I bought this crx last year, and it has H&R lowering springs, from the looks of it, they are ok, they are on stock struts I believe and stock knuckle. Rim/Tire size is only 185/65/14. The car's camber was terribley off, so I put a camber kit in, adjusted it the best I could by eye, getting an alignment eventually. Now my problem is, the upper control arm is hitting the fender wall, not the fender, but like the frame by the control arm, one side is almost touching and the otherside its hitting the it. I will try to let the pics explain, if anyone has an answer I would love to hear it, I was thinking about taking a die grinder and cutting it out so it fits or hammering it, it's just the end of the control arm, by the balljoint thats hitting it, any suggestions please, and thank you in advance.
Drivers side:
Passangers side:


Modified by slow91crxdx at 4:55 PM 2/22/2007

 

what size rims do you have

 

they are only 14's tire size are 185/65/14, they are alittle bigger than recommended 60's but I figured it shouldn't matter that much or make it hit.

 

hmm I thought you got some 18"s or something. I would take this post to the suspenison part

 

no solutions? I know something has to be wrong or I can do something to fix it.

 

i had the same problem with that style camber kit...i beat the fender well in a lil and beat on the upper control are a lil and it barely cleared , then when i took it to get it align he got it to clear by alil more... i dont know what to tell u. lol. other then that. good luck.

 

How low does the car sit? The only thing I can think of is that your H&R's are cut. When I first put my GC's on they were set way to low and I had the same problem but the wheels were tucking like crazy so it made sense that the A arms would be slamming against the top. Maybe post a pic of the ride height.

 

Here is a pic of the cars height, the front does kinda seem lower than the rear, but the motor is also in the front. I dunno, is there anyway to tell if they are cut?

 

I know the car is ugly lol, but anymore help, I plan on painting it soon, has hardly any rust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow91crxdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know the car is ugly lol, but anymore help, I plan on painting it soon, has hardly any rust. </TD></TR></TABLE>

common problem man. this camber Kit (ingalls) is a good kit but as you have seen it takes some fine tuning to get your clearance right. I ground down (&lt;grammer??) my pinch weld there and also ground down the A-arm right where it touched the fender well. I made sure to leave enough meat on the A-arm though to make sure not to weaken the structure. I have skunk 2 coilovers (which I recommend) and tokico 5-ways and it gives me much more room for dialing it in. I still run about .5 to 1.0 or so of negative camber for better handling and to be able to clear the fender wells. like I said man I have seen this on all 4 CRXs I have owned and MANY others I have worked on, no big deal. It just takes some trial and error to find your perfect setup

 

not even sitting that low, im stumped but its hard to tell from pictures

 

The scary part is the one side that is almost clearing it, the passanger side, is over cambered, and the otherside looks almost lined up straight. Can I just take a hammer and bang it out alittle, and than adjust the camber, or just try to get it to clear? I don't wanna bring it somewhere and have them charge me an arm and a leg. I plan on getting it aligned soon, VtecSyndrome you wouldn't happen to have any pics of this would ya, otherwise care if I pm you to talk out alittle more detail?

 

it looks like you have an adjustable camber kit...either set it so the camber is more negative and the control arm will clear or cut that part out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gnar kill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks like you have an adjustable camber kit...either set it so the camber is more negative and the control arm will clear or cut that part out</TD></TR></TABLE>

a little of both is the best solution though

 

Alright, I worked on it alittle and here are the results. I set the camber all the way negative on both sides, it clears the pinch weld or whatever you wanna call it, but not by much and now if I push down on the hood or sit on it, I can hear the upper arm hitting the shock towers on both sides, is there really any solution for this? Other than integra front Knuckle, which I don't really wanna do, otherwise new springs? Either stock, or coilovers? Any more help would be appricate, just sick of the damn suspension on this car.

 

Any help or suggestions? anyone?

 

ummm...maybe you have different knuckles

possibly DC knuckles? i know those really mess up things in a crx haha

 

pretty sure they are crx knuckles, anyway to tell? If not what are some good kinda inexpensive coilovers? I have some cheapys might want wanna get better than that, and I'll just raise the car some, and it should take care of my problem.

 

I agree, I have had to grind the ends of the UCA off as much as possible without compromising structural integrity, as well as beat the hell out of the pinch weld with a BFH until I got the desired clearance a couple times myself, but the car is always fine thereafter.

 

This is common. I am surprised you have already not gotten more responses:

Grind the end of the UCA. That seems to be the common solution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow91crxdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, I worked on it alittle and here are the results. I set the camber all the way negative on both sides, it clears the pinch weld or whatever you wanna call it, but not by much and now if I push down on the hood or sit on it, I can hear the upper arm hitting the shock towers on both sides, is there really any solution for this? Other than integra front Knuckle, which I don't really wanna do, otherwise new springs? Either stock, or coilovers? Any more help would be appricate, just sick of the damn suspension on this car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as the UCA hitting the frame or shock tower area, I would say get some new struts but NOT FACTORY!! looks like you already have OEM on there and they are probably blown by the sounds of it. Get some Tokicos, either blues (too soft IMO) or go the right way w/ some 5-way adjustables ($350.00 shipped on Ebay) and it won't bottom out like it's doing not too mention you will LOVE the performance out of them. They also work Excellent with skunk 2 coilovers which are only like $225.00 or so. cheap coilovers and cheap struts will just cause more problems, for instance don't go w/ cheap *** KYB struts and some sorry *** coilovers w/ unmatched spring rates cause the struts will just blow out on you and you'll have to replace them and the coilovers won't fit right or ride well. Tokicos are gauranteed for life and pretty much never blow out. I used to sale them years ago so that's how I know, I also have been running that setup on all 6 Hondas I've owned over the last 10 years or so. unfortunately you will have to spend some money to really get this right so you can actually ENJOY your CRX. With the camber kit you already have and the suspension I mentioned you will eliminate your suspension woes (I assume you already have the a-arm & pinch weld ground down).

 

Ever get your problem situated?

 

just stick a pry bar up there with the car 1/2 jacked up, put it between the inner fender wall and the UCA, then start bending the inner fender wall away from the UCA. do that until it clears. i had to do it with mine, and now its money money magic. PS, its not easy, the unibody is strong, so use some elbow grease.
Dan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just stick a pry bar up there with the car 1/2 jacked up, put it between the inner fender wall and the UCA, then start bending the inner fender wall away from the UCA. do that until it clears. i had to do it with mine, and now its money money magic. PS, its not easy, the unibody is strong, so use some elbow grease.
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds a little barbaric to me (no offense), you may actually be prying more than you know doing it that way. I would say the grinding/hammering method is a little more precise w/o worry of of messing anything else up w/ all the leverage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow91crxdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>
after you get it riding right take care of the body work... it hurts to see a rex in that shape...