I have searched and could not find much info on this.here is my question i am trying to run a msd crank trigger kit on my obd1 hatch im running a built turbo gsr using aem for managment.im trying to figure out what steps nneed to be taken as far as the dist. goes and how it differs from the t1 kit as far as instalation.do I still need to go in the aem box etc.etc. any help on this topic would be greatly helpful

 

just get the T1 trigger she'll be perfect

 

i have no doubt in my mind that is the way to go but i cant afford it right now so until then this is all i have to work with so any help on my topic would be very helpful.

 

You'll need both the crank trigger, and some sort of cam trigger, can't do full sequential operation with just that crank trigger.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brent L &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get the T1 trigger she'll be perfect</TD></TR></TABLE>
the msd wil not work with out tdc

 

o.k what was i thinking, i have spent this much money why would i do anything other than a t1 kit.

 

damnit tommy you never listen to me haha. i have to order a t1 kit next week for a customer you should order yours along with this one

 

yeah i know i guess it was the miller light(im a budlight kinda guy)telling me to go and do something stupid.order me one and i will drop off my turd missle so we can put down some numbers.

 

Can you guys reccomend a place where i can find the t1 trigger kit. thanx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cali4niaEk9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you guys reccomend a place where i can find the t1 trigger kit. thanx </TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com
214-607-9022

T1 Race Development
5121 Grisham Drive
Suite A
Rowlett, TX 75088

 

dude don't give it any thought like i did just order the t1 kit(thanks joe order has been placed)and thanks tony im sure this is the way to go

 

The T1 trigger will be the best option for you with what you are wanting to do.. And if you ask Tony nicely, he might grind off the T1 logo off of it for you

 

grind off the logo? what r you tryinh to say

 

if you cant afford a t1 kit then just grab a pile of oem distributors and find one that works... the stock stuff works good as long as it works. if you dont see any break up in the t2per (or t4per on a 1010box) and cam-crank then what you have is fine. the msd distributor also outputs a very clean signal thats almost as good as the t1 kit.

 

im going to make a new rule........no stock distributor AEM cars on my dyno!! haha


when the stock ones work they seem to work OK. but i dont have time to change distributors 75 times during one dyno session....its just not worth it!

when there is obviously a very common distributor problem....i dont know about you guys but i dont want to roll the dice and "hope" mine works forever. imagine traveling to an event just to find out yours crapps out after you found the one out of 44 distributors that actually works!

 

i usually dont have em crap out... about 90% of the time they work or they dont. but the simplest solution is the MSD dizzy, no modifications of the ems needed, no wiring, plug it in and go

 

installing the T1 kit is about as simple as swapping to a msd distributor lol.

ive personally seen 4 or 5 msd distributors fail at the track.

 

yeah I have seen alot of people getting rid of the msd dist.makes me wonder?but thanks for the replies everybody

 

yeah, idk... we have installed a good 20-25 msd dizzys in the last couple months and not had any problems.

but yeah, the install of the t1 kit isnt hard at all, you just gota wire it up and if you dont have a new ems its a slight pita to modify the board to work with it...

t1 kit ftw

 

The mod on the older box is easy, just throw it in a box and send it to me. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The mod on the older box is easy, just throw it in a box and send it to me. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, but if im too lazy to do it myself do you think im gona find a box and find a shipping label and find ups.. hahah

 

I don't know why poeple are on a non distributor kick but I've ran stock **** to 10,000 rpm with no prob. One dist for two years. We even knocked teeth off the triggers inside with an air hammer, lol. Just gotta keep an eye on the cap and rotor, a rotor out of a stock car that doesn't look that bad will break up at high rpm. The high power ignition systems where them out fast. But what ever if it wasn't a hall sensor bandwagon it would be something else. Not that the T1 kit isn't sweet.

 

You can run the stock distributor with the T1 kit. I have to, I have a single channel ignition box.

 

that what im doing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to make a new rule........no stock distributor AEM cars on my dyno!! haha

when the stock ones work they seem to work OK. but i dont have time to change distributors 75 times during one dyno session....its just not worth it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

question for ya joe, on those cars with the OEM distributors, what are they using for spark plugs?

R5671A's?

if so, thats your problem right there

resistor plugs
non-resistor plugs