best method for power per $ spent
which is the best way to go per $ spent while staying N/A?
more performance parts (all motor 2+ liter stroker, i/h/e, gears) or less weight (carbon fiber panels [trunk, hood, doors, fenders], carbon monocoque seats, titanium header/exhaust, lightweight forged rims)? let's also say that you can't gut the car for either route (so soft top, A/C, stereo, carpeting, etc must remain for both methods).
ultimately, im wondering which method would yield the best power to weight ratio and leave you with the most change. high quality performance parts are undoubtedly pricey, but so is carbon fiber and titanium.
more performance parts (all motor 2+ liter stroker, i/h/e, gears) or less weight (carbon fiber panels [trunk, hood, doors, fenders], carbon monocoque seats, titanium header/exhaust, lightweight forged rims)? let's also say that you can't gut the car for either route (so soft top, A/C, stereo, carpeting, etc must remain for both methods).
ultimately, im wondering which method would yield the best power to weight ratio and leave you with the most change. high quality performance parts are undoubtedly pricey, but so is carbon fiber and titanium.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which is the best way to go per $ spent while staying N/A?
more performance parts (all motor 2+ liter stroker, i/h/e, gears) or less weight (carbon fiber panels [trunk, hood, doors, fenders], carbon monocoque seats, titanium header/exhaust, lightweight forged rims)? let's also say that you can't gut the car for either route (so soft top, A/C, stereo, carpeting, etc must remain for both methods).
ultimately, im wondering which method would yield the best power to weight ratio and leave you with the most change. high quality performance parts are undoubtedly pricey, but so is carbon fiber and titanium.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, taking off chassis weight is one thing. But if you wanna get really far, take off ROTATING weight. A SINGLE pound of rotating weight off the engine equates to the same result as something like 33 pounds of static chassis weight. Lightened flywheel, pulleys (not sure if they make any for the S), and the such. You could also try lighter wheels. This will increase your handling because you're reducing unsprung weight and your suspension will react faster. Plus it takes off rotating weight as well. I've heard gears are a good thing to have also.
Taking off chassis weight and replacing stuff with carbon fiber and titanium can be expensive and it takes away from the driveability of the car sometimes. Plus you dont get very noticeable results unless you go nuts and trust me, chicks dont dig gutted out cars with uncomfortable seats. Driving a gutted car with seats that give you a san quentin style pounding can get old after ..about...a...day...or ...5 mins...or so. Taking off rotating weight keeps you cushy, but makes your car faster.
Intakes are also a good method. AEM's V2 is a great bang for the buck. They have dyno charts on the AEM website. I think its something like 8-9 hp on the top end.
NA is probably a good way to stay. Keeps it simple, and reliable.
more performance parts (all motor 2+ liter stroker, i/h/e, gears) or less weight (carbon fiber panels [trunk, hood, doors, fenders], carbon monocoque seats, titanium header/exhaust, lightweight forged rims)? let's also say that you can't gut the car for either route (so soft top, A/C, stereo, carpeting, etc must remain for both methods).
ultimately, im wondering which method would yield the best power to weight ratio and leave you with the most change. high quality performance parts are undoubtedly pricey, but so is carbon fiber and titanium.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, taking off chassis weight is one thing. But if you wanna get really far, take off ROTATING weight. A SINGLE pound of rotating weight off the engine equates to the same result as something like 33 pounds of static chassis weight. Lightened flywheel, pulleys (not sure if they make any for the S), and the such. You could also try lighter wheels. This will increase your handling because you're reducing unsprung weight and your suspension will react faster. Plus it takes off rotating weight as well. I've heard gears are a good thing to have also.
Taking off chassis weight and replacing stuff with carbon fiber and titanium can be expensive and it takes away from the driveability of the car sometimes. Plus you dont get very noticeable results unless you go nuts and trust me, chicks dont dig gutted out cars with uncomfortable seats. Driving a gutted car with seats that give you a san quentin style pounding can get old after ..about...a...day...or ...5 mins...or so. Taking off rotating weight keeps you cushy, but makes your car faster.
Intakes are also a good method. AEM's V2 is a great bang for the buck. They have dyno charts on the AEM website. I think its something like 8-9 hp on the top end.
NA is probably a good way to stay. Keeps it simple, and reliable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, taking off chassis weight is one thing. But if you wanna get really far, take off ROTATING weight. A SINGLE pound of rotating weight off the engine equates to the same result as something like 33 pounds of static chassis weight. Lightened flywheel, pulleys (not sure if they make any for the S), and the such. You could also try lighter wheels. This will increase your handling because you're reducing unsprung weight and your suspension will react faster. Plus it takes off rotating weight as well. I've heard gears are a good thing to have also.
Taking off chassis weight and replacing stuff with carbon fiber and titanium can be expensive and it takes away from the driveability of the car sometimes. Plus you dont get very noticeable results unless you go nuts and trust me, chicks dont dig gutted out cars with uncomfortable seats. Driving a gutted car with seats that give you a san quentin style pounding can get old after ..about...a...day...or ...5 mins...or so. Taking off rotating weight keeps you cushy, but makes your car faster.
Intakes are also a good method. AEM's V2 is a great bang for the buck. They have dyno charts on the AEM website. I think its something like 8-9 hp on the top end.
NA is probably a good way to stay. Keeps it simple, and reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
? did you even read my post?
i mentioned lighter wheels, gears, no gutting, intakes, staying N/A...
Taking off chassis weight and replacing stuff with carbon fiber and titanium can be expensive and it takes away from the driveability of the car sometimes. Plus you dont get very noticeable results unless you go nuts and trust me, chicks dont dig gutted out cars with uncomfortable seats. Driving a gutted car with seats that give you a san quentin style pounding can get old after ..about...a...day...or ...5 mins...or so. Taking off rotating weight keeps you cushy, but makes your car faster.
Intakes are also a good method. AEM's V2 is a great bang for the buck. They have dyno charts on the AEM website. I think its something like 8-9 hp on the top end.
NA is probably a good way to stay. Keeps it simple, and reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
? did you even read my post?
i mentioned lighter wheels, gears, no gutting, intakes, staying N/A...
B serious: One pound of rotating weight is not 33lbs, closer to 16lbs (2 to the 4th) on static weight. Close enough though.
OP: Go to a local driving school. Buy some tires, brake pads, synthetic oil/tranny/diff fluid and beat the **** out of your car. After a couple of track days, decide on what you need to improve, then come back. PEACE!!!!
OP: Go to a local driving school. Buy some tires, brake pads, synthetic oil/tranny/diff fluid and beat the **** out of your car. After a couple of track days, decide on what you need to improve, then come back. PEACE!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Projekt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B serious: One pound of rotating weight is not 33lbs, closer to 16lbs (2 to the 4th) on static weight. Close enough though.
OP: Go to a local driving school. Buy some tires, brake pads, synthetic oil/tranny/diff fluid and beat the **** out of your car. After a couple of track days, decide on what you need to improve, then come back. PEACE!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont even have an s2k, nor would i even consider spending the money to do something like this. i was just curious on what would yield the best s2000.
i agree; driving is the best thing you can change to make your car go faster.
OP: Go to a local driving school. Buy some tires, brake pads, synthetic oil/tranny/diff fluid and beat the **** out of your car. After a couple of track days, decide on what you need to improve, then come back. PEACE!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont even have an s2k, nor would i even consider spending the money to do something like this. i was just curious on what would yield the best s2000.
i agree; driving is the best thing you can change to make your car go faster.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
? did you even read my post?
i mentioned lighter wheels, gears, no gutting, intakes, staying N/A...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm...yes i did read your post. You ASKED if those products were a good idea. I was stating that they are a good idea. You also did not mention any SPECIFIC names of intakes. I was also agreeing with not gutting your car.
Basically, you asked, out of a plethora of mods, which ones were a good idea. I picked out the ones that i thought were good, and told you.
And i have to agree with the thing about learning to drive your car. Spend some $$ on track time. Im not saying that you dont know how...but practice makes perfect.
? did you even read my post?
i mentioned lighter wheels, gears, no gutting, intakes, staying N/A...</TD></TR></TABLE>Umm...yes i did read your post. You ASKED if those products were a good idea. I was stating that they are a good idea. You also did not mention any SPECIFIC names of intakes. I was also agreeing with not gutting your car.
Basically, you asked, out of a plethora of mods, which ones were a good idea. I picked out the ones that i thought were good, and told you.
And i have to agree with the thing about learning to drive your car. Spend some $$ on track time. Im not saying that you dont know how...but practice makes perfect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont even have an s2k, nor would i even consider spending the money to do something like this. i was just curious on what would yield the best s2000.
i agree; driving is the best thing you can change to make your car go faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
curious? what sparks your curiosity? I'm only wondering since I'm confused with the intent of asking the best method for power per $ spent on a car you don't have.
i dont even have an s2k, nor would i even consider spending the money to do something like this. i was just curious on what would yield the best s2000.
i agree; driving is the best thing you can change to make your car go faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
curious? what sparks your curiosity? I'm only wondering since I'm confused with the intent of asking the best method for power per $ spent on a car you don't have.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evil vapor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">curious? what sparks your curiosity? I'm only wondering since I'm confused with the intent of asking the best method for power per $ spent on a car you don't have. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the S is an awesome piece of machinery, and it's cool to see enthusiasts do something drastic with their car, especially on something like an S2000 that is already so well-tuned out of the factory. modding the S requires a lot of money for very little improvement, and i was wondering what kind of money needed to be spent to make it something that is truly noteworthy from stock.
the S is an awesome piece of machinery, and it's cool to see enthusiasts do something drastic with their car, especially on something like an S2000 that is already so well-tuned out of the factory. modding the S requires a lot of money for very little improvement, and i was wondering what kind of money needed to be spent to make it something that is truly noteworthy from stock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, taking off chassis weight is one thing. But if you wanna get really far, take off ROTATING weight. A SINGLE pound of rotating weight off the engine equates to the same result as something like 33 pounds of static chassis weight. Lightened flywheel, pulleys (not sure if they make any for the S), and the such. You could also try lighter wheels. This will increase your handling because you're reducing unsprung weight and your suspension will react faster. Plus it takes off rotating weight as well. I've heard gears are a good thing to have also.
Taking off chassis weight and replacing stuff with carbon fiber and titanium can be expensive and it takes away from the driveability of the car sometimes. Plus you dont get very noticeable results unless you go nuts and trust me, chicks dont dig gutted out cars with uncomfortable seats. Driving a gutted car with seats that give you a san quentin style pounding can get old after ..about...a...day...or ...5 mins...or so. Taking off rotating weight keeps you cushy, but makes your car faster.
Intakes are also a good method. AEM's V2 is a great bang for the buck. They have dyno charts on the AEM website. I think its something like 8-9 hp on the top end.
NA is probably a good way to stay. Keeps it simple, and reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you are misinformed.
1lb in flywheel = 33 sprung wheel only after you mutliply it by the gear ratio, which you will never do in real life(such as starting to drag race in 6th gear), plus you lose drivablilty with a freaking light flywheel, and our stock flywheel are light to begain with.
1 lb rotation mess(aka wheel, tire combo) is only 4 lbs to the sprung wheel, a good size of change but again, not 33 to 1 like you claim
don't bother with intake, header, exhaust, ask anyone with a s2k with those part will tell you the same.
you'll get beat by a stock car with a 4.56/4.77 gear like there's no tomorrow
Well, taking off chassis weight is one thing. But if you wanna get really far, take off ROTATING weight. A SINGLE pound of rotating weight off the engine equates to the same result as something like 33 pounds of static chassis weight. Lightened flywheel, pulleys (not sure if they make any for the S), and the such. You could also try lighter wheels. This will increase your handling because you're reducing unsprung weight and your suspension will react faster. Plus it takes off rotating weight as well. I've heard gears are a good thing to have also.
Taking off chassis weight and replacing stuff with carbon fiber and titanium can be expensive and it takes away from the driveability of the car sometimes. Plus you dont get very noticeable results unless you go nuts and trust me, chicks dont dig gutted out cars with uncomfortable seats. Driving a gutted car with seats that give you a san quentin style pounding can get old after ..about...a...day...or ...5 mins...or so. Taking off rotating weight keeps you cushy, but makes your car faster.
Intakes are also a good method. AEM's V2 is a great bang for the buck. They have dyno charts on the AEM website. I think its something like 8-9 hp on the top end.
NA is probably a good way to stay. Keeps it simple, and reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you are misinformed.
1lb in flywheel = 33 sprung wheel only after you mutliply it by the gear ratio, which you will never do in real life(such as starting to drag race in 6th gear), plus you lose drivablilty with a freaking light flywheel, and our stock flywheel are light to begain with.
1 lb rotation mess(aka wheel, tire combo) is only 4 lbs to the sprung wheel, a good size of change but again, not 33 to 1 like you claim
don't bother with intake, header, exhaust, ask anyone with a s2k with those part will tell you the same.
you'll get beat by a stock car with a 4.56/4.77 gear like there's no tomorrow
My buddy put a Injen CAI on his 06 S2K and gained 6HP... so an intake does do something... baseline of his car was 211RWHP... and then after the intake install 217RWHP....which isn't bad....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Lucky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">having an S2000 is like having mugen parts. they both get you laid.
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lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
yeah, if you go with the right manufacturers, you WILL get gains. pretty sure J's has an exhaust(header back) that will get you somewhere around an extra 10whp. you gotta be willing to spend just under 2k for it
Oh yeah... $350 (Injen CAI) for 6HP... added $2100 (ASM Ti exhaust) for add'l 2HP
... now he has to get a header for the car for it to fully breathe.... then the ECU reflash... and then we will see...
We might put the exhaust on my stock car and see what kind of gains we recieve with just an exhaust added.. it might be minimal, but still.. a gain is a gain... even if it comes with a $2K price tag..
... now he has to get a header for the car for it to fully breathe.... then the ECU reflash... and then we will see...
We might put the exhaust on my stock car and see what kind of gains we recieve with just an exhaust added.. it might be minimal, but still.. a gain is a gain... even if it comes with a $2K price tag..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fish22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, if you go with the right manufacturers, you WILL get gains. pretty sure J's has an exhaust(header back) that will get you somewhere around an extra 10whp. you gotta be willing to spend just under 2k for it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's the thing abut s2000, honda did such a good job with it, alot of the so called gain is just a modified power band(most of the time you are loose low end for high end, which isn't exactly desirable for a small displacement NA engine for street) after ihe and vafc it's about the price of a supercharger.
you can't beat dollar per gain for gear
SCC dynoed kingsmotorsport's mugen'ed out ap2 and it make the exact same horsepower and torque on the dyno with some ugly powerband in between.
of course you will be faster with the less weight but it's not a good investment in any means for 10-15k
</TD></TR></TABLE>that's the thing abut s2000, honda did such a good job with it, alot of the so called gain is just a modified power band(most of the time you are loose low end for high end, which isn't exactly desirable for a small displacement NA engine for street) after ihe and vafc it's about the price of a supercharger.
you can't beat dollar per gain for gear
SCC dynoed kingsmotorsport's mugen'ed out ap2 and it make the exact same horsepower and torque on the dyno with some ugly powerband in between.
of course you will be faster with the less weight but it's not a good investment in any means for 10-15k
I need someone to install some gears for me. I wanna buy the 4.56 but I dont have the skill level to install them. anyone near sacramento CA...., iam7head or anyone, any other parts you recomend besides F/I for desent gains. Maybe cam's or hondata
you cant goo power out of any car with out a turbo or supercharger ... its never enough
but NoX would be your best bang for buck you can run a 75 shot i know of on the stock block
but NoX would be your best bang for buck you can run a 75 shot i know of on the stock block
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Lucky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">having an S2000 is like having mugen parts. they both get you laid.
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haha, nice!
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haha, nice!
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Pembroke Pines, Florida, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkturbos2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turbo. Best bang for the buck</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
x2
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Lucky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">having an S2000 is like having mugen parts. they both get you laid.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
true story...i pulled up to a bar after owning the car for 2 nights....a drunk girl came up to the car to compliment it (and my good looks
)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
true story...i pulled up to a bar after owning the car for 2 nights....a drunk girl came up to the car to compliment it (and my good looks
)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silentdancer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turbo</TD></TR></TABLE>
can't wait for mine this summaaa!!
can't wait for mine this summaaa!!


