Time to freshing up the R
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Port St. John, Florida, United States
Well guys my wifes 2000 Type R Burns about a quart of oil a week and this last week burned alot more. When i checked the oil i had to put 2 quarts in just to get it to hit the dip stick. Even after that it was still a quart low.(yes Im on flat ground). The nice thing is that even though it has been burnning this much oil it still ran a best of 14.5 @ 93.8 W only I/H/E. So tomorrow moring I will be puliing the head off to see what kind of damage there mite be from driving the car low on oil.
Whatever I see damaged is going to get rplaced with aftermarket parts. But at this point not sure to get turbo parts or all motor. My wife wants it to be turboed but i think it should be all motor. We did buy a 96 GSR from her brother for her to drive while we rebuild The R. We are doing this rebuild together and hope it all goes well. Wish me luck that the car is not damaged.
Whatever I see damaged is going to get rplaced with aftermarket parts. But at this point not sure to get turbo parts or all motor. My wife wants it to be turboed but i think it should be all motor. We did buy a 96 GSR from her brother for her to drive while we rebuild The R. We are doing this rebuild together and hope it all goes well. Wish me luck that the car is not damaged.
No need to pull the head yet. Do a compression test and leak down. This will tell you if it's the valves or the rings. Once you get the results of that, you can move forward from there. 
Now that I see where your from, if your willing to come to Orlando, we have a shop.

Now that I see where your from, if your willing to come to Orlando, we have a shop.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Port St. John, Florida, United States
Did a comp test the other day all were around 220 +- 5psi I was told valve guid seals but i just wanted to pull the head anyways to do some maint/ porting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LDS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did a comp test the other day all were around 220 +- 5psi I was told valve guid seals but i just wanted to pull the head anyways to do some maint/ porting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds good, you might want to try a leak down then and see if your getting blow by. Other than that, you could check and see if the PVC is clogged, however I doubt it's that.
Does the car smoke a very little at start up?
Sounds good, you might want to try a leak down then and see if your getting blow by. Other than that, you could check and see if the PVC is clogged, however I doubt it's that.
Does the car smoke a very little at start up?
Burning oil is not all that bad, some people here can burn thru two quarts of oil in 25 mins on track and the car still drives fine. Just keep an eye on it and refill when needed.
I burn about as much oil as you... Still ran 14.3 at 96.2MPH. No blue at all, not on start up, not on WOT, not on let off... So I guess it's just burning off in VTEC, because I do kill it quite a bit.
I'd run leak down before you do anymore work.
I'd run leak down before you do anymore work.
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Thread Starter
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From: Port St. John, Florida, United States
Well I took the head off today and found that the cylinder walls on all four were scored pretty bad. i mean bad enough to catch my fingernail on them. The scratches were up and down and were about 2 inches long. The cross hatch is barley visible. I also notivced the Pcv valve was clogged probley causing most of the oil to burn.
All my exhuast vlaves have a F on the but on the 3rd cylinder itys barley visible due to the white chared looking stuff on the valve.
What do you guys think?.
All my exhuast vlaves have a F on the but on the 3rd cylinder itys barley visible due to the white chared looking stuff on the valve.
What do you guys think?.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Port St. John, Florida, United States
Well sence the head is off I was cleaning it up getting it ready for me to port and polish it. I was cleanin the chambers cause they were pretty dirty and flakey and then I saw it, cylinder 3' exhaust vlaves wouldent clean up right. The more I cleaned them the more obvious it became that the vlaves were damaged.
I then take a closer look and one of cyl 3's exh valves and they look lumpy one more then the other. So i clean more and more to see if it was leaking compression and it definatly looks like its still doing its job of sealing but it looks lumpy.
There is no other evidence of a forign object being in that cylinder. there is no chew marks or anthing just 2 mildly lumpy valves that still appear to be sealing. I did a compression test a while back and everthing came out fine.
I will update again as soon as I find out more about the damage when the valves come out. I will say that skunk high compression valves are on the list now As we have decited to keep this R all motor.
I then take a closer look and one of cyl 3's exh valves and they look lumpy one more then the other. So i clean more and more to see if it was leaking compression and it definatly looks like its still doing its job of sealing but it looks lumpy.
There is no other evidence of a forign object being in that cylinder. there is no chew marks or anthing just 2 mildly lumpy valves that still appear to be sealing. I did a compression test a while back and everthing came out fine.
I will update again as soon as I find out more about the damage when the valves come out. I will say that skunk high compression valves are on the list now As we have decited to keep this R all motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LDS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres a pic of the head and it has 117K miles now
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Looks to me, at the least you had a headgasket leak. Look on cyl. 3 and you'll see it the most, but it also looks that way on 1-2.
Also, how did the plug look on 4? Seems like a lot of carbon build up on that one as opposed to the others.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Looks to me, at the least you had a headgasket leak. Look on cyl. 3 and you'll see it the most, but it also looks that way on 1-2.
Also, how did the plug look on 4? Seems like a lot of carbon build up on that one as opposed to the others.
i'm taking over my head next week, my car is back firing of late and is not driving how its suppose to be, i did a leak down test and comprassion as well, seems like it'l burning pass the rings
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Port St. John, Florida, United States
the pictures were taken after i cleaned it up a bit with a cleaning brush on the dremal. Where do you see a possible head gasket leak? i want to go look at that part of the head and old head gasket . If I still have the old gasket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LDS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forgot to show everybody what the car looks like. This is a picture of us at the track when we got the car back in june 2006
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NICE!! If you look quick at the ORLANDO sign, it actually looks like it says "R"LAND
</TD></TR></TABLE>NICE!! If you look quick at the ORLANDO sign, it actually looks like it says "R"LAND
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 439
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From: Port St. John, Florida, United States
The spark plugs were white when I pulled them out (looks like a lean condition but I was told that was from burning oil).
I will be pulling the rest of the motor out this coming up friday. I will take lots of pics. So far here is the list we are going with...
Bottem end-
SRP 81.25mm 11.5:1 pistons
Corrillo Rods
ARP head studs
ARP Rod bolts
Toda Timing belt
Head-
My port job
SKunk pro 2's
Skunk hi-comp valves/valve springs/ret
maybe skunk manifold
Hondata gasket
Skunk camgears
Chrome skunk program p28
It made 170hp and 119tq burning all that oil
Im hoping to break 200 with the new set up.
I will be pulling the rest of the motor out this coming up friday. I will take lots of pics. So far here is the list we are going with...
Bottem end-
SRP 81.25mm 11.5:1 pistons
Corrillo Rods
ARP head studs
ARP Rod bolts
Toda Timing belt
Head-
My port job
SKunk pro 2's
Skunk hi-comp valves/valve springs/ret
maybe skunk manifold
Hondata gasket
Skunk camgears
Chrome skunk program p28
It made 170hp and 119tq burning all that oil
Im hoping to break 200 with the new set up.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 439
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From: Port St. John, Florida, United States
Not going to do the cams right now. Only crower valve springs. My wife and I bought a 2007 four door si so the type-r is mine now. Plans have changed some but i havent posted my changes yet because Im not for sure what all there going to be. But for now my plans include keeping stock cams at least until I do more research on cams.
there was a resent build a guy had 11:7:1 comp and ran pro2's and made a little over 200.. im going with a similar setup with pro2's with about 12:0:1 so not really overcaming. although they do recommend 12:0:1... i will be doing a lot more than what he mentioned
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So are Pro-2s a bit too aggressive for 1.8liter? </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, just too aggressive for 11:5.1 compression.
No, just too aggressive for 11:5.1 compression.



Also how many miles you have on motor now?

