Next month I'm swapping my engine so it's easier to replace a new clutch and flywheel.

After searching some days on every clutch topic in the Prelude Section, I changed my mind not going for go with the ACT (the street clutch; HDSS) but probably Competition Clutches. I read some horror stories about some ACT clutches (regarding the Heady Duty Pressure Plate) and read some very good reviews about the Competition Clutch (link: http://www.competitionclutch.c...sport ) The sell a really good clutch / flywheel combo, but I want wo make sure I spend my money right.

The Combo is about the Stage 2 or the Stage 4 clutch.

Stage II says: "...is properly suited for aggressive street use and moderate track use."

Stage IV: Strip Clutch

My setup: H22, Vibrant 2.5" coll. header, RS*R Exmag, intake etc. Nothing special. The engine and mod's gives about 215 hp (didn't dynod it jet). Let's say, with future mods I'm staying under 250 hp so under 220 whp.

It's a daily driver, 50% highway 50 % short (city) distances, so it's very important that the clutch will go very smoothly and not an on/off clutch. So 'feeling like OEM' will be perfect. But there are times when I want to kick his ***, so being resistant hitting 8000 rpm in first and second and third is a must.

In the topics I read, many ppl run the Stage 4 clutch from Competition. I think this 6 puck is to much for my setup and driving.
What I like to know are three things:
1. Isn't the Stage II clutch from Competition enough for my setup and my driving style?
2. Howmuch hp/torque can this Stage II handle (future upgrades on the car)?
3. Is someone running the Competition Stage 2 Clutch?

 

I have a Stage 4 6 puck in my track car, and a friend has a 4 puck IronMan in his track car. Both clutches will chatter unless you slip them a bit on start up.

I would say the Stage 4 is definitely overkill for your application, and if you're looking for stock like engagement, don't buy a Stage 4. They're actually overkill in my situation, but we wanted clutches that will handle heat well since these are track cars.

If you have the money, I'd say buy the Stage 3. I've sold two Stage 3 clutches so far, and while they're expensive, the owners have raved about the clutch. They say it grabs very well, but is very, very smooth.

I'd say a Stage 2 would be fine for you, but if you want additional heat and holding capability, consider the Stage 3. I've never seen anyone exceed the limits of the Stage 2 or 3, so I can't say how much either will hold.

We installed a Stage 1 in a 97 Prelude a few months ago, and the owner said it chatters some, but I think his engine mounts make the problem worse, plus he doesn't slip the clutch much.

 

Well for starters I've seen some people on these boards with alot more than i/h/e.. like cams, pistons, port and polish ecu with dyno tune ect. who are making around 200hp so I dont think, grip is going to be a big problem with your setup even if you were to add some of the latter mentioned mods.

I went for a 6 puck clutch specialties with my first h22a swap and it was a love/hate relationship. I hated it anytime other than when I was at the drag strip. In retrospect it was overkill for my setup (i/h/e vafc and a 50 shot)

on the h22 I just put in, because my old one got pwnd by a oil pump failure I went with an exceedy stage 1 mounted to an xact street flywheel, I'm very pleased with both, and its still more griping force than I practicly need. Vafc and nitrous got ebayed to pay for the new engine so I just have i/h/e.

If you really decide to get hardcore with your engine down the road then putting in a new stage 2 or 3 or 4 ect. clutch won't be as big a deal as the other mods you'd be undergoing... just my opinion

I understand you want to prep your car for future mods, I did and then ran out of $ for them and hated myself for it everytime I got stuck in traffic on the freeway.

my .02 cents: exceedy stage 1

 

Both of you, for some good info.

I've looked for the Stage 3 and it's about 100 bucks more then the Stage 2. Not that much of a deal, so I'm considering it.

However, CC doesn't give a Stage 3 in his topic here at H-T, but I think it would be possible to arrange something : http://www.hondamarketplace.co...age=1

I think the Stage 2 is enough for my setup, but it's also a plecent feeling when knowing the Stage 3 will give you additional heat and holding capability. Do I need that? hmm , dont know...

So the Stage 3 grabs very well. I think it's important that it grabs hard when it needs to and grabs smoothly (as OEM) when I'm crossing the city. But I think both Stages will perform that way, right?

Eitherway, bot stages will perform better then the stock clutch, so which one I choose, it's still holding heat better, grabs better and handles the torque better then the stock H22 clutch...

 

I’d say the stage2 will be more than enough for your car.

According to Competition Clutch the stage2 clutch is rated to hold 80% more power and torque than the stock clutch.

So, if the stock clutch can handle 200hp (flywheel) and 212Nm (flywheel), the stage2 should be good for 360hp (flywheel) and 380Nm (flywheel).



Modified by Nakajima at 7:35 AM 2/23/2007

 

More then tru

 

competition is good stuff, from what tony1 told me

 

What about there flywheels?

The combo is about a Stage II or Stage IV clutch with an Lightweight Flywheel or an Ultra Light Flywheel. For me it's gonna be the Lightweight which is 13.7 lbs.

The only thing is, the Competition Clutch site says for both Flywheels:
Meets and exceeds SFI 1.5.

The Fidanza Flywheel or the ProstreetOnline one says Meets and exceeds SFI 1.1.

What's about those numbers? Is it telling me the quality of the materials which are used or the strenght?

I think the combo from CC is a good one, only, I've never heard something about there Flywheels and the quality of them. Anyone here can?

 

Also remember, that using a harsher, higher stage clutch than you need only decreases the drivability of the car and puts more stress on the transmission & thrust bearings.
That’s why I’d rather stick with the stage2 on a daily driven NA car.

I have a CC lightweight flywheel lying in front of me, and it looks pretty well made.
I’ll only be able to comment on the driving experience once I’ve fitted it though.

 

How do competition clutches compare to clutch masters?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nakajima &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a CC lightweight flywheel lying in front of me, and it looks pretty well made.
I’ll only be able to comment on the driving experience once I’ve fitted it though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thx

More ppl have opinions about there Flywheels?

 

I use their chromoly ultralightweight flywheel. No issues at all.

 

But what about their "Meets and exceeds SFI 1.5" Is this about the materials they use? Are those materials less from quality as an SFI 1.1 Flywheel? Or don't I have to worry about that one?

 

i have a ACT 6 puck no springs...a little hard for people who havent driven a prelude....even some drag guys cant drive my car...weird i just laugh when the car dies and they cant balance/etc....but im just hoping they dont destroy my clutch...it grabs pretty good..but i want a 4 puck though...

 

I wouldn't worry about it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black-Engine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But what about their "Meets and exceeds SFI 1.5" Is this about the materials they use? Are those materials less from quality as an SFI 1.1 Flywheel? Or don't I have to worry about that one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Ok, thx...

Well, I just got an IM from the CC-seller on H-T. The saleprice from 499 bucks is over. It's know the retailsalesprice from 550. Well, **** happens

 

I would go with an OEM throwout bearing instead of the ACT one
that comes with the kit. I've heard bad news about the ACT one.

 

Hey bud...not sure who you were dealing with but check this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1772597 he's a distributor and has the best prices i have seen! Hope this helps

 

Thanks man I was looking at an other seller, but that sales is over since 3 days ago.

I've IM-ed this seller from your link. Hope he has the Stage II and Flywheel in stock

 

I can vouch for Chris from Xenocron. He is a cool guy and his prices are real good.

 

I had a stage 2 Competition Clutch with 8lb flywheel and burned it up on a stock prelude in a little over a year.

I am about to go to a Stage 5, 4 puck...

But I am going Turbo...so yeah.

But I don't really know what to say about the stage 2, I might have just gotten a bad one.

I have 2 other friends who have had Competition clutches for YEARS and have loved them.

 

And those friends run also the Stage II from CC?

And you burned your clutch? By doing what? A lot of strip/drag use? Or just normal daily driving? Getting such a clutch burned is pretty rare on a stock car...

 

I have the competition clutch stage IV (sprung) with the ultralightweight flywheel in my track car and it's great

I used to have an act HDSS with the fidanza flywheel & I find that the competition clutch is better (grips better & really doesn't chatter that much - probably b/c I opted for the sprung version) I would recommend it for a track car in a second. It might be slight overkill for the street though but it can still be driven comfortably on the street

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black-Engine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And those friends run also the Stage II from CC?

And you burned your clutch? By doing what? A lot of strip/drag use? Or just normal daily driving? Getting such a clutch burned is pretty rare on a stock car...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it slips so bad its almost undriveable. And I never took the car to the track and only launched it on occasions. Though I was a little rough on it, I didn't do anything to it that would cause it to fail this quickly. I am guessing one of two things happened.

1. The clutch itself was bad.

2. Something happened that caused the clutch to fail prematurely.

And my other 2 buddies are running Stage 5 Competition Clutches. Both are turbo'ed. But the company it self is great.

 

That doesn't sound normal at all.
Did you take the time to break the clutch in properly?
Are you in the habit of riding on the clutch?
Any sign that it might have been your main rear seal that leaked oil onto the clutch?
Are there any coolant leaks where the upper radiator hose's knuckle meets the head?
Coolant leaks there might be difficult to spot since the coolant will dry very quickly,
but if some drips onto the clutch it will definitely cause it to slip badly.