Ok i just bought a euro r and the IACV mounts up in a different location and from what I understand uses a differnet number of wires and can only work with a JDM type s wiring harness ( I think its a 3 wire and usdm have a 2). People on here have said that they have run without one with no problems. My question is how are they having no problems without an iacv because I thought that was how your car idled by reading the vacum generated through your iacv.


Also how horrible will it idle without an FITV also, I wanted to loop the coolant lines or even run a block off plate under the TB but without both of those Idle control devices im kinda scared. I know the FITV only affects cold start but last time i tried it i ran into some problems and threw a code somehow. BTW i will be running hondata s300j so i can contol idle speed from there but im not sure if thats soley what controls idle.

 

i think rosko makes the adapter

 

yes ive talked to him.

Rosko: As far as I know the only IACV that bolts to the Euro-R is the JDM 3-wire version, then you'd have to somehow wire that up to what you've got (2 wire).

So obviously it wont work.

 

You can't get the 3 wire IACV to work with the euro r mani

Rosko's adapter makes the 2 wire IACV work with it.

there's also somebody that makes an adapter for a normal fuel rail, maybe powerrevracing.com or something, I forget.....

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1857171
their is a pic of it in this thread.
also look at his signature he says that he makes the adapter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't get the 3 wire IACV to work with the euro r mani

Rosko's adapter makes the 2 wire IACV work with it.

there's also somebody that makes an adapter for a normal fuel rail, maybe powerrevracing.com or something, I forget.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

O **** really ...hmm does the wiring reach ok ? Also do you have to run the coolant lines to it to work properly ?

 

Blacktrax at http://www.blacktrax.net make an adapter for a standard H22 fuel rail and IACV.

I'm running it in my Prelude. I needed to extend the IACV wires by about 8" everything works fine.

 

Ya I've seen that adapter on blacktrak as well. I was debating the Euro R but just seem like alittle more of a hassle then I want so I went with the Skunk2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes ive talked to him.

Rosko: As far as I know the only IACV that bolts to the Euro-R is the JDM 3-wire version, then you'd have to somehow wire that up to what you've got (2 wire).

So obviously it wont work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you just misunderstood me haha, I meant the 3-wire is the only one that will bolt up WITHOUT the adapter hence the need for an adapter.

 

oooo ok that makes more sense

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5genprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya I've seen that adapter on blacktrak as well. I was debating the Euro R but just seem like alittle more of a hassle then I want so I went with the Skunk2</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure whatever hassle there is in using the Euro-R manifold by far outweighs the fact that you'll lose power versus the stock manifold with the Skunk 2 IM.

 

the iac doesnt have to be functional, only pluged in. also lose the fast idle valve, the motor will idle lower while warming up but after that it runs and idles the same.

i have done several this way, no problems. you may want to check w/ presisionlite, i believe hes running the euro r w/out the iac and fast idle as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sure whatever hassle there is in using the Euro-R manifold by far outweighs the fact that you'll lose power versus the stock manifold with the Skunk 2 IM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How so? Shoot me a message and fill me in on what I don't know. Thanks.

 

i am having some issues with my idle on the euroR as well.

I am currently running the 2wire iacv w/ an adapter. I am also currently using the euroR TB which does not have a fast idle screw.

When the motor is cold it will not idle at all, but once it is warmed up it idles perfectly. I was thinking of swapping out throttle bodies with a usdm one so that i can use the screw to adjust the cold idle but I have read that others are using the euroR TB and it is working just fine. Any suggestions?

 

u can get the adapter off of ebay. i have seen it there...

 

y would u wanna risk gettin it off of ebay when a reputable guy from here sells them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5genprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How so? Shoot me a message and fill me in on what I don't know. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically, it's a poorly designed piece of junk. Even people with "extreme" bored and stroked H22s (2point6) lost power after tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rawNAprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y would u wanna risk gettin it off of ebay when a reputable guy from here sells them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe its the same guy??


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redtop22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am having some issues with my idle on the euroR as well.

I am currently running the 2wire iacv w/ an adapter. I am also currently using the euroR TB which does not have a fast idle screw.

When the motor is cold it will not idle at all, but once it is warmed up it idles perfectly. I was thinking of swapping out throttle bodies with a usdm one so that i can use the screw to adjust the cold idle but I have read that others are using the euroR TB and it is working just fine. Any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think you'd get anything else to work better than the actual tb that goes on that manifold, which you obviously have. maybe your iacv just needs cleaned?

 

a bad iac will cause a funky idle. an eliminated iac will not because theres nothing else that will change the air flow on its own. except for the fast idle, which also should be eliminated.

w/o an iac, you may notice a change in idle when sudden resistance is put on the motor such as a/c.

w/o a fast idle you will have a lower idle as the motor warms up.


w/ either of them going bad you will just have a funky idle. get rid of them and adjust the idle to your liking using the idle screw and/or the throttle plate adjustment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think you'd get anything else to work better than the actual tb that goes on that manifold, which you obviously have. maybe your iacv just needs cleaned?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've cleaned out the iacv before, but i'll give it a shot again. thx

 

try what missing gears said and just remove it, if he's right that should tell you wether thats it or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphajesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Basically, it's a poorly designed piece of junk. Even people with "extreme" bored and stroked H22s (2point6) lost power after tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha ya I just found that out on the Skunk2 thread, LoL. Shoulda done more research since I can;t even us it on my SH. Well time for a Euro R I guess. Thanks!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try what missing gears said and just remove it, if he's right that should tell you wether thats it or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you will have to remove it from the manifold but leave it pluged in and block off the holes on the manifold. also get rid of the fast idle to rule that out. and if you dont have an idle screw, than use the trottle plate adjustment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a bad iac will cause a funky idle. an eliminated iac will not because theres nothing else that will change the air flow on its own. except for the fast idle, which also should be eliminated.

w/o an iac, you may notice a change in idle when sudden resistance is put on the motor such as a/c.

w/o a fast idle you will have a lower idle as the motor warms up.


w/ either of them going bad you will just have a funky idle. get rid of them and adjust the idle to your liking using the idle screw and/or the throttle plate adjustment
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So how will the car idle at say a redlight, completely warmed up at a dead stop without heat,radio or ac on ? Without an IACV and FITV(not that it matters its warm).

 

keep in mind the computer has a sort of fast idle setting when cold....w/o an fitv my car idles at about 1500 when cold