Well I thinks I need an LSD next or can I be faster still w/ open diff w/ even more throttle modulation?

Here's a few laps of me following a friend at Streets of Willow CW config.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OJcbAaPmXU

His mods:
235/40-17" Hankook RS2
K20A2 - Buddy Club Spec (3 or 4 I dont know) cams, 250hp @ Church Auto
4.7 FD, OEM ITR LSD, Buddy Club RSDs 10/16k

My mods:
235/40-17" Azenis RT-615
K20A2 - stock internals, just bolt-ons
BASE RSX 5spd tranny = whack gearing, and open diff

On a few corner I wasn't going for smoothness...as stupid as it may sound I was doing more of testing the car's limits, i.e. getting the rear to slide out etc as I was pretty upset at how the car was handling that day

--i.e. take note of how the car accelerates out of a turn.
Think I could have been faster w/ better throttle modulation even w/ open diff?

 

I have Type R tranny with 5.062FD, and Kaaz LSD for sale. Asking $2200.

If it is not sold by this weekend, I'm going to crack it opne and sell the LSD seperately. Let me know if you are interested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I thinks I need an LSD next or can I be faster still w/ open diff w/ even more throttle modulation?

Here's a few laps of me following a friend at Streets of Willow CW config.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OJcbAaPmXU

His mods:
235/40-17" Hankook RS2
K20A2 - Buddy Club Spec (3 or 4 I dont know) cams, 250hp @ Church Auto
4.7 FD, OEM ITR LSD, Buddy Club RSDs 10/16k

My mods:
235/40-17" Azenis RT-615
K20A2 - stock internals, just bolt-ons
BASE RSX 5spd tranny = whack gearing, and open diff

On a few corner I wasn't going for smoothness...as stupid as it may sound I was doing more of testing the car's limits, i.e. getting the rear to slide out etc as I was pretty upset at how the car was handling that day

--i.e. take note of how the car accelerates out of a turn.
Think I could have been faster w/ better throttle modulation even w/ open diff?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you need an LSD or torque biasing differential. For street and track double duty, a nice helical type diff. such as Quaife offers good coupling between wheels and is pretty much maintenance free. Even for racing, the Quaife is very effective as long as you don't unload the inside front wheel by heavily using the FIA curbing (tiger teeth) to get through corners quickly. Because unloading one wheel will cause the helical type differential to act like an open differential.

For clutch pack systems (Carbonetics, KAAZ, Mugen, ect.), the locking or torque transfer between the two axles increases as the input torque increases. You will get to choose between 1, 1.5, and 2 way type systems. The 2 way system is not recommended for street, but it is used extensively by the drifting set and for rear wheel drive racecars. It is locked whether the input torque is increasing or decreasing. The one way type is safest since when you lift off the throttle, the clutch pack unloads and the unit acts like an open diff. The 1.5 way is somewhere in between the 1 and 2 way types in that it still locks somewhat while its in the deceleration mode. The 1.5 way is the preferred front wheel drive road racing setup, especially for beginning racers who still are trying to find the limits of traction without going over.

The only disadvantage with clutch pack systems is the required maintenance of expensive fluid changing intervals and clutch disk wear. In addition, you need to bed in the clutch disks properly by following the manufacturers recommendations. KAAZ recommends driving in figure 8's for 30 minutes to break in their units.

So, choose a unit based on your driving habits and abilities and whether you prefer maintenance free (mostly) or you don't mind the oil change intervals and R and R'ing the clutch packs every so often. For most applications, the Quaife is preferable, however, you know yourself better and could take some of these other aforementioned factors into account to make a decision of whats best for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, you need an LSD or torque biasing differential. For street and track double duty, a nice helical type diff. such as Quaife offers good coupling between wheels and is pretty much maintenance free. Even for racing, the Quaife is very effective as long as you don't unload the inside front wheel by heavily using the FIA curbing (tiger teeth) to get through corners quickly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agree completely!!

Moreover, the Honda/Acura OEM type Torsen axles are really a very good buy for what they do.

 

So does anyone think I could be a little bit faster at corner exit at all w/ more throttle modulation? Specifically at the last turn before the front straight, theres a LOT of wheel spin and it didn't seem to be too bumpy in that area, yet the RPMs always jumped from the wheels spinning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So does anyone think I could be a little bit faster at corner exit at all w/ more throttle modulation? Specifically at the last turn before the front straight, theres a LOT of wheel spin and it didn't seem to be too bumpy in that area, yet the RPMs always jumped from the wheels spinning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely. With all that torque, you will always need to apply power smoothly regardless whether you have an LSD. The LSD will just allow you to apply more power to the ground before wheelspin occurs. Even with my 120 whp CRX equipped with a Quaife, I have to apply power carefully in lower speed corners to avoid wheelspin. You really want to be at the threshold of wheelspin though to maximize drive out of the corner. When you have wheelspin, the coefficient of friction (traction) is significantly less than it is right at threshold traction. So when you're at the track, try very hard to get to threshold traction without going over and you will be rewarded with better lap times, tires that both last longer and take longer to overheat in a given session, and the knowledge that you have properly harnessed the power of your engine.

As Shakespear said in Macbeth, "Full of sound and fury, signifying nothing"

 

Threshold being at the point where it's not spinning (the only way I know how to tell I'm getting wheel spin is by the RPMs jumping erratically)?

I'll definitely be doing more events w/ open diff as I don't have 2gs to drop into a 6spd tranny + LSD right now. But I DO know an LSD is something I definitely want.

At the very least, the more practice w/ open diff won't hurt either.

 

I think it's time for me to get one too now.

 

I think it's time for me to get one too now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'll definitely be doing more events w/ open diff as I don't have 2gs to drop into a 6spd tranny + LSD right now. But I DO know an LSD is something I definitely want.

At the very least, the more practice w/ open diff won't hurt either. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true with the practice part.

I'm in the same boat bro. Unless I grind a gear hard core and need to do some repairs, the 6spd isn't getting an LSD. It's hard to pass up deals when I see a Type R or Andrie Hartanto's pimped tranny though but now I have to pass them up. I just bought KoniRace Spss3s and springs I think a sound suspension should come before LSD.. .