Honda told me after an oil change that my oil pan gasket was leaking. So I had it replaced ($200). I still have a leak. Now they say it may be my rear main seal ($660).

I checked the FAQ and didn't see this swap listed, but wondering...

...will a F22 from a 98-02 fit in my 92? Just a bare long-block swap. I'll use my distributor, tranny, intake manifold, axels, ecu, starter, etc.. I figure that would be way cheaper than fixing the seal. F series motors are a dime a dozen now days and I just want a OE replacement. No major upgrading.

Thanks HT-ers.

 

ok the 98 - 02 has a f23 not a f22. there aren't a whole lot of major differences, but enough to make this swap a pain.

you will need to use a f23 intake and exhaust manifold. The transmission will bolt up no problem, and you should be able to use the axles as well.

you will either have to convert the f23 to OBD1 or use the f23 ECU, and distributor. the F22 also uses a different style IAC valve. you will need to use the correct one depending on your engine management.


Honda should be crediting you $200 ( or something) towards the main seal replacement. if they told you the pan was leaking, you had them fix it, then they tell you they were wrong and the problem is something else, then it's not you who fucked up.

f series motors are dirt cheap, but having somebody, especially honda, swap them is very expensive. I doubt very strongly that honda would put a motor into a car it didn't come in from the factory. I don't know your level of technical expertise, but I'm guessing that if you paid honda to change your oil pan gasket, that you aren't up for DIYing this. Sorry if I've assumed wrong.

unless you are very particular about your cars, I'd let it go. a leaking rear main seal takes a long time to get real bad, and $660 buys a lot of oil. just keep an eye on the dipstick and fill your oil when it starts to get low.

 

Thanks for the info.

I can do the swap on my own....oil pan gasket was changed during a winter storm...I was a sissy to do it outside in cold, no garage. We got 7" of snow in Seattle when the work was needed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will either have to convert the f23 to OBD1 or use the f23 ECU, and distributor. the F22 also uses a different style IAC valve. you will need to use the correct one depending on your engine management.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I go w/ the F23 im/dizzy/ecu, do I have to use a Hondata program or is there a ECU jumper harness I can use?

And as far as staying with the easiest path, does the 94-97 F series give trouble?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unless you are very particular about your cars, I'd let it go. a leaking rear main seal takes a long time to get real bad, and $660 buys a lot of oil. just keep an eye on the dipstick and fill your oil when it starts to get low.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is most likely route. Just hoping for a different option.

 

First off, what are the emissions laws in Washington? If they are too strict, you may be looking at a big PITA for the small power increase of the F23 to make the swap legal. You would need to transfer all the emmisions equipment and the ECU. It's not hard, but it can get pretty pricey for the so-so results.

Here's two options that might interest you:

H22 swap is about the same amount of work to install and legalize as a newer model F motor. You could keep your current trans and axles, which brings the price down a good bit.

You could also get a stock motor for your car out of the JY and rebuild it. Obviously the cheapest route, and a no-brainer on install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16Z6racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info.

I can do the swap on my own....oil pan gasket was changed during a winter storm...I was a sissy to do it outside in cold, no garage. We got 7" of snow in Seattle when the work was needed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't say I blame you. I don't even like to work in my garage once it gets below about 30

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16Z6racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I go w/ the F23 im/dizzy/ecu, do I have to use a Hondata program or is there a ECU jumper harness I can use?

And as far as staying with the easiest path, does the 94-97 F series give trouble?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can buy a obd1 to obd2b jumper harness to use the f23 ECU with your wireing. Wait. I've seen obd2b to obd1 but not the otherway around. make sense? most people want to use the obd1 ecu with one of the socketable ECUs you can program with chrome or uberdata or whatever. So I'm not sure if you can get a harness converter or not. the F23 ECU has an immobilizer in it as well which will create problems.

the 94 - 97 f22 will be a much easier swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can buy a obd1 to obd2b jumper harness to use the f23 ECU with your wireing. Wait. I've seen obd2b to obd1 but not the otherway around. make sense? most people want to use the obd1 ecu with one of the socketable ECUs you can program with chrome or uberdata or whatever. So I'm not sure if you can get a harness converter or not. the F23 ECU has an immobilizer in it as well which will create problems.

the 94 - 97 f22 will be a much easier swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Route one is 94/97 F22.

Route two...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prodigal Son &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H22 swap is about the same amount of work to install and legalize as a newer model F motor. You could keep your current trans and axles, which brings the price down a good bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

H22 is a straight drop, but what about wiring?...ECU need a jumper harness?..OBD1 (me) to OBD2B (H22)? Mechanics aren't the issuefor me, wiring is.

And in WA, I could drop a JDM motor in and pass emissions w/ no addition work. Some cities here don't even have emissions. This favors us 'swappers' big time up here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16Z6racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Route one is 94/97 F22.

H22 is a straight drop, but what about wiring?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well... You will need to research that one a bit. I know that it is no more work to wire up the H22 than you are looking at for the F motor anyway. My car is a 1995 EX (F22B1 SOHC VTEC) and my harness is 99.5% compatable with the H22. Like switch two wires and run a knock sensor... You have a bit more work than that, but not much. Stay away from 96+ stuff if you don't like wiring, OBD-II has more sensors, etc.

Honestly, I would put a post in the hybrid section asking about the wiring. More tech heads there. We'll still answer what we can though