farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout:
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout:
well guys, i've been mostly MIA for the past few months, but i still feel like a part of the prelude community, so it saddens me to say that the lude is for sale and i'm moving on. It's been a great 5 years of owning my favorite 4-wheeled honda, and throughout the years i'd like to say that i've learned alot from you guys, and hopefully did my best to help some of you guys with what i've learned.
After a lot of time under and around the car, this is what i've figured out:
-no matter what, the motor's gonna consume oil. for the most part, regardless of whether the motor's been babied, only seen mobil 1, and has relatively low miles, it'll just start consuming the **** around 80k. consider it the price of vtec.
-a 27mm rear sway bar (solid) is a must for good handling. I loved my progress bar and it's probably the best bar on the market short of some neat custom stuff. Dropping or d/c the front bar def increases rotation, but sometimes at the cost of turn in--the car will def step the rear end out w/ a 27mm rear and no front, considering all of the other factors are within normal spec. whether or not it's faster to have no front bar, i can't say. the car FELT better like this, but it all depends on the track/cone setup and your driving style.
-cobalt friction Spec VR's were the best dedicated track only brake pads i ever used. Awesome heat tolerance, great consistent feel throughout its working heat range, and good modulation characteristics. You can't get these pads anymore, but if what i'm told is true, the new CF compounds are even better.
-I never regretted buying koni dampers. (DAMPERS DAMPERS DAMPERS not DAMPENERS!) not only did they do everything i asked them to do, they were so well supported (on this board, by CRX_Lee) that any question i had was answered quickly and thoroughly over pm. not only is it a superior product mechanically, but it's a superior product in all senses of the word "superior."
-6" springs aren't going to work, no matter how cheaply you can get them
-camber #'s to shoot for for a well handling car should be at least -2 degrees up front. from there it can range from -2 to -4, depending on who you are or what you drive, but please please please don't 0 out your camber. you might as well drive a toyota corolla.
-on the camber note, camber does not kill tires! toe does! and every time you change your ride height, get the toe zero'd out! even subtle changes will affect the alignment angles enough to make a difference.
-falken azenis are the best street tire you can buy. 215/45/16 is the size you want, unless you wanna run 235/45/17's on a 17x7.5 or wider. Speaking of 235's, it's definitely a good idea to try it out. the car handles beautifully on 235's (relative to 205's or 215's) especially if it's a R-comp 235. those few trackdays w/ 235 RA-1's were amazing. btw, you can find race take-offs from Speed World Challenge cars for cheap, where the spec tire/size is a 235/45/17 RA-1. bimmerworld has them for $50 a tire, or if you hang out in the paddock of a WC race, you can prob score some for free. on the subject of tires, w/o final drive modification, the smaller the diameter the better. given our car's wimpy powerband, shorter gear ratio = better in almost all instances.
-a racing seat or a seat w/ better bolsters totally changes the driving experience. A few a/x's with the stock seat led to bruised knees and sore lats from trying to keep myself from flying out the window, and helped me get over death grip.
-for dropping pesky balljoints, a little pb blaster and a hammer never did me wrong. some people don't like this method because it's somewhat violent, but once you get that BJ off once, it pops off fairly easily after that.
-the cheapest rotors you can buy = your friend. even on track $15 rotors hold up as well as the expensive stuff.
-strut tower bars, x-braces, c-pillar bars--they're all useless jungle gym material. if you want to add rigidity to the car, suck it up and get a rollbar or a cage.
-pay the money to join PO. it seems ridiculous at first, but it's a great resource.
-Anti-sieze! on your lug studs, on suspension joints, (esp the rear lower shock bolts), and anything else that may see lots of crud/load.
-Get a good electric impact wrench. doesn't have to be snap on or DeWalt, but shouldn't be a cheap POS unless you're lucky and have the previous model HF elec. impact (the new one sucks.) word on the street is that the GoodYear brand elec impact sold at pep boys is solid. It makes life so much easier when you're away from your compressor or don't have one.
-Good floor jack--the HF/Costco lightweight racing jacks might work at the track, but when you're in the comfort of your own garage, get a real jack. one that gets the car up high enough to actually do work under it. IIRC, that height is something around 23" max saddle height? and if you're lowered, roughly 4" min saddle height makes your life much easier. and JACKSTANDS please! don't let your oilpan be your plastic surgeon.
-Torque Specs--not everyone is diligent enough to torque everything to spec, but at the very least memorize the important bolts and get those torqued to spec. i.e., lugs, head studs, LCA bolts, brake caliper bolts, etc.
-Get a metric tap/die kit. trust me you need one. it's saved my *** so many times...
-Lightweight batteries kick ***. the Hawker Genesis has been one of the best mods i've ever done, it's still working day in day out (it's going on about 3 years) and costs $60. It takes about 25 lbs off the front of the car, and in front of the axles which makes it even better. Unless you live in cold weather or have a massive system to power, it's a great way to save some weight.
-if there's a clunk coming from the suspension, and it's not shock knock, chances are it's the sway bar. if there's a whiz coming from the transmission when you're pressing the clutch, chances are it's the TOB or something on the clutch disk. if there's a whirring coming from the front end, it's prob your wheel bearing.
-make nice with a local machine shop so they don't rape you when you need a quick press job done. same applies for your local tire shop--it was great getting tires mounted for $10/piece vs. the 15+ they charge everyone else.
-get a lifetime alignment. if you've got coilovers, get a lifetime alignment. it'll save you money not only on alignments, but on tires too.
-keep an eye on your tire pressures at the track. 2 psi DOES make a difference, and you've got 4 tires to monitor so you've got your hands full every time you come in off the track. in general, lower pressures mean more grip, until your sidewalls become the weak link, but higher pressures can mean better turn in. find your balance.
-cornerweighting: you dropped all that money on the adjustable suspension, use it to its full potential. there's nothing more beautiful than driving a properly cornerweighted car for the first time.
-clay bars = teh sex. don't overdo it, but definitely get to know the joys of using a claybar once or twice a year.
I can't think of anything else at the moment, but i'm sure there's more. i'll bbl...
After a lot of time under and around the car, this is what i've figured out:
-no matter what, the motor's gonna consume oil. for the most part, regardless of whether the motor's been babied, only seen mobil 1, and has relatively low miles, it'll just start consuming the **** around 80k. consider it the price of vtec.
-a 27mm rear sway bar (solid) is a must for good handling. I loved my progress bar and it's probably the best bar on the market short of some neat custom stuff. Dropping or d/c the front bar def increases rotation, but sometimes at the cost of turn in--the car will def step the rear end out w/ a 27mm rear and no front, considering all of the other factors are within normal spec. whether or not it's faster to have no front bar, i can't say. the car FELT better like this, but it all depends on the track/cone setup and your driving style.
-cobalt friction Spec VR's were the best dedicated track only brake pads i ever used. Awesome heat tolerance, great consistent feel throughout its working heat range, and good modulation characteristics. You can't get these pads anymore, but if what i'm told is true, the new CF compounds are even better.
-I never regretted buying koni dampers. (DAMPERS DAMPERS DAMPERS not DAMPENERS!) not only did they do everything i asked them to do, they were so well supported (on this board, by CRX_Lee) that any question i had was answered quickly and thoroughly over pm. not only is it a superior product mechanically, but it's a superior product in all senses of the word "superior."
-6" springs aren't going to work, no matter how cheaply you can get them
-camber #'s to shoot for for a well handling car should be at least -2 degrees up front. from there it can range from -2 to -4, depending on who you are or what you drive, but please please please don't 0 out your camber. you might as well drive a toyota corolla.
-on the camber note, camber does not kill tires! toe does! and every time you change your ride height, get the toe zero'd out! even subtle changes will affect the alignment angles enough to make a difference.
-falken azenis are the best street tire you can buy. 215/45/16 is the size you want, unless you wanna run 235/45/17's on a 17x7.5 or wider. Speaking of 235's, it's definitely a good idea to try it out. the car handles beautifully on 235's (relative to 205's or 215's) especially if it's a R-comp 235. those few trackdays w/ 235 RA-1's were amazing. btw, you can find race take-offs from Speed World Challenge cars for cheap, where the spec tire/size is a 235/45/17 RA-1. bimmerworld has them for $50 a tire, or if you hang out in the paddock of a WC race, you can prob score some for free. on the subject of tires, w/o final drive modification, the smaller the diameter the better. given our car's wimpy powerband, shorter gear ratio = better in almost all instances.
-a racing seat or a seat w/ better bolsters totally changes the driving experience. A few a/x's with the stock seat led to bruised knees and sore lats from trying to keep myself from flying out the window, and helped me get over death grip.
-for dropping pesky balljoints, a little pb blaster and a hammer never did me wrong. some people don't like this method because it's somewhat violent, but once you get that BJ off once, it pops off fairly easily after that.
-the cheapest rotors you can buy = your friend. even on track $15 rotors hold up as well as the expensive stuff.
-strut tower bars, x-braces, c-pillar bars--they're all useless jungle gym material. if you want to add rigidity to the car, suck it up and get a rollbar or a cage.
-pay the money to join PO. it seems ridiculous at first, but it's a great resource.
-Anti-sieze! on your lug studs, on suspension joints, (esp the rear lower shock bolts), and anything else that may see lots of crud/load.
-Get a good electric impact wrench. doesn't have to be snap on or DeWalt, but shouldn't be a cheap POS unless you're lucky and have the previous model HF elec. impact (the new one sucks.) word on the street is that the GoodYear brand elec impact sold at pep boys is solid. It makes life so much easier when you're away from your compressor or don't have one.
-Good floor jack--the HF/Costco lightweight racing jacks might work at the track, but when you're in the comfort of your own garage, get a real jack. one that gets the car up high enough to actually do work under it. IIRC, that height is something around 23" max saddle height? and if you're lowered, roughly 4" min saddle height makes your life much easier. and JACKSTANDS please! don't let your oilpan be your plastic surgeon.
-Torque Specs--not everyone is diligent enough to torque everything to spec, but at the very least memorize the important bolts and get those torqued to spec. i.e., lugs, head studs, LCA bolts, brake caliper bolts, etc.
-Get a metric tap/die kit. trust me you need one. it's saved my *** so many times...
-Lightweight batteries kick ***. the Hawker Genesis has been one of the best mods i've ever done, it's still working day in day out (it's going on about 3 years) and costs $60. It takes about 25 lbs off the front of the car, and in front of the axles which makes it even better. Unless you live in cold weather or have a massive system to power, it's a great way to save some weight.
-if there's a clunk coming from the suspension, and it's not shock knock, chances are it's the sway bar. if there's a whiz coming from the transmission when you're pressing the clutch, chances are it's the TOB or something on the clutch disk. if there's a whirring coming from the front end, it's prob your wheel bearing.
-make nice with a local machine shop so they don't rape you when you need a quick press job done. same applies for your local tire shop--it was great getting tires mounted for $10/piece vs. the 15+ they charge everyone else.
-get a lifetime alignment. if you've got coilovers, get a lifetime alignment. it'll save you money not only on alignments, but on tires too.
-keep an eye on your tire pressures at the track. 2 psi DOES make a difference, and you've got 4 tires to monitor so you've got your hands full every time you come in off the track. in general, lower pressures mean more grip, until your sidewalls become the weak link, but higher pressures can mean better turn in. find your balance.
-cornerweighting: you dropped all that money on the adjustable suspension, use it to its full potential. there's nothing more beautiful than driving a properly cornerweighted car for the first time.
-clay bars = teh sex. don't overdo it, but definitely get to know the joys of using a claybar once or twice a year.
I can't think of anything else at the moment, but i'm sure there's more. i'll bbl...
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (bad-monkey)
i should have made a thread like this when i sold my prelude.
I agree with everything you just said...esp the shock knock part. I thought I had shock knock but it ended up being a crack on the swaybar mounts.
i'll be seeing you around the motorcycle forums though
I agree with everything you just said...esp the shock knock part. I thought I had shock knock but it ended up being a crack on the swaybar mounts.
i'll be seeing you around the motorcycle forums though
Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (bad-monkey)
Wow... Good stuff..
We need people to leave more often.. Na, just messin'.
Great info, can't wait for more!
We need people to leave more often..
Na, just messin'.Great info, can't wait for more!
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 0
From: New York, USA
Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (vinuneuro)
its sad...its like a grandfather giving his grandson some quick life lessons while layin in a hospital bed waitin to go
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From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (bad-monkey)
good advice, and thanks for you 5000+ posts to help other out. I'm sure you will be missed,
good luck,
p.s. keep the lude,
good luck,
p.s. keep the lude,
Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good advice, and thanks for you 5000+ posts to help other out. I'm sure you will be missed,
good luck,
p.s. keep the lude,</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
good luck,
p.s. keep the lude,</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,410
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Re: (alphajesse)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most everything on there agreed, in particular the joining preludeonline.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its a nice site, but it is DEAD. Been on there lately? I joined HT becasue my questions were not or could not be answered on PO.
H-T, FTW!
Its a nice site, but it is DEAD. Been on there lately? I joined HT becasue my questions were not or could not be answered on PO.
H-T, FTW!
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
Re: (alphajesse)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most everything on there agreed, in particular the joining preludeonline.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever....that place is pure WHACK!!!
whatever....that place is pure WHACK!!!
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,284
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From: New York, USA
Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (Hawkze_2.3)
does any1 else hear that? i think its, yup it is...i hear taps playing
Modified by rawNAprelude at 12:36 PM 2/24/2007
Modified by rawNAprelude at 12:36 PM 2/24/2007
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,357
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From: Cantonment, FL
Re: (hu)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its a nice site, but it is DEAD. Been on there lately? I joined HT becasue my questions were not or could not be answered on PO.
H-T, FTW!</TD></TR></TABLE>
parts classifieds always has traffic.
sorry to see you go, maybe you'll poke your head in every now and then???
Its a nice site, but it is DEAD. Been on there lately? I joined HT becasue my questions were not or could not be answered on PO.
H-T, FTW!</TD></TR></TABLE>
parts classifieds always has traffic.
sorry to see you go, maybe you'll poke your head in every now and then???
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Posts: 1,900
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From: TX, USA
Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (Hawkze_2.3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck to you bad-monkey and thanks for all the good info!</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,818
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From: Looking for SloMofo....
Re: farewell thread w/ some pearls of wisdom dispensed throughout: (cuban)
Yuo helped me more than once on suspension questions. sad to see you go...good luck on your future endeavors
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 908
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Re: (hu)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its a nice site, but it is DEAD. Been on there lately? I joined HT becasue my questions were not or could not be answered on PO.
H-T, FTW!</TD></TR></TABLE>
What, were you asking about altezza taillights?
Its a nice site, but it is DEAD. Been on there lately? I joined HT becasue my questions were not or could not be answered on PO.
H-T, FTW!</TD></TR></TABLE>
What, were you asking about altezza taillights?
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