Is this kit will support for a while 200+whp with a lot of drag racing??? Or i should buy myself a stage 2 right away

Thanks

 

I have always heard the Stage 1 (not the stock replacement) should hold around 150-160 lb-ft of torqu--defintatley enough for 200 whp. I talked to a number of people with 200 whp plus that had no problems with the stage 1. I have a stage 2 cerametallic (thin) 3 puck on my sohc si cable trans. At first it chattered like hell and was heavier than it is now--with about 1500 miles on it, it smoothed out noticeably but its still not what I would want on a daily driver.

I bought a stage 1 Exedy organic but never installed it, but I hear its pretty smooth--even in the cable version.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have always heard the Stage 1 (not the stock replacement) should hold around 150-160 lb-ft of torqu--defintatley enough for 200 whp. I talked to a number of people with 200 whp plus that had no problems with the stage 1. I have a stage 2 cerametallic (thin) 3 puck on my sohc si cable trans. At first it chattered like hell and was heavier than it is now--with about 1500 miles on it, it smoothed out noticeably but its still not what I would want on a daily driver.

I bought a stage 1 Exedy organic but never installed it, but I hear its pretty smooth--even in the cable version.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks!!! Ill see what it does at the track!!! Its really the stage 1 not the OEM replacement one...ive been using a SIR cable clutch disk since december with 180whp and it runs nice...i would assume that the stage 1 would hold with my ~220whp built

 

I've seen an exedy hold 310whp on a boosted b16 w/ a cable ls trans on the dyno. ITR flywheel and it was 5k miles old before the boost. Driver was a maniac that didn't know how to drive "civilized."

If you had a heavier car I would say a stg 2 would be the way to go but in an ef for the street you will like the stg 1 better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift4jesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen an exedy hold 310whp on a boosted b16 w/ a cable ls trans on the dyno. ITR flywheel and it was 5k miles old before the boost. Driver was a maniac that didn't know how to drive "civilized."

If you had a heavier car I would say a stg 2 would be the way to go but in an ef for the street you will like the stg 1 better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a DA9 integra...ill try the stage 1 first to see...should i put the 8lbs exedy flywheel or keep my OEM ITR one???

 

I have had my exedy stage 1 clutch in my DA for about 12k miles now and it still holds pretty good. It definatly is stiffer than stock, but you can feel it hold on stronger. I installed it with the ACT 12lb flywheel which is about how much an ITR flywheel weighs.

The only problem I have with my entire drivetrain that drives me nuts is my clutch pedal squeeking because of the clutch cable!!! I just replaced it 500miles ago and it has been SMOOTH, but now the squeeking is back and I don't have the reciept(sp) anymore!

If anyone has any help or solution to this, PLEASE HELP!

 

I can almost guarentee its not your clutch cable that is squeaking--its the pedal bracketry. On cable cars like the DA and EF with heavy clutches they put a lot of stress on the pivot point of the clutch pedal--eventually leading to breakage. I have had one break on me before so I replaced it, another one was squeaking and flexing a large amount and would have broken but I welded a support bracket on the pedal linkage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can almost guarentee its not your clutch cable that is squeaking--its the pedal bracketry. On cable cars like the DA and EF with heavy clutches they put a lot of stress on the pivot point of the clutch pedal--eventually leading to breakage. I have had one break on me before so I replaced it, another one was squeaking and flexing a large amount and would have broken but I welded a support bracket on the pedal linkage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how hard is it to replace the pedal bracketry? and how much would it cost for all the parts ?

 

Ive been running the same Exedy stage 1 clutch in my car for almost 6yrs. Its been through alot of abuse and its still going strong. I was boosted for around 9 months and was making 186ft/lbs and it held perfect. The clutch has probably 125-150 hard launches on it(most at the track wtih sticky tires) and it hasnt faultered yet. When its really cold outside(35deg and below) it will slip a tiny bit until it gets warmed up. All in all its been a great clutch, and the only part on my car that hasnt given me problems

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redDAinteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how hard is it to replace the pedal bracketry? and how much would it cost for all the parts ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the DA is anything like the EF then it isnt too hard, but it is a little time consuming. When i did mine i took out the seat to make it easier to drop the steering column and get to the pedal bracket. It took me around 2 1/2hrs to do it myself, and thats with alot of extra stuff(cleaning and re-greasing steering rack, welding extra support on bracket, etc). It might take a little longer depending on if youve done it before or not

 

this is the best clutch i ever had i run it i beat that thing with 7800rpm-8000 launches and it never slipped, stage 1 is a great clutch and its easy on the drivetrain

 

is it bad if you have a stage 1 clutch but aint makin 190whp and up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goldenhatch13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it bad if you have a stage 1 clutch but aint makin 190whp and up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not at all. the stage 1 is just a killer clutch for stock or, as some of said, 300whp motors. i suspect the tires that 300whp car was on are why the clutch lived. 300whp and nitto nt01's i would have my doubts about. at stockish power levels the only concern about the stage 1 is if you want to pay $300 versus $100 for an OE replacement level.