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The Rebuild Has Begun

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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 12:15 AM
  #1  
cltitus's Avatar
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Default The Rebuild Has Begun

I been posting on and on about what i should do while without thinking i said f it and i bought a brand New head (complete) without valve cover.

So Far i have bought;
Brand New Head
Gasket Kit - Head/Block

Whats going to be done.

Import Builders;
Darton 81.25 MID Sleeves
Full Port n Polish Head/Intake Manifold(new from them)
Piston Skirt Coating
Piston Prep for Individual Cyclinder
Balanced/Blue Print Entie Motor

Castillo CrankShaft Service;
Knife Edge
Tear Drop Oil Dwells
Ion Harden


What i still need to buy;
mugen oil pan
new valve cover
new 2.9 axles
few earls lines and fittings to make everything look a little cleaner.

THIS IS THE PLAN IM STICKING TO AND NO LONGER CHANGING


Question 1
Koyo Race radiator. i already have installed came with the car. Can i still install the ac with it or will i have to get the koyo stock replacement.

Question 2
California rollers, should i get a complete smsp header + exhasut o keep with stcok header and stock exhaust. we all know how cops are these days.

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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 12:55 AM
  #2  
neo_'s Avatar
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Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (cltitus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Darton 81.25 MID Sleeves
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't get it, you can safely overbore the stock sleeves .25 over. Why are you resleeving then?
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 12:55 AM
  #3  
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Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (cltitus)

Question 2
California rollers, should i get a complete smsp header + exhasut o keep with stcok header and stock exhaust. we all know how cops are these days.
So far from your list a stock exhaust and header would seem pointless, I mean yeah there are cops, but as long as you drive not all RICER crazy and rev like a mother, it should be ok. I like the SMSP header depending on which one you get and far as a matching exhaust go with a different brand…I have a T1R, but ones from spoon, mugen, and/or hytech are nice as well!

Keep up the rebuild!
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 03:35 AM
  #4  
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Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (actionanh)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't get it, you can safely overbore the stock sleeves .25 over. Why are you resleeving then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 sounds like a waste of money to me
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 04:42 AM
  #5  
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Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (cltitus)

why would you buy a brand new head when you are going to have it ported/polished/etc. you could have saved a bunch of money using your stock head or buying a used b16a one.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:41 AM
  #6  
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Default

I agree with neo's question, why are you sleeving for near stock bore? Screw that, bore that bitch out to 85mm with 12:1CR.

If you're only going with .25 over, just keep stock sleeves... That'll save you... Uhhhh, $1,200 or so.

And as previously stated, buying a brand new Type-R casting to have ported, is silly. B16 castings are the same PR3 castings, and since it's being ported, it will be the same as the Type-R casting.

That's my advice, Clitus.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:53 AM
  #7  
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Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (cltitus)

Perhaps I missed it - why does the motor need to be rebuilt?
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 05:58 AM
  #8  
rizen's Avatar
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From: FL
Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (neo_)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't get it, you can safely overbore the stock sleeves .25 over. Why are you resleeving then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not only that, but why go from open deck to closed deck using the MID kit?
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 06:06 AM
  #9  
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From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (cltitus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I been posting on and on about what i should do while without thinking i said f it and i bought a brand New head (complete) without valve cover.

So Far i have bought;
Brand New Head
Gasket Kit - Head/Block

Whats going to be done.

Import Builders;
Darton 81.25 MID Sleeves
Full Port n Polish Head/Intake Manifold(new from them)
Piston Skirt Coating
Piston Prep for Individual Cyclinder
Balanced/Blue Print Entie Motor

Castillo CrankShaft Service;
Knife Edge
Tear Drop Oil Dwells
Ion Harden


What i still need to buy;
mugen oil pan
new valve cover
new 2.9 axles
few earls lines and fittings to make everything look a little cleaner.

THIS IS THE PLAN IM STICKING TO AND NO LONGER CHANGING


Question 1
Koyo Race radiator. i already have installed came with the car. Can i still install the ac with it or will i have to get the koyo stock replacement.

Question 2
California rollers, should i get a complete smsp header + exhasut o keep with stcok header and stock exhaust. we all know how cops are these days.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok,

A-Knife Edge - If you plan on driving this motor on the street, i would not knife edge the crank. Trust me on this one, the life of the motor is significantly going to change. you need that counterweight there. Especially because i do not see a harmonic dampner on there.

2- Sleeves - Anything under 82mm is safe to bore on stock sleeves. If you have a cracked block or something, thats understandable then.

3- Oil Pan - I'd look into having baffles welded into yours. I dont think the Mugen one is worth how much they want. Get the weld in piece.

4 - I see all the basis for a good build, but i dont see what pistons/rods. I dont see cams/springs/ret/gears on there. I dont see fuel or management (but just assume those are not listed because this is the motor build info)


I think you need to decide on a budget goal or moreso a power goal. Are you ever going to make this setup full race? Or Turbo or something of the sort? If not, i do not feel sleeving is necessary. Save your money as they say. Having Dartons isnt going to save your motor if something catastropic happens.

Good luck.
-Francisco
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 06:36 AM
  #10  
Doespike's Avatar
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Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (Mugen Mike)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps I missed it - why does the motor need to be rebuilt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
How many miles on heR? She seemed pretty young and clean....
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 08:04 AM
  #11  
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Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (Doespike)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doespike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How many miles on heR? She seemed pretty young and clean....</TD></TR></TABLE>

now sitting at 110,000 something.

RPRacing

Knife Edge, i think ill take your advise on the edge and keep the counterweight. it has a ati damper on it already though.

Sleeves is for add protect and if i want to turbo charge it later i wont have the hassel with it.(i will only turbo if i dont get my friends 91 dx)

If i could weld i would do a weld in piece.

Pistons i have changed my mind and going with Forged CP 12.5:1 and import builders H beam rods. the Head is staying completely stock.

Engine managment i already have set for hondata s300 just so that i can get into tuning myself.

crxgator

due to the new head is that the previsious owner kept the exterior in wonderful shape but i think he did a **** poor job on the motor. when it was getting smoged for registaration dad switch from spoon header to oem header and catalyst converter. head bolts where seezed on the studs. after getting it back from the machine shop to get the header off 4 of the studs are loose and 2 others are cracked. i highly dought the shop did it we have used them before and never had any problem with them.

i think i covered all the questions
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 08:08 AM
  #12  
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Default

sounds good. good luck with the build. let me know if you need anything
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 10:29 AM
  #13  
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Default Re: (RPRacing)

don't buy the mugen oil pan, just modify ur stock, same thing. Unless u are going for a hi-capacity oil pan.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #14  
neo_'s Avatar
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From: South Florida
Default Re: The Rebuild Has Begun (cltitus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sleeves is for add protect and if i want to turbo charge it later

Pistons i have changed my mind and going with Forged CP 12.5:1
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see a problem there with 12.5:1 CR and boost.

Oh, and Darton MID sleeves can very easily handle over 81.25 bore, get your moneys worth and bore it to at least an 83 if not 84.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 03:38 AM
  #15  
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neo_

12.5 is for when im running NA i would replace them with 9 or 10 when i went boosted.
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