socket onto the extension bar. With the blue tac still in the socket, slide the socket between the TB and the firewall. You should be able to go straight down onto the bolt. Undo the bolt and carefully lift the bolt free.
6. Place the scissor jack under the engine and jack it up so it only just lifts the engine.
7. Remove the #4 bolt. You will have to pull it straight out after you have unthreaded it out.
8. On the fire wall you will see a heater hose and valve that is bolted onto the firewall. undo the 10mm nut holding it on. You will have to unclip the cable.
9. With the valve/hose free you will be able to lift the old engine mount free.
10. Slide the new engine mount in the same way the old one came out.
11. Reattach the heater valve to the firewall and reclip the cable.
12. Reattach bolts 1-3. You will still need the blue tac in the socket to maneuver the bolts into place. Don't tighten the bolts yet, just thread them in.
13. This part is tricky. You will find that when you try to put bolt #4 back in, it won't go in. This is because the engine has dropped down slightly on the firewall side. You have to use a hammer and wedge it between the engine mount bracket (that is bolted to the engine) and the subframe. Careful not the rest the hammer on any hoses. Use this as a lever to lift the engine up and your free hand to push the bolt in and thread it in a few turns. Remove the hammer.
14. Tighten bolt #4 using the torque wrench to 65nM.
15. Tighten bolts #1-3 to 95nM.
16. Go into the car and slide the heater adjustment and go outside and make sure the heater valve operates normally.
17. Reattach the intake hose.
From PO
As many socket extension bars as you can find
17mm socket,
10mm socket (deep) or 10mm spanner.
Universal joint,
Torque Wrench,
Flashlight,
Blue Tac,
Hammer,
Scissor jack.
1. Remove Intake pipe
2. Connect 17mm socket to universal joint followed by extension bars.
3. Remove the #1 bolt (pictured below)
4. Remove the #2 bolt. Stick blue tac inside the 17mm socket. Slide the socket & bar straight down, between the TB and engine. Once the bolt has been undone, carefully lift the bolt out. The blue tac should keep the bolt attached to the socket.
5. Remove the #3 bolt. This one is tricky. Remove the universal joint. And just stick the 17mm socket onto the extension bar. With the blue tac still in the socket, slide the socket between the TB and the firewall. You should be able to go straight down onto the bolt. Undo the bolt and carefully lift the bolt free.
6. Place the scissor jack under the engine and jack it up so it only just lifts the engine.
7. Remove the #4 bolt. You will have to pull it straight out after you have unthreaded it out.
8. On the fire wall you will see a heater hose and valve that is bolted onto the firewall. undo the 10mm nut holding it on. You will have to unclip the cable.
9. With the valve/hose free you will be able to lift the old engine mount free.
10. Slide the new engine mount in the same way the old one came out.
11. Reattach the heater valve to the firewall and reclip the cable.
12. Reattach bolts 1-3. You will still need the blue tac in the socket to maneuver the bolts into place. Don't tighten the bolts yet, just thread them in.
13. This part is tricky. You will find that when you try to put bolt #4 back in, it won't go in. This is because the engine has dropped down slightly on the firewall side. You have to use a hammer and wedge it between the engine mount bracket (that is bolted to the engine) and the subframe. Careful not the rest the hammer on any hoses. Use this as a lever to lift the engine up and your free hand to push the bolt in and thread it in a few turns. Remove the hammer.
14. Tighten bolt #4 using the torque wrench to 65nM.
15. Tighten bolts #1-3 to 95nM.
16. Go into the car and slide the heater adjustment and go outside and make sure the heater valve operates normally.
17. Reattach the intake hose.
From PO
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most hood white kid
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,505
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Re: motor mount inserts (hu)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You do not have to remove the IM or any of that jazz to take out the rear mount.
If you need instructions, let me know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
some people do it because it does make it easier when you can see better. But you're right, its not required.
If you need instructions, let me know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
some people do it because it does make it easier when you can see better. But you're right, its not required.
most hood white kid
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,505
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Re: motor mount inserts (PrecisionH23a)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Taking the intake manifold out is def not necessary. You'll end up spending another hour just removing the gasket from the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
o I know, I was just responding in saying that some people do it.
o I know, I was just responding in saying that some people do it.
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