i have a 1991 CRX and im planning this setup and would like feedback on if you think its good and what it needs to improve. id appreciate any help thanks.

engine: JDM B16
Exhaust: Skunk 2 mega power catback.
Headers: DC sport 4-2-1
short shifter: B&m precison
Strut bar: Dc sport front and rear
springs: eibach sportline
camshaft: buddyclub
Cold air intake: AEM
Turbo: Drag GEN 3

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jp05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 1991 CRX and im planning this setup and would like feedback on if you think its good and what it needs to improve. id appreciate any help thanks.

engine: JDM B16 lolz @ torque wait what toruqe.
Exhaust: Skunk 2 mega power catback. Kinda loud but a good part.
Headers: DC sport 4-2-1 Might as well stay stock... get a real header.
short shifter: B&m precison good aprt no way around it
Strut bar: Dc sport front and rear ehhh it's just a chunk of metal..
springs: eibach sportline depending might be ok, not what i'd run on anything thoughcamshaft: buddyclub ummm sure.. depends what your goals are.
Cold air intake: AEM filter on a stick &gt; aem.
Turbo: Drag GEN 3 way too much for the offering of that kit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am pretty, brush my hair

 

b16a sucks get a real engine like one that costs $1500 more for 15 lb/ft of torque. aka b18c
i mean, who wants a rev-happy engine with an ideal rod/stroke ratio?
duh, turbocharging an engine will NEVER make up for ~200cc's of displacement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFBhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16a sucks get a real engine like one that costs $1500 more for 15 lb/ft of torque. aka b18c
i mean, who wants a rev-happy engine with an ideal rod/stroke ratio?
duh, turbocharging an engine will NEVER make up for ~200cc's of displacement.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know ideal R/S ratio is so laughable I will point first then laugh at you.

Look at the rpm that measly 15 ft lbs comes on at comparied to where a b16 peaks.

If hitting 7K just to merge and make it through a yellow light is cool I guess b16s are awesome.

As far as mid range and low end d16a6s even out do a b16.

B16s are nothing more then over sized motorcylce motors with alot less revs and stuffed into a lot heavier ride.

 

FYI: If you're going turbo, you can't have a DC sports header.


Oh and you only have 1 header, not headers.

 

your Buddy club cam shaft better able to work w\ ur pistons, if they are to aggressive they you will lose power.
do you have any of this done yet??? beside the motor swap?? its a lot harder and EXPENSIVE than you think, the turbo is gonna be a big kick right ther in ur rump

 

start searching about stuff too, or your gonna get eatin alive?
some helpful advice

 

no i was just wondering about the setup. if anypne has a good setup or whats the best engine for me im trying to get a 300-350 hp car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jp05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i was just wondering about the setup. if anypne has a good setup or whats the best engine for me im trying to get a 300-350 hp car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ls1 bone stock

if you really want a 300 whp car dig around in the tuning and forced induction settings see what kind of setups lay 300 and if you like the power graphs they make and if you can afford it.

 

whats the best engine h22, b16, or b18? im new to the scene so cut me some slack and help me out lol

 

um, H22a, High compression pistons, around 12-13, stage three cams, PndP head work, new valvetrain and rods, exhaust, intake mani, bored throttle body,
and that prob wont take u up to 300 but it will be a beast, i have a friend w\ a simaler set up and he is knocking out turbo cars and a bunch of V8's, but you are looking at a bunch of money.

For the B16 to be a beast you are looking at about 5000 more dallors to put on a reliable turbo set up, with nothing halfway done. my seggestion is to start searching on things you are intrested in

 

um B16&lt;B18c&lt;H22
if ur talking about stoke depends on what you want, and the circumstances,
for instance b16 turbo &gt; b18 , but B18 turbo &gt;h22, if you are talking bout bone stock which is more of a beast, then the H monster

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jp05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the best engine h22, b16, or b18? im new to the scene so cut me some slack and help me out lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
all the slack you need is in the search.
You guys are luckly we've broken **** and learned the hard way, you jsut have to hit a few keys, and find out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You know ideal R/S ratio is so laughable I will point first then laugh at you.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, you really backed up your argument there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Look at the rpm that measly 15 ft lbs comes on at comparied to where a b16 peaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, i just did. it arrives approximately 1k rpm sooner.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If hitting 7K just to merge and make it through a yellow light is cool I guess b16s are awesome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep. hitting 6K in a b18c makes you even cooler.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As far as mid range and low end d16a6s even out do a b16.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

and after mid-range, then what?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
B16s are nothing more then over sized motorcylce motors with alot less revs and stuffed into a lot heavier ride.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can say the same thing about any honda 4-cylinder. because in case you didn't know, honda started in motorcycles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
all the slack you need is in the search.
You guys are luckly we've broken **** and learned the hard way, you jsut have to hit a few keys, and find out.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Max for president!!
jk, yea u need to search,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFBhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow, you really backed up your argument there.

I don't need to, anyone whom builds motors or knows the theory gets it.

OK, i just did. it arrives approximately 1k rpm sooner.

Yes, and stays there too 1000 rpm is a good change esp being the b18c 1/5 go atleast to 8200 as well.

yep. hitting 6K in a b18c makes you even cooler.

I much rather hit 2500 in my ls1

and after mid-range, then what?

Then it winds down, just pointing out how narrow power band the b16 has.

you can say the same thing about any honda 4-cylinder. because in case you didn't know, honda started in motorcycles
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get over yourself, Nothing is wrong with admiting daily driving dragging or using a b16 isn't the best.

The list of why a b18c being better is miles long. The only down side is cost. Or you can do an lsvtec legally and safely for less then a b16. my lsvtec off my slicks mounted to a ls tranny of sadnes pulls on modded b16s like no joke.

If you wanta bring up turbo to match displacement. TT ls1 Try beating that with 1600ccs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Max The Amazing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you wanta bring up turbo to match displacement. TT ls1 Try beating that with 1600ccs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK. I bet I can. a 1600cc motorcycle.

TT LS1 sounds insane.

anyway, i think we have come to an understanding here. all i am trying to point out is that while a b18c is almost always better than a b16a, the bang-for-buck factor combined with specific applications makes the b16 less than a total piece of ****.

 

wtf you want headers and aem intake and turbo? you need to stop reading those damn ricer magazines..seriously all the parts you listed are what you see in magazines..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFBhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OK. I bet I can. a 1600cc motorcycle.

TT LS1 sounds insane.

anyway, i think we have come to an understanding here. all i am trying to point out is that while a b18c is almost always better than a b16a, the bang-for-buck factor combined with specific applications makes the b16 less than a total piece of ****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already have some parts for TT ls1, starting spool @ 2300 meaning if i touch the gas it'll be ready but not boosting even on the highway.

using a bike is cheating

Other then if you get a smoking deal, or it's in a car you buy, i still don't see why anyone does b16s anymore, back when I had mine, it was the best you could do. Other then a GSR or C5.

Am I dating my self? lol

 

why a b16 still today? for me, it was because i could get 2 of them for the price of 1 b18c.
run one NA in the crx, build the other for turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jp05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 1991 CRX and im planning this setup and would like feedback on if you think its good and what it needs to improve. id appreciate any help thanks.

engine: JDM B16
Exhaust: 3" catback,delete cat or get a high flow 3",
Headers: none
short shifter: B&m precison
Strut bar: none
springs: eibach sportline
camshaft: stock
Cold air intake: none
Turbo: custom kit with t3/t4e,450cc injectors,140+lph fuel pump and BRE custom ecu
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

im thinking of doing a b18c5 with a turbo now. with skunk2 exhaust and b&m precison short shifter. let me know what else would be good i want a daily driver and weekend street racer.

 

you need to be realistic..for that engine its $4000 legit..just for the engine swap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jp05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me know what else would be good i want a daily driver and weekend street racer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so do you mean that you need someone to drive you around on a daily basis AND someone to drive your Grand Prix racecars?

 

go b20 with, sir transmission, skunk2 intake, a good intake/header, and you'll smoke all the b16's, and will be much cheaper b16=overated