06-07 accords
so i posted awhile ago about the 03-05 coupes and now it turns out that i can get a loan and im thinkin bout gettin a 06-07 coupe. now im new to accords and well i wanted the opinions of all you accord experts, like what is the difference between the two models engine and transmission wise, im getting the v6 so are there any diff between the two engines like more power... and are they both 6 spd manual, is the gearing any different? another question is there an oem lip kit for the 06-07 b/c i couldnt find it on HandAaccessories.com, does the 03-05 fit the same, and do the 06-07 come in nighthawk black pearl? ok last question until i can think of more, is it me or does it look like the 06-07 coupes got smaller altogether in comparison to the 03-05 coupes? so all in all which is a better buy/car the 06-07 or the 03-05, v6 6spd coupe?
thnx in advance, this forum is always very helpful!
thnx in advance, this forum is always very helpful!
To answer your questions, just letting you know, the v6 series is good but as i seen and read about people who owned one, performance parts are limited. People prefer to get the I4 or known as the K24 series. Much more people prefer it because its known to be a better powerplant if built correctly. Another reason with the transmission is that the 6spd manual has some type of grinding problem. I read about this on another post in this forum. You can search for it i forgot the title. The differences between the two models is that one is K24A and the other is a J30A. For the oem lip kit, im not sure of this because i havent checked out the body line for the two, but im a thinking that the 06+ will fit the 03+. As for nighthawk pearl, you can check for that on http://www.honda.com and click on build you car. If i were you i would buy the 03-05, because its cheaper, but the 06+ looks nice, but more expensive brand new. Also, i prefer the K24, but thats my opinion. Think it over. Your decision is what counts. I own an 03 EX Coupe K24.
yea i know the 4cyl would be better to build but im not going to be doing any major modding so i want the most poower i can get from stock, only thing i will be doing is basic bolt ons. but yea htnx for the info didnt know the transmission grinds.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brown-tec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... like what is the difference between the two models engine and transmission wise, im getting the v6 so are there any diff between the two engines like more power... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda changed the rating system between the 2005 and 2006 model years. The 2006 and 2007 V6 J30 motors as provided in the Accord coupe are rated at 245 (Honda) Net HP, which is the equivalent of 258 SAE Net Hp as it would have been quoted in 2005.
So, yes, the 2006 and 2007 models are more powerful.
The secondary intakes open at 4000 and it's an old fashioned VTEC that comes on the cam at 5000. All out, it provides startlingly brisk acceleration, but on the other hand if you keep your shifting below 4000 you can accelerate fairly quickly and still average 30 miles per gallon.
From personal experience.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...is there an oem lip kit for the 06-07 b/c i couldnt find it on HandAaccessories.com, does the 03-05 fit the same,</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the front HFP lip for a 2005 will not fit the facelift cars.
There are HFP lips available for the 2006 and 2007 cars.
iServe does not seem to be working very well right now. When it is, though, you can click on My Gallery under my name and see pictures of my 2006 6-6 HFP Coupe. It has the lip you were asking about and the 17x8 6-6 wheels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and do the 06-07 come in nighthawk black pearl?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, they do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ok last question until i can think of more, is it me or does it look like the 06-07 coupes got smaller altogether in comparison to the 03-05 coupes?[quote]
The subtlety of the 2006 facelift probably achieves that net visual effect, but they are basically the same size. The Coupe is a smaller wheelbase than the sedan, though. If you were comparing an old sedan to a new coupe, the coupe will clearly be smaller.
[quote] so all in all which is a better buy/car the 06-07 or the 03-05, v6 6spd coupe? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure what you mean by "better" buy. You will lose less money the next two years by buying a 2003-2005 model.
However, the 2006 models do look better, most people think, and have a number of small improvements that some people like very much. The 6-6 models in both sedan and coupe have revised suspension bushings and a unique suspension, for example.
But if you buy a new car you are going to lose thousands the day after you've signed on the dotted line...no way around that.
IMHO, you should not buy a new car unless you are going to be holding onto it for five or six years.
Honda changed the rating system between the 2005 and 2006 model years. The 2006 and 2007 V6 J30 motors as provided in the Accord coupe are rated at 245 (Honda) Net HP, which is the equivalent of 258 SAE Net Hp as it would have been quoted in 2005.
So, yes, the 2006 and 2007 models are more powerful.
The secondary intakes open at 4000 and it's an old fashioned VTEC that comes on the cam at 5000. All out, it provides startlingly brisk acceleration, but on the other hand if you keep your shifting below 4000 you can accelerate fairly quickly and still average 30 miles per gallon.
From personal experience.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...is there an oem lip kit for the 06-07 b/c i couldnt find it on HandAaccessories.com, does the 03-05 fit the same,</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, the front HFP lip for a 2005 will not fit the facelift cars.
There are HFP lips available for the 2006 and 2007 cars.
iServe does not seem to be working very well right now. When it is, though, you can click on My Gallery under my name and see pictures of my 2006 6-6 HFP Coupe. It has the lip you were asking about and the 17x8 6-6 wheels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and do the 06-07 come in nighthawk black pearl?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, they do.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ok last question until i can think of more, is it me or does it look like the 06-07 coupes got smaller altogether in comparison to the 03-05 coupes?[quote]
The subtlety of the 2006 facelift probably achieves that net visual effect, but they are basically the same size. The Coupe is a smaller wheelbase than the sedan, though. If you were comparing an old sedan to a new coupe, the coupe will clearly be smaller.
[quote] so all in all which is a better buy/car the 06-07 or the 03-05, v6 6spd coupe? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure what you mean by "better" buy. You will lose less money the next two years by buying a 2003-2005 model.
However, the 2006 models do look better, most people think, and have a number of small improvements that some people like very much. The 6-6 models in both sedan and coupe have revised suspension bushings and a unique suspension, for example.
But if you buy a new car you are going to lose thousands the day after you've signed on the dotted line...no way around that.
IMHO, you should not buy a new car unless you are going to be holding onto it for five or six years.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Made In Japan. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another reason with the transmission is that the 6spd manual has some type of grinding problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a warranty notice about this from Honda. It's not really a grind in that you're not defeating the syncros, it's more like people are trying to force shift when the transmission is cold and/or they're shifting less than decisively when the gearbox is warmed up!
The old way of fixing this in dealerships that could document the difficulty was to adjust the cables under warranty to give a better and less balky engagement of third gear. It's third gear that's the biggest problem.
The <u>new</u> way of fixing this now that Honda has made an official statement about it is to switch to a new Honda MTF-FM the first time you change the oil in the gearbox, around 30,000 miles.
Honda had never wanted to do this in the past because part of the attractiveness of owning a Honda is your ability to own it and maintain it cheaply.
The new friction modified MTF is about $9.00US/quart...which is a lot more than Honda would want to charge for that kind of thing.
However, in the end, they decided that it would be better to soften the gearboxes of the enthusiastic drivers rather than listen to the complaints.
There is a warranty notice about this from Honda. It's not really a grind in that you're not defeating the syncros, it's more like people are trying to force shift when the transmission is cold and/or they're shifting less than decisively when the gearbox is warmed up!
The old way of fixing this in dealerships that could document the difficulty was to adjust the cables under warranty to give a better and less balky engagement of third gear. It's third gear that's the biggest problem.
The <u>new</u> way of fixing this now that Honda has made an official statement about it is to switch to a new Honda MTF-FM the first time you change the oil in the gearbox, around 30,000 miles.
Honda had never wanted to do this in the past because part of the attractiveness of owning a Honda is your ability to own it and maintain it cheaply.
The new friction modified MTF is about $9.00US/quart...which is a lot more than Honda would want to charge for that kind of thing.
However, in the end, they decided that it would be better to soften the gearboxes of the enthusiastic drivers rather than listen to the complaints.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a warranty notice about this from Honda. It's not really a grind in that you're not defeating the syncros, it's more like people are trying to force shift when the transmission is cold and/or they're shifting less than decisively when the gearbox is warmed up!
The old way of fixing this in dealerships that could document the difficulty was to adjust the cables under warranty to give a better and less balky engagement of third gear. It's third gear that's the biggest problem.
The <u>new</u> way of fixing this now that Honda has made an official statement about it is to switch to a new Honda MTF-FM the first time you change the oil in the gearbox, around 30,000 miles.
Honda had never wanted to do this in the past because part of the attractiveness of owning a Honda is your ability to own it and maintain it cheaply.
The new friction modified MTF is about $9.00US/quart...which is a lot more than Honda would want to charge for that kind of thing.
However, in the end, they decided that it would be better to soften the gearboxes of the enthusiastic drivers rather than listen to the complaints.
</TD></TR></TABLE>My transmission is mostly fine but sometimes it is hard to put it into 3rd gear. Not grinding or anything just you have to push hard and it will go into it. I only really notice this with 3rd gear. Being that it's still under warrenty is it something I should take it in or is it something that I should just leave alone? It's not bad at all so I had a feeling if I take it in they'd say it was normal.
The old way of fixing this in dealerships that could document the difficulty was to adjust the cables under warranty to give a better and less balky engagement of third gear. It's third gear that's the biggest problem.
The <u>new</u> way of fixing this now that Honda has made an official statement about it is to switch to a new Honda MTF-FM the first time you change the oil in the gearbox, around 30,000 miles.
Honda had never wanted to do this in the past because part of the attractiveness of owning a Honda is your ability to own it and maintain it cheaply.
The new friction modified MTF is about $9.00US/quart...which is a lot more than Honda would want to charge for that kind of thing.
However, in the end, they decided that it would be better to soften the gearboxes of the enthusiastic drivers rather than listen to the complaints.
</TD></TR></TABLE>My transmission is mostly fine but sometimes it is hard to put it into 3rd gear. Not grinding or anything just you have to push hard and it will go into it. I only really notice this with 3rd gear. Being that it's still under warrenty is it something I should take it in or is it something that I should just leave alone? It's not bad at all so I had a feeling if I take it in they'd say it was normal.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My transmission is mostly fine but sometimes it is hard to put it into 3rd gear. Not grinding or anything just you have to push hard and it will go into it. I only really notice this with 3rd gear. Being that it's still under warrenty is it something I should take it in or is it something that I should just leave alone? It's not bad at all so I had a feeling if I take it in they'd say it was normal. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They won't say it's normal because Honda has issued an official statement about it.
The first thing they'll want to do (probably) is make you buy some of the 9.00/quart friction modified MTF! Maybe they'll pay for it for you.
They won't say it's normal because Honda has issued an official statement about it.

The first thing they'll want to do (probably) is make you buy some of the 9.00/quart friction modified MTF! Maybe they'll pay for it for you.
thnk you for all your help everyone! the pix were awesome! that car is hella clean, and i will be keeping the car for about 5to 6 years so im probably goin to buy it new or fairly new. so to conclude, lol, the 06-07 v6 coupes are faster, the engine is more powerful, it comes in night hawk black pearl, does have a lip kit, and the transmssion is not that big of a deal.... well thank you again for all the help, and if anyone knows anything more it will be appreciated!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rims are from an Acrua TL</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. For some reason TL purchasers will frequently want aftermarket wheels within a short time of buying their TL.
This floods the market with very, very nice 17x8 +45 wheels which, when shod with 235-45-17, fill out the G7 fender wheels very nicely.
The wheels in that picture only cost $400!
The "H" off of your OEM 6-6 wheels will fit the TL wheels, then you can put the TL "A" on the Honda wheels and sell them to an early TL-S owner, since they are the same.
The OEM wheels on even the 6-6 Coupe are 17x6. Too narrow.
Yup. For some reason TL purchasers will frequently want aftermarket wheels within a short time of buying their TL.
This floods the market with very, very nice 17x8 +45 wheels which, when shod with 235-45-17, fill out the G7 fender wheels very nicely.
The wheels in that picture only cost $400!
The "H" off of your OEM 6-6 wheels will fit the TL wheels, then you can put the TL "A" on the Honda wheels and sell them to an early TL-S owner, since they are the same.

The OEM wheels on even the 6-6 Coupe are 17x6. Too narrow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn $400 isn't bad at all. Was that with or without tires? </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL... Without tyres.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Still not bad and they look good. They are a direct bolt up correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. The offset is the maximum you'd want, and the 235-45-17 tyres are probably the widest you want.
LOL... Without tyres.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Still not bad and they look good. They are a direct bolt up correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. The offset is the maximum you'd want, and the 235-45-17 tyres are probably the widest you want.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One question. Can you turn the traction control off, on the 06-07 models with stability control?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you can turn it off. However, you'd want to turn it off in only the rarest of circumstances.
Yes, you can turn it off. However, you'd want to turn it off in only the rarest of circumstances.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, you can turn it off. However, you'd want to turn it off in only the rarest of circumstances.</TD></TR></TABLE>As he said you can turn it off. It will still spin the tires with it on anyway fairly easily though. The light will just start flashing on the dash. If you turn it off you can really fry the tires. Other than playing around once or twice I just leave it on.
The reason I asked is because one of the car testing mags reported that the 06 Accord had a slower 1/4 mile time than the 03 model, because the 03 model had the traction control off, and apparently wheel-spin helped the times. Don't know why they didn't turn it off on the 06 model, they didn't explain. So I had to ask. Thanks for clearing that up.
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