anyone ever have any problems with competition clutch on a turbo'd honda???
i started out with a competition stage 2 clutch on my set up. well soon as i put my turbo on, it started to slip, and engagement on the pedal was moving closer and closer to the ground. it would engage right off the ground, and eventually it would not fully disengage when the clutch was fully pushed in.
on that one i just assumed i was making too much power on that particular set up. well now i have a stage 4 competition clutch, its starting to do the same thing. the clutch holds the power fine, when the clutch pedal is fully released it bites hard. but engagement is starting happen right off the ground again. i even adjusted my clutch pedal to give me some more room.
what could be causing this to happen?? the master cylinder has less than 15,000 miles on it. the reason i don't feel its the master cylinder is because when i first installed the new clutch it felt great, it gave me just the right amount of movement before engaging. i really hope its not the clutch again. i don't think i can put my trust in competition clutch if it turns out the stage 4 isn't strong enough either
could i have installed the clutch wrong? whats there to mess up? i had a good inch of clutch pedal free play. i used the alignment tool. everything got torqued to manufacture spec. i resurfaced my flywheel.
i never had any problem with competition until i went boosted
TIA
on that one i just assumed i was making too much power on that particular set up. well now i have a stage 4 competition clutch, its starting to do the same thing. the clutch holds the power fine, when the clutch pedal is fully released it bites hard. but engagement is starting happen right off the ground again. i even adjusted my clutch pedal to give me some more room.
what could be causing this to happen?? the master cylinder has less than 15,000 miles on it. the reason i don't feel its the master cylinder is because when i first installed the new clutch it felt great, it gave me just the right amount of movement before engaging. i really hope its not the clutch again. i don't think i can put my trust in competition clutch if it turns out the stage 4 isn't strong enough either
could i have installed the clutch wrong? whats there to mess up? i had a good inch of clutch pedal free play. i used the alignment tool. everything got torqued to manufacture spec. i resurfaced my flywheel.
i never had any problem with competition until i went boosted
TIA
Have someone watch the slave cylinder as you depress the clutch and make sure its moving its full range of motion.
We use competition clutches on most of our turbo builds and have never had that problem.
We use competition clutches on most of our turbo builds and have never had that problem.
my CC stage 2 is still holding up well on my 270whp setup. i dont think your problem is related to the brand of clutch. sounds like something else is going on.
ok well i was doing some testing, i bled the lines, no air. im pretty sure the master cylinder is working. i was actually watching the fork move, it moves about 1 1/4 inches. stays strong.
are there any other tests i can can preform?
i have a new clutch coming, but i wanna make sure i cure any problem before it happens again
are there any other tests i can can preform?
i have a new clutch coming, but i wanna make sure i cure any problem before it happens again
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i did break the clutch in. im gonna order the new slave and master tomorrow. hopefully i have them in time to intstall by the time im ready to install the next clutch
can i replace my stock hydralic lines with a flexible steel braided line? it would actually serve 2 purposes. i want to put an air filter on my 4" inlet and my hydro line gets in the way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my competition clutch stage 4 has worked wonders for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here.
same here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra3586 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i replace my stock hydralic lines with a flexible steel braided line? it would actually serve 2 purposes. i want to put an air filter on my 4" inlet and my hydro line gets in the way. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok well i replaced both my master and my slave cylinder today. it did not fix anything. here is what the clutch looked like when i removed it.
flywheel




pressure plate


clutch disc


and a picture of my messy *** garage
flywheel




pressure plate


clutch disc


and a picture of my messy *** garage
I had a similar issue and it was the line between the slave and hard line. I replaced it and no issues. It had a slit on the under side. Check all your lines, and connections. Are you loosing fluid??
no fluid loss, i can wedge a bat and hold my pedal, and watch the clutch fork. it never moves
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When you removed the tranny the 1st time to put in the clutch did you have a hard time getting it out? or maybe bend the shaft slightly? I use to have problems with my old turbo integra that only made about 270 whp and I was using clutchs that could hold 400+ tq. They all went bad within 500-2000 miles. I think it may have been partly a bent shaft on the tranny. Who knows though. Maybe the RPS and ACT clutch just ******* sucked.
the tranny the first time came out perfectly. it also went it like a dream. everything looked fine when i took it out today. i just dont get it
Was the fly wheel ever resurfaced ?? if so was it steped right ?? this problem could happen if it was not done right
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integra3586
Acura Integra
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Feb 25, 2007 03:32 PM



