I did a search on here, but only found four topics about traction bars, and tere were only a couple of responses. Can I use one and be ok, and not have to worry about any sub frame tear out or anything? Also, how effective are they? I get real bad wheel hop and torque steer, I know it is supposed to eliminate wheel hop, but will it help torque steer any? Thanks, guys, Ramsey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rooftop voter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I did a search on here, but only found four topics about traction bars, and tere were only a couple of responses. Can I use one and be ok, and not have to worry about any sub frame tear out or anything? Also, how effective are they? I get real bad wheel hop and torque steer, I know it is supposed to eliminate wheel hop, but will it help torque steer any? Thanks, guys, Ramsey.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use one my self and am very happy with it along with good suspension setup motor mounts and traction bar + LSD took away all the problems your talking about

As for sub frame problems never heard about anything of that nature happening because you bolt the main bar were the tow hooks are which has to be a pretty strong for obvious reasons

 

I think you're confusing a couple of different things. People have had problems in the past with rear subframes tearing out when using larger diameter sway bars. However I've had a Full Race traction bar on my car for almost 3 years now, with countless trips down the strip, as well as daily driving (even in salty Canadian weather) and have no complaints so far.

Clayton

 

One of the easiest and best upgrades you can do. I show an install on speedsceneracing.com
Lucky

 

Thanks guys for the replys, I guess it's on my list now. Anyone that you guys reccomend? What's the best for the money, I'm about to be a college student and am on a budget!

 

i've run the Full-Race traction bar setup since they came out.no problems,great product.
i installed it though to help more with alignment changes on launch and when braking.i never had wheel hop issues.
bad engine mounts,bad shocks,bad suspension bushings and bad alignment can all play a role in wheel hop.check those things out.
Chris

 

ETD racing, they are at http://www.etdracing.com
Great product, great service and the guys are racers!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rooftop voter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys for the replys, I guess it's on my list now. Anyone that you guys reccomend? What's the best for the money, I'm about to be a college student and am on a budget! </TD></TR></TABLE>


i posted a pic of one you can go full race or lakewood sumit has the lakewood ones

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedSceneScott &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ETD racing, they are at http://www.etdracing.com
Great product, great service and the guys are racers!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup... Great Product, Excellent Price, and they work!!!

 

just buy a set of traction bar from http://www.etdracing.com

 

I also have a set of ETD Racing traction bars on my EG. Quality is excellent and the bars are strong.

 

i have an older set of tracion bars made by someone off of here. ever since i put them on my car, i cannot ride in a honda without them. i just make fun of the driver, because they are wheel hopping everywhere.

traction bars generally eliminate wheel hop

limit straps eliminate pulling the front end up

stiff rear drag shocks eliminate the rear end squatting, and taking weight off of the front tires

and an LSD will help send equal power to both wheels instead of one wheel, which will help reduce tq steer.

you do drive a FWD car, and no matter what, you will still have problems launching on the street against other fully prepped RWD/AWD cars.

all of these things combined will help a lot tho

 

On the EDT traction bar, do you need to drill those two holes the plate bolts unto, or are they factory bolt holes.

 

I had bad luck with my ETD traction bar for a CRX, nearly wreck my car at the strip. They said they changed their design and did give me a full refund. I wouldnt bolt there stuff on my car again. Just my experience and 2 cents.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BIGTUNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had bad luck with my ETD traction bar for a CRX, nearly wreck my car at the strip. They said they changed their design and did give me a full refund. I wouldnt bolt there stuff on my car again. Just my experience and 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sux... I'm running low 10's with my ETD traction bars and never had an issue and don't even worry about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teamdiesel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the EDT traction bar, do you need to drill those two holes the plate bolts unto, or are they factory bolt holes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All factory bolt holes are used!

 

Some people have good luck I am one of the others that didnt, I didnt have to fight ect for a full refund which was respectable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BIGTUNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had bad luck with my ETD traction bar for a CRX, nearly wreck my car at the strip. They said they changed their design and did give me a full refund. I wouldnt bolt there stuff on my car again. Just my experience and 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sux... I'm running low 10's with my ETD traction bars and never had an issue.

 

Quick question, I was unclear if you needed your tow hooks, or if the holes were what was needed? I ditched the tow hooks when I put my turbo in.

 

IIRC you don't need the tow hooks with the ETD one. I'd email them just to be sure.

 

Z10 traction bars are nice too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rooftop voter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick question, I was unclear if you needed your tow hooks, or if the holes were what was needed? I ditched the tow hooks when I put my turbo in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teamdiesel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the ETD traction bar, do you need to drill those two holes the plate bolts unto, or are they factory bolt holes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will use the same holes and the bolts that originally held the factory tow hooks to mount the ETD traction kit. The holes are are already tapped directly into the frame rails which is a strong mounting point.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BIGTUNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had bad luck with my ETD traction bar for a CRX, nearly wreck my car at the strip. They said they changed their design and did give me a full refund. I wouldnt bolt there stuff on my car again. Just my experience and 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to hear that you had some trouble with your kit and glad to hear that you and your car are OK. Just so that everyone knows, the original traction bars that ETD was selling were made by another company, ETD was simply a dealer selling them.

In the last year or so the product has been completely redesigned, eliminating all the problems that the original bars had. The bars are now made in house at ETD and the quality has been stepped up very considerably.

 

I got mine from camp1320. best $249 i ever paid